1900 Ford tractor split for clutch replacement

[1900freddy]

Hi!
I have a 1900 ford compact early 80's. Owned it for 18 years. Stored indoors since I have owned it. Last week while pushing snow around I noticed I was loosing power again. Bad clutch. I tried adjusting it about a month earlier and it seemed to help. Not so! I took the loader off(771) and backhoe(758a) off. Almost ready to split tractor but have no idea how to remove driveshaft from transmission to front axle. I have scoured the internet, looked at parts catalogues but it still is not clear to me how to do it. Help would be appreciated.
Regards,
David

 

[MIkeWard]

The driveshaft has an outer sheet metal cover, like a thin wall pipe that is loose and will rotate if you try to turn it.
If you look where it Attaches to the transmission and rotate the outer covering you should see a drift pin that holds the center driveshaft in place. It's not in there really tight and you can drive it out with something slightly smaller in diameter.
Mine was around 1/8" in diameter or so.
With that out you can slide the driveshaft toward the front axel enough to free it and drop it down.
Do the same to the front of the driveshaft. It's a lot tighter there and I just left the front attached.
If this doesn't work you can remove the gear that the driveshaft attaches to under the tranny.
It's 4 bolts and you can drop it down with the shaft still attached to it. You will need to install a New gasket and can make one from a sheet of gasket material. Some fluid will also come out

I don't think our tractors are exactly the same just similar . I do not have an inspection port like you describe
here is a pic I just took. If you take off the 4 bolts from the sheet metal the drift pin is underneath. Turn the shaft till it is horizontal and tap the pin out.



Hope this helps.
Good luck Scott

 

[RickB]

The 1900 has a solid tube for a driveshaft cover and no rollpins in the driveline coupler. Just go ahead & split the tractor. The tube will come out of the drop box or axle trunnion and the splined couplers will disengage. When you put it back together you can either fight to get the splines and cover lined up at the same time you get the transmission shafts perfectly lined up in the clutch disc splines, or you can remove the drop box and install the shaft and cover after the fact.

 

[1900freddy]

Hi Mike,
Thank you for the input. I could not find any roll pins to knock out anywhere. All I got was a stiff neck trying to get that tube and front drive shaft out. I finally removed that thing that sticks down on the transfer case. I removed the shaft finally. The tractor is apart and the clutch is laying on the ground. What a friggen job. I can imagine what it will be like when I try and put the thing together. I have used many jack stands, chain fall and 2 hydraulic jacks. I think I will post some pictures tomorrow so if there might be another straggler who still uses a 1900 like me. It was kinda fun but it turned into NOT FUN!
Thank you,
Very much

 

[1900freddy]

Hi Rick,
Thank you for the reply. I basically did what you said in your post. Albiet 3 hours earlier. The drop box as you call it on the 1900 was attached with 6 bolts, 2 studs with nuts and there are 2 alignment pins. I hate working on my back. The 2 studs are very long and were in the way of pulling driveshaft and tube all the way not to mention the gear. I twisted the drop box to get at the studs and double nutted them to remove them. After removed, the drive shaft, tube came out. In looking at the drive shaft I see there are couplings on each end, drive shaft and couplings look good. I think I will put the drive shaft and drop box back in after the clutch as you suggested. I made the unfortunate decision to remove the 4 bolts that attached " drive shaft" to front differential. It was not the driveshaft. Some sort of support housing, oh well, just more oil spilled out. This time it was gear oil and it stinks. No need to drain front differential now. Ok. I'll drain the remainder out through the actual drain plug, who knows what small metal particles are lurking in there.
Thank again Rick.

The 1900 has a solid tube for a driveshaft cover and no rollpins in the driveline coupler. Just go ahead & split the tractor. The tube will come out of the drop box or axle trunnion and the splined couplers will disengage. When you put it back together you can either fight to get the splines and cover lined up at the same time you get the transmission shafts perfectly lined up in the clutch disc splines, or you can remove the drop box and install the shaft and cover after the fact.

 

[1900freddy]

OK OK! I got the tractor into 2 parts, 3 feet away from each other. The clutch has debris all over it as well as in the bell housing. Took the clutch off flywheel, flywheel looks good with no damage. The drive clutch disc was good next to flywheel but the other side material was completely gone to rivets. That side of pressure plate suffered damage and has a groove in it. I did not take the PTO part of the clutch apart since I do not know how to do that. In looking at the edge of the clutch disc of the PTO part it looks pretty much ok with equal material on both sides. PTO was not used much accept when I took the back hoe off and put a box grader on the back for about 2 months to move some # 4 stone around a parking lot. The throw out bearing needs to be replaced.

Also I noticed that the 3 bolts that contact the throw out bearing from the clutch showed some sign of wear. THe throwout bearing was not doing its job properly.

Ok now it is time for me to decide and with your help to hopefully come to a decision. Can the clutch pressure plate that has the grove in it be welded and resurfaced? Can the drive clutch disc be rebuilt? Where can I get a whole clutch assembly that will not cost more than the tractor is worth?

I will take some photos of my project and post them tomorrow.
Regards

 

[jimmysisson]

I googled clutch rebuild shop Ohio and got several hits. Don't know where you live so you'll have to find a shop. I'd get all new springs, bearings, contact parts etc. esp since you had such a tough split - don't want to do that again!
Jim

 

[1900freddy]

Hi Jimmy,
I took it to Custom Clutch in Cleveland. I had them do a Ferguson TO30 about (Wow) 30 years ago. Seems like yesterday.
When I called them they said they had one in stock. I zoomed across town to them with old clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Get there and Ray pulls out the whole clutch assembly. It looked good, the drive clutch was a perfect match to mine. The next thing he did was match the housing. Bummer- my housing was bigger, my attachment holes were at about 10 9/16 across and the one he had was 9 7/8" across. Anybody that needs a clutch with attachment holes at 9 7/8" he has one at an unbelievable $315.00 Price. I will be paying twice that amount now with throwout and pilot. Maybe bate and switch? Oh well order was placed and I should have it Tuesday.
That pilot bearing was a bugger to get out. No pullers I had would fit that tiny hole. I finally torched .. a screw driver to a 90 and attached a slider hammer with a vice grip attached. About 30 minutes later it poped out.

 

[1900freddy]

Here are some pictures of my involvement.

 

[1900freddy]

Here are some pictures of my involvement.

While waiting for my clutch to arrive I am thinking. The drop box ( picture in previous post) that hangs off the transmission and provides for the front drive shaft had 2 studs with nuts. These studs make it difficult to remove the drop box and will make it difficult to reinstall the driveshaft once tractor is back together because they stick down about 2". I am thinking about putting bolts in place of the studs and nuts. I doing this the drive shaft would not have to be pulled down putting stress on the seals and "O" rings. Do studs and nuts offer something better than bolts? There are alignment pins to locate the drop box already. The other question I have is can I use automotive silicone sealant to seal this drop box since the gasket is bad now and only about 1/32" thick?

OH more questions. I want to replace the o rings in my loader valve, any special o rings needed for hydraulic oil? Also can someone mention why my float on the loader valve might not work well?

Thanks Guys! Merry Christmas! Raining and Flooding in West Cleveland area.