I Still Hate My Tractor

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   / I Still Hate My Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#291  
I think part of MY problem concerning power loss when I use hydraulics is the shimming of the valve to 3000 psi.
Removing the shim will be one of my tests once I get it running again.

So another question, IF I ruin the engine/trans/whatever and the warranty is void will my insurance cover the damage? They DO insure stupidity right? Would be no different if I ran the tractor into a lake or lit it one fire or????????????

Right?

Fred
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #292  
How do you adjust hydro pressure? I need to do that.

Kubota sells a shim kit for the relief valve or you can use #8 or #10 flat washers from the hardware store. Need a 3000 PSI gauge so you know where you set it, don't just add a shim to increase it.
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #293  
How it came about can be debated, but if your engine has an emissions system on the exhaust (EGR, DPF, Catalytic Converter, DEF, etc) running anything but ULSD can be a very expensive mistake...

Aaron Z

I was under the impression this was an interim tier IV machine without any of that garbage.

Kubota sells a shim kit for the relief valve or you can use #8 or #10 flat washers from the hardware store. Need a 3000 PSI gauge so you know where you set it, don't just add a shim to increase it.

10-4 thanks man, I'll snag a guage. Is there a how-to anywhere? I have no idea where the relief valve would be located. A picture would be worth a billion words.
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #294  
I was under the impression this was an interim tier IV machine without any of that garbage.
I am not sure what is on that particular engine, but as a blanket statement "If anything regular fuel is 100% better for your machine" could cause someone who buys a newer version of that tractor significant grief. Hence my statement that "if your engine has an emissions system on the exhaust (EGR, DPF, Catalytic Converter, DEF, etc) running anything but ULSD can be a very expensive mistake"

And what is Fred's mistake?
I am not sure, I do know that going from 2500 PSI to 3000 PSI at 10GPM raises the HP needed for the hydraulics from 17HP to 21HP (to push 10GPM at those pressures per the Surplus Center calculator) and if you are already using 20HP to move the tractor, adding another 20HP from deadheading the hydraulics will be problematic on a 40HP engine.

I think part of MY problem concerning power loss when I use hydraulics is the shimming of the valve to 3000 psi.
Removing the shim will be one of my tests once I get it running again.
Should be an interesting comparison.
Before you pull the shim, I might try deadheading the rear remote to see how much of a change it makes compared to deadheading the loader valve while watching system pressures with a gauge (IIRC, they have different relief valves)...

So another question, IF I ruin the engine/trans/whatever and the warranty is void will my insurance cover the damage? They DO insure stupidity right? Would be no different if I ran the tractor into a lake or lit it one fire or????????????
Right?
Fred
Maybe... I would read what your insurance contract says about intentional acts damaging the tractor and coverage for modifications breaking things. If you want an authoritative answer, send a PM to the user KTAC, that is someone from Kubota Corporate who deals with KTAC insurance.

Aaron Z
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #295  
I was under the impression this was an interim tier IV machine without any of that garbage.



10-4 thanks man, I'll snag a guage. Is there a how-to anywhere? I have no idea where the relief valve would be located. A picture would be worth a billion words.

Here is a thread with lots of good info.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...260625-how-increase-loader-lift-capacity.html

Search for terms like "relief valve" "pressure increase" "hydraulic pressure" there are several threads

Sorry about the hijack...back to turbos
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #296  
Insurance might cover operator error like running into a lake and such, modding with a turbo might get kicked due to the intent of changing the engine from stock; the insurance covers what you bought, not so much what you want to turn it into. There are all kinds of ways for them to kick a claim to the curb.
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#297  
Thought the question would breed more hatred toward the Fredster. Always thinking out of the box.

Fred
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #298  
Thought the question would breed more hatred toward the Fredster. Always thinking out of the box.

Fred

No one hates the Fredster.
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #299  
The Insurance co. would probably look at modifications the same as they look at arson by the owner - denied.
 
   / I Still Hate My Tractor #300  
Fred, glad to see you still posting on this topic. I am not able to help you as your well beyond my level of tinkering currently but I'm reading and learning and hope you get your machine to where you are happy with it. It is very frustrating buying a tractor and not being satisfied. Not everyone understands that there may not be a better alternative other than trying to make it work.

Kubota makes some great tractors but their not all perfect. My girlfriends bx is a great machine and I enjoy using it but I dislike my m series and have very few options to replace it currently. I'm working with it to make it better suited for my use but Kubota has a lot of fans that take any negative comment personally which leads to hostilities. I wish you the best and hopefully you are able to get your tractor to perform to your expectations.
 
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