Which Landscape Rake?

[sixdogs]

This is exactly why I won't buy a King Kutter anything, my Dad was a welder all his life and he used to look at that equipment when we went to Fleet Farm when I was a kid and he would always point out all the horrid looking weld on those blades

Here's what I don't understand. How can any company continue to have bad welds when the learning curve to learn how to weld is only a couple hours on a basic MIG welder? Actually, 20 minutes of instruction on a MIG is sufficient to turn out great looking welds on new steel. How do some companies keep showing bad welds day after day after day?

 

[Piston]

Here's what I don't understand. How can any company continue to have bad welds when the learning curve to learn how to weld is only a couple hours on a basic MIG welder? Actually, 20 minutes of instruction on a MIG is sufficient to turn out great looking welds on new steel. How do some companies keep showing bad welds day after day after day?

Lack of quality control and proper training.

 

[blucoondawg]

Here's what I don't understand. How can any company continue to have bad welds when the learning curve to learn how to weld is only a couple hours on a basic MIG welder? Actually, 20 minutes of instruction on a MIG is sufficient to turn out great looking welds on new steel. How do some companies keep showing bad welds day after day after day?

I believe it is mostly like Piston said, poor quality control, also I don't know where the manufacturing facility is located but if it is anything like many places around here they would far rather hire $9 per hour employees and give them a 10 cent raise twice a year than hire properly trained experienced welders and pay them well. I think the biggest problem with these products is the dealer not standing behind the product and in doing so letting the manufacturer know they are turning out garbage and it won't be tolerated. Fleet Farm is a good store in my opinion, I find more Made in USA products there than I do at some other stores selling the same types of stuff but they could stand behind their products much better or at least take note of these problems and find a different manufacturer to supply their implements.

 

[TomSeller]

I haven't seen too many comments about using the rake with gauge wheels for leveling bare ground like you would use a drag. Anyone do much of this and how well do they work? It seems like they would do well for this. The EA ver3 seems to be set up well with the top link float slot to allow for the rake to raise and lower.

 

[sixdogs]

I haven't seen too many comments about using the rake with gauge wheels for leveling bare ground like you would use a drag. Anyone do much of this and how well do they work? It seems like they would do well for this. The EA ver3 seems to be set up well with the top link float slot to allow for the rake to raise and lower.

This is a subjective answer but I find that wheels complicate grading dirt where high and low spots in the field need to be filled. The wheels and rake tend to ride the dips and humps and just leave more of the same.

As I mentioned earlier, draft control on a small tractor with a wide rake will grade dirt as flat as a pancake as long as the dirt is properly prepped. Wheels work when the surface is already generally smooth, like on a gravel drive. Just my two cents since others may feel differently.

 

[Thomabear]

This is a subjective answer but I find that wheels complicate grading dirt where high and low spots in the field need to be filled. The wheels and rake tend to ride the dips and humps and just leave more of the same.

As I mentioned earlier, draft control on a small tractor with a wide rake will grade dirt as flat as a pancake as long as the dirt is properly prepped. Wheels work when the surface is already generally smooth, like on a gravel drive. Just my two cents since others may feel differently.

This has been my experience with the wheels as well.

 

[Piston]

In my limited experience grading fresh topsoil, I found the wheels to help a lot. I initially spread the topsoil with my FEL and then rough graded with the wheels in the air, then used the wheels for final grading as I couldn't get the level finish I was looking for without them.

Personally, I found the wheels very useful, and at the same time, they made up for my lack of experience at the time. Another difference is that I was using the rake more like a blade, with the flip down grader blade, so that could change things a little as well. I've since got more implements and now have more dedicated implements for different jobs that I used the rake for in the past.

I really think gauge wheels are beneficial for grading. When raking on hard ground they just get in the way, as the rake skips across the surface anyways. I suppose it depends what your using the rake for.

 

[TomSeller]

Reading between the lines it sounds to me that if I have well worked soil, draft control without gauge wheels would work well to create a smooth surface. If there are roots and rocks under the soil, like I have, the gauge wheels might be an advantage.

I am trying to reestablish about 5 acres of grass pasture after clearing trees and brush. Right now it is very rough from my clearing, dumping of topsoil on it years ago by the previous owner and it does not appear to have ever been leveled out once cleared of trees back in the 1800s. I am mainly looking to get it into a condition that I can reseed and have a decently level pasture. I don't really care to remove deep roots or rocks.

I am leaning towards the EA ver3 rake with gauge wheels to give me all options.

 

[sixdogs]

Reading between the lines it sounds to me that if I have well worked soil, draft control without gauge wheels would work well to create a smooth surface. If there are roots and rocks under the soil, like I have, the gauge wheels might be an advantage.

I am trying to reestablish about 5 acres of grass pasture after clearing trees and brush. Right now it is very rough from my clearing, dumping of topsoil on it years ago by the previous owner and it does not appear to have ever been leveled out once cleared of trees back in the 1800s. I am mainly looking to get it into a condition that I can reseed and have a decently level pasture. I don't really care to remove deep roots or rocks.

I am leaning towards the EA ver3 rake with gauge wheels to give me all options.

Here's how you do it with the least amount of equipment. Get a big rototiller and go over the ground once or twice at the slowest MPH possible. Then, before it rains, run a packer or roller over it multiple time. don't worry about tire tracks. Let it get rained on a couple times and thoroughly dry out.

Now, get the landscape rake out and have at it until ground s smooth as a baby's bottom. Then, immediately seed and pack. Relax and it will turn green.


In practice, I use additional equipment you might have access to so this is just extra commentary. After I rototill the ground, I run a "cultimulcher" over it. This is an implement that has two packers with cultivators in the middle. I use this multiple times and just skim the ground with the cultivtors. It takes all the tire tracks and imperfections out.
Then, if necessary, I landscape rake it and then cultimulch it one more time. Since the ground is now fluffy soft I use a Brillion seeder to put down the grass and I almost always have 100% results. While I use these things, a little diligence with the first method stated will do as good a job.

It is difficult to teach experience without writing a book so you need some trial and error to figure this stuff out.

 

[dragoneggs]

Here's how you do it with the least amount of equipment. Get a big rototiller and go over the ground once or twice at the slowest MPH possible. Then, before it rains, run a packer or roller over it multiple time. don't worry about tire tracks. Let it get rained on a couple times and thoroughly dry out.

Now, get the landscape rake out and have at it until ground s smooth as a baby's bottom. Then, immediately seed and pack. Relax and it will turn green.


In practice, I use additional equipment you might have access to so this is just extra commentary. After I rototill the ground, I run a "cultimulcher" over it. This is an implement that has two packers with cultivators in the middle. I use this multiple times and just skim the ground with the cultivtors. It takes all the tire tracks and imperfections out.
Then, if necessary, I landscape rake it and then cultimulch it one more time. Since the ground is now fluffy soft I use a Brillion seeder to put down the grass and I almost always have 100% results. While I use these things, a little diligence with the first method stated will do as good a job.

It is difficult to teach experience without writing a book so you need some trial and error to figure this stuff out.

Love it... but I am starting with glacial till... a bunch of golf ball to volleyball sized rocks. I am looking for a magic way to rid these down 4 to 6 inches. Gotta back blade and LR with FEL and want to get off my tractor as little as possible.

 

[sixdogs]

Love it... but I am starting with glacial till... a bunch of golf ball to volleyball sized rocks. I am looking for a magic way to rid these down 4 to 6 inches. Gotta back blade and LR with FEL and want to get off my tractor as little as possible.

Pick up some of the bigger ones--softball and up-- and then till @540 PTO with the tractor in the lowest gear and you will bury what's left if you immediately pack the ground when done. If you don't immediately pack, they will float to the surface. I do it all the time and with people that keep telling me it can't be done.

I don't know your exact situation but maybe you could hire four kids, get a loader tractor and have them pick up the biggest rocks by hand.

 

[blucoondawg]

Or a rock bucket if you are able to get use of one

 

[TomSeller]

Here's how you do it with the least amount of equipment. Get a big rototiller and go over the ground once or twice at the slowest MPH possible. Then, before it rains, run a packer or roller over it multiple time. don't worry about tire tracks. Let it get rained on a couple times and thoroughly dry out............

Wow, I am going to hire you if I ever turn one of my properties into a golf course, which I am considering. I am impressed.

 

[dragoneggs]

Or a rock bucket if you are able to get use of one

Hey blucoon... I'm a dawg but of the purple variety. Yeah I think a rock bucket would be great. Is there such an animal for a BX (SCUT size)? I definitely need to pick up and discard the rocks.

 

[blucoondawg]

Hey blucoon... I'm a dawg but of the purple variety. Yeah I think a rock bucket would be great. Is there such an animal for a BX (SCUT size)? I definitely need to pick up and discard the rocks.

Just a quick google search came up with this, I am sure there could be others: Rock Bucket for Kubota BX Series Tractors from Jari USA

 

[dragoneggs]

Just a quick google search came up with this, I am sure there could be others: Rock Bucket for Kubota BX Series Tractors from Jari USA

Ah, you beat me to it... thanks! Looks intriguing.

 

[blucoondawg]

Ah, you beat me to it... thanks! Looks intriguing.

I assume the biggest challenge to get attachments for your tractor is going to be getting a attachment that is light enough to still be usable within the lift capacity of the loader, I am not sure what it is rated for but I would guess well under 1000 lbs for sure.

 

[dragoneggs]

I assume the biggest challenge to get attachments for your tractor is going to be getting a attachment that is light enough to still be usable within the lift capacity of the loader, I am not sure what it is rated for but I would guess well under 1000 lbs for sure.

Yes sir! Powerful little tractor that is super nimble but a workhorse believe it or not. Takes a little longer than a bigger guy but dang it can work. I love it. I am doing serious landscaping, terracing, etc. and it is a dream. Just need to find the right sized implements. What I am finding is to go a little bigger/heavier than Kubota recommends. Might be a little hard on her the heavier weight of the implements seems to work fine for me. I am up one size on both my landscape rake and back blade. Honestly though, something on the 3pt that would collect rocks would be ideal.

 

[blucoondawg]

Yes sir! Powerful little tractor that is super nimble but a workhorse believe it or not. Takes a little longer than a bigger guy but dang it can work. I love it. I am doing serious landscaping, terracing, etc. and it is a dream. Just need to find the right sized implements. What I am finding is to go a little bigger/heavier than Kubota recommends. Might be a little hard on her the heavier weight of the implements seems to work fine for me. I am up one size on both my landscape rake and back blade. Honestly though, something on the 3pt that would collect rocks would be ideal.

I wouldn't worry too much about the 3 point implements like a rake or blade, as long as you can lift them and pull them they should be ok, its with the pto powered stuff like snow blowers and brush hogs and ground engaging stuff like mouldboard or chisel plows where upsizing will shoot you in the foot, Idk if they will cause damage to your tractor but you certainly won't be getting far with them lol. I am glad I got a larger tractor, that front end loader lift weight adds up in a hurry, I would not be happy with my tractor if I was continually running into stuff I couldn't lift. So far I have only encountered one large root ball from a double basswood tree that I dug out with the Woods backhoe which was too much for her to lift.

 

[dragoneggs]

I wouldn't worry too much about the 3 point implements like a rake or blade, as long as you can lift them and pull them they should be ok, its with the pto powered stuff like snow blowers and brush hogs and ground engaging stuff like mouldboard or chisel plows where upsizing will shoot you in the foot, Idk if they will cause damage to your tractor but you certainly won't be getting far with them lol. I am glad I got a larger tractor, that front end loader lift weight adds up in a hurry, I would not be happy with my tractor if I was continually running into stuff I couldn't lift. So far I have only encountered one large root ball from a double basswood tree that I dug out with the Woods backhoe which was too much for her to lift.

Very wise point on the PTO. Actually I wanted to go a little bigger but I have some confined spaces around my house and garage that I couldn't navigate with anything bigger. If I had the room and more acreage it would be a different story for me. I still drool over a bigger cabbed tractor but I just don't need one. The lift capacity hasn't been an issue for me moving gravel, landscape block, etc. since the bucket is appropriately sized. I have wrestled with a few large root balls, but I have been able to chain and drag them, then curl them on to a burn pile. Okay getting a little (a lot) off topic here