I was under the impression this was an interim tier IV machine without any of that garbage.
I am not sure what is on that particular engine, but as a blanket statement "If anything regular fuel is 100% better for your machine" could cause someone who buys a newer version of that tractor significant grief. Hence my statement that "if your engine has an emissions system on the exhaust (EGR, DPF, Catalytic Converter, DEF, etc) running anything but ULSD can be a very expensive mistake"
And what is Fred's mistake?
I am not sure, I do know that going from 2500 PSI to 3000 PSI at 10GPM raises the HP needed for the hydraulics from 17HP to 21HP (to push 10GPM at those pressures per the
Surplus Center calculator) and if you are already using 20HP to move the tractor, adding another 20HP from deadheading the hydraulics will be problematic on a 40HP engine.
I think part of MY problem concerning power loss when I use hydraulics is the shimming of the valve to 3000 psi.
Removing the shim will be one of my tests once I get it running again.
Should be an interesting comparison.
Before you pull the shim, I might try deadheading the rear remote to see how much of a change it makes compared to deadheading the loader valve while watching system pressures with a gauge (IIRC, they have different relief valves)...
So another question, IF I ruin the engine/trans/whatever and the warranty is void will my insurance cover the damage? They DO insure stupidity right? Would be no different if I ran the tractor into a lake or lit it one fire or????????????
Right?
Fred
Maybe... I would read what your insurance contract says about intentional acts damaging the tractor and coverage for modifications breaking things. If you want an authoritative answer, send a PM to the user KTAC, that is someone from Kubota Corporate who deals with KTAC insurance.
Aaron Z