Planting Apple Trees

[TomSeller]

Surprisingly, no. Even after abandoning the nasty stuff and going Certified Organic. (Maybe the century's worth of pesticides residue is still out there).

It is mostly fungal pathogens from the rotting roots of the old trees. It is not something a pesticide would do anything about. What root stock are your new trees on?

 

[California]

It is mostly fungal pathogens from the rotting roots of the old trees. It is not something a pesticide would do anything about. What root stock are your new trees on?

I should know the root stock but I don't. The orchard is operated by a neighbor together with his larger operation and he bought full-size traditional Gravenstein for the 2012 replacements. He and his crew do the major phases - discing, mass planting, annual pruning, harvest, etc. I dig out stumps, water new trees etc.


Here is a link to UC Davis school of ag publications describing local apple growing:
Within that list, download the pdfs titled:
coststudies.ucdavis.edu/files/94appsprk.pdf‎
coststudies.ucdavis.edu/files/94appdry.pdf‎

These studies describe in detail 'best practices' that several of my neighbors described to the researchers.

I try to dig out every trace of the old stump and roots, and make sure the earth that was nearest the stump isn't near the planting spot when I'm done digging. This seems to avoid fungal infection of the new trees.

 

[TomSeller]

I should know the root stock but I don't. The orchard is operated by a neighbor together with his larger operation and he bought full-size traditional Gravenstein for the 2012 replacements. He and his crew do the major phases - discing, mass planting, annual pruning, harvest, etc. I dig out stumps, water new trees etc.

Here is a link to UC Davis school of ag publications describing local apple growing:
Within that list, download the pdfs titled:
coststudies.ucdavis.edu/files/94appsprk.pdf‎
coststudies.ucdavis.edu/files/94appdry.pdf‎

These studies describe in detail 'best practices' that several of my neighbors described to the researchers.

I try to dig out every trace of the old stump and roots, and make sure the earth that was nearest the stump isn't near the planting spot when I'm done digging. This seems to avoid fungal infection of the new trees.

Interesting. I am grafting from trees planted by ancestors in the 1970s and still hanging on. Some are Gravensteins. I am also grafting onto onto full size root stock that I grow from Russisn Antonovka seed

 

[Docwho]

I planted 12 tree's 15 yrs ago and lost 8 to deer chewing them off. So I started using concrete reinforcing wire. This works well.
If you cut wire on edge's you can hook the wire in a hoop to the other side. In the last few years I have planted more trees and found that I no longer need to put large protection around them. (I think because there are a lot less deer). I plant semi dwarf trees at 20' apart.

 

[ArtMech]

I've lost 2 apple trees to the storm last year, which I planted 6 years ago. Take care from this point of view.

 

[woodlandfarms]

We have a small orchard. 15 old stock trees (gravenstein it appears) and a dozen new stock trees, a mix from cherry to new apple brands and some pears. I think we are going to put in another 4 trees and call it quits for the orchard. WAY too much maintenance.

This all said, when we went to buy our trees at the local nursery, I asked for normal apple trees, not dwarf or semi dwarf. Thought the sales people head would spin off. We can't get that, not sure it exists. Now I have some semi dwarf.. whatever...

Oh, as for digging we have clay soil and for most every planting I do I use my 12" post hole. Yeah, a 30 or 36 would be ideal but I have yet to loose a tree with the 12. Roots gotta move through that hard soil without my help....