Adjusting my valves?

[SnowRidge]

The longer fuel line gives the gasoline more time to cook in the tub's oven, which of course raises its temperature closer to its boiling point.

One solution is to add a side fan to force cool(er) air into the engine compartment. Someone has done that with great success. I am presently having a senior moment, to which I am legally entitled, and can't quite remember who it was.

 

[Rivco]

I could be wrong... but I think it was Phils that added a side fan and new exhaust. I think he also re-located his fuel pump??
I know this heat issue has been beat to death but IMHO all the problems stem from the poorly engineered PT exhaust system!!, That's why I converted over to a dual exhaust system. After I did that conversion.. the heat, run on, vapor lock, etc, etc,... was no longer an issue.

 

[Central_PA_Chris]

Well, valves were in adjustment. Then they mowed with it for a hour (it was a cool day up here too) and they felt the hydro issues after a 1/2 hour or less, no oil spit back into the air filter, soooo going to let the engine issue go for a bit and move on to the hydraulic issues. Shop still has it and is going to try a item or two that Terry suggested to them. If that fails, maybe a hydraulic shop, I'll be up by Wayne_County_Hose Wed, maybe I'll drag it up to him and let a member here take a crack at it.

 

[pairodime]

oops!

I looked in a different spot on the site and found the reference to fixing my problem.

Thanks Robin for putting the information up on the site in such an easy spot that I missed it!

I've got to change those glasses..!

Service manual calls to check valve clearances every 500 hours. Probably would have been prudent to have done that after the initial 20 hours break-in period instead of waiting so long. Guess I better get busy.

The service manual says to rotate the crank shaft to top dead center before adjusting the valve clearnces......What technique do you use to turn the crank shaft? I'm not even sure I can find the alignment marks on the flywheel.

I had the "oil in the air filter" problem and checked my rocker arms and found 3 of 4 loose. Can you just tighten them without finding top dead center?

Thanks

 

[J_J]

The service manual says to rotate the crank shaft to top dead center before adjusting the valve clearnces......What technique do you use to turn the crank shaft? I'm not even sure I can find the alignment marks on the flywheel.

I had the "oil in the air filter" problem and checked my rocker arms and found 3 of 4 loose. Can you just tighten them without finding top dead center?

Thanks

Take both plugs out and shine a flashlight in the plug hole or use wood dowel and turn the engine until you see/feel cyl at top of travel.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

How do you manually turn the engine? I have hydraulic pumps on either side of the engine. Do I need to disconnect one or both pumps to turn the shaft?

 

[woodlandfarms]

plugs out, you take the hose off the tram pump and blow, or just jam a screwdriver in the tram opening and turn the vane.

couldn't resist. have no clue.

 

[cqaigy2]

plugs out, you take the hose off the tram pump and blow, or just jam a screwdriver in the tram opening and turn the vane.

couldn't resist. have no clue.

I think you might pop your eardrums if you blew that hard.

 

[Marks481]

How do you manually turn the engine?

use the starter motor, quick on-off, with soark plugs removed. Usually takes several shots to find TDC for each cylinder. Use a soda straw in the cylinder through the spark plug hole so you can watch the piston move.

you got to think hard, since the piston goes up and down twice for each TDC... Watch the valves, and when the intake valve closes, then the piston goes up, you are at TDC. Aternately, please your thumb over the spark plug hole; you can feel the pressure build up from the compression stroke as the piston approaches TDC.

 

[cqaigy2]

You might be able to turn without spark plugs in by grabbing the coupler by hand or pipe wrench and rotating it.