no start badwire?

[overflow]

Ford 1720 went to start a few days ago didn't start, but did start once i jumped it with my truck.

Went out yesterday morning doesn't crank even with jumpers on. and no dash lights lighting up.

So today go get new batteries and leads still no crank but have lights to dash now, also i see where there is a partially melted wire. Looks like some one "rigged" it a one point am planning to redo that any other thoughts on why not cranking?

also i am not very mechanically inclined but am trying to learn so please keep that in mind.

 

[Thomas]

Trouble shooting part of learning..good catch.

 

[diesel lover]

All conctions need to be shiney clean from battery's to grounds and from battery to starter. This can be accomplished with drill and wire brush, angle grinder etc. may have a corroded out battery cable !!!! Just found the ground on my pickup was corroded so I made a completely new ground with 4 gauge welding cable and cable lugs. I have a tool to install them and heat shrunk sealed them. Battery protector on battery terminals and spray paint on grounds and positives!


Do you have a dvom miltimeter/ voltmeter? Check voltage drop. Videos all over YouTube. While cranking tractor check battery available voltage. While cranking should be 9+ volts. If voltage is unchanged when atemping to start you have a bad cable/ connection. Always push in the clutch! Less resistance on engine turning over in the cold

 

[RickB]

There's supposed to be a fusible link in that location. Hard to tell if you have a failed link there that's missing the connector, or just a burnt up piece of plain wire.

 

[duroc]

There's supposed to be a fusible link in that location. Hard to tell if you have a failed link there that's missing the connector, or just a burnt up piece of plain wire.

Not sure if a fusible link should be there or not, (and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have one) but IMO, that red wire contacted the starter motor and rubbed through. That's where the only bare portion of the wire exists, and it's obviously where the heat was more intense. Of course, that's just my observation.

 

[RickB]

Not sure if a fusible link should be there or not, (and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have one) but IMO, that red wire contacted the starter motor and rubbed through. That's where the only bare portion of the wire exists, and it's obviously where the heat was more intense. Of course, that's just my observation.

Doesn't much matter what it is, or how it got that way. Knowing what is supposed to be in that location should be useful information.

 

[duroc]

Doesn't much matter what it is, or how it got that way. Knowing what is supposed to be in that location should be useful information.

I disagree (bold text), because it really does matter "how it got that way". He doesn't want it to happen again, nor does he want the tractor to go up in smoke because of it. I hope you didn't take my first post (or this one, for that matter) as a slam to you, because it's not. I just stated what appears obvious to me.
You are correct... "knowing what is supposed to be in that location should be useful info", BUT also, what isn't there didn't cause the meltdown. JMHO! YMMV!

 

[overflow]

fuse able link that makes sense where would I get one of those? Auto parts store?

Also i rigged it back up with what i think is the correct gauge wiring (previously was a size or two smaller) and now it will crank but not start. Possibly just bc of the cold? I think it is about 15 degress here now, i did the glow plugs for about 15seconds and it just cranks and cranks.

When i Put in the last 5 gal of fuel i put in power service in with it.

 

[MikePA]

I disagree (bold text), because it really does matter "how it got that way". He doesn't want it to happen again, nor does he want the tractor to go up in smoke because of it. I hope you didn't take my first post (or this one, for that matter) as a slam to you, because it's not. I just stated what appears obvious to me. You are correct... "knowing what is supposed to be in that location should be useful info", BUT also, what isn't there didn't cause the meltdown. JMHO! YMMV!

How can you effectively troubleshoot a problem if the wiring is not as it left the factory?

When it left the factory, there was a fusible link there. Apparently, a previous owner removed it and replaced it with a piece of wire, which is dangerous. Increasing the size of the wire that was there is even worse since that means if there's a direct short somewhere, something else will fry.

The OP should call his local NH dealer and find out if they have one in stock. He could also visit Messick's web site, enter the model number in their parts search section to get more detail about it.

 

[duroc]

How can you effectively troubleshoot a problem if the wiring is not as it left the factory?

Without splitting hairs, I agree!

When it left the factory, there was a fusible link there.

I don't positively know if it came with one there or not, but I did say that it certainly would not hurt to have one.

Apparently, a previous owner removed it and replaced it with a piece of wire, which is dangerous. Increasing the size of the wire that was there is even worse since that means if there's a direct short somewhere, something else will fry.

I agree with all of that. No one knows why the previous owner changed that wire, maybe he did a field repair and decided not to repair it properly afterwards. Perhaps he didn't know the proper way to fix it. I don't take shortcuts with wiring because I know better, and I know it will eventually come back to haunt me.

In my original post, I said that it appeared to me that the wire contacted the starter and rubbed through, and IMO that is where the short began.

It doesn't matter (at this point) if the wire was fusable or not because that too would have rubbed through causing the short. There could still be another problem since that wire shorted against the starter.

The OP should call his local NH dealer and find out if they have one in stock. He could also visit Messick's web site, enter the model number in their parts search section to get more detail about it.

I agree!

To the OP...get the proper wire(s) and repair/splice them propery. Clean all contact points.Route the wires away from from any/all chafe areas.