Towing Vechicle for 3500 lbs

[3930dave]

A lot of how a vehicle tows has to do with having the trailer set up properly. You want to tow level and keep the heavy parts of the trailer inward toward the trailer's center. Obviously, you want the weight forward biased, but not with excessive tongue weight. In some cases a weight distributing hitch is called for to move weight to the front wheels. A bigger tow vehicle will be more tolerant of a bad trailer set up, but a minivan will tow 3500 pounds well if properly set up.

A healthy 3.8 should have had enough power. Probably half of all vehicles are running around with a 3/4 plugged air filter - that's fine on FI engines if you are just putting around town - throw a load behind any vehicle, and head up into the mountains with a plugged air filter, yep, it will be disappointing. Even with a perfectly maintained FI engine, you are also at a disadvantage w/o a turbo or supercharger at elevation.

Because of the available space, people often forget how much of a load (easily 1,000#+) people often have inside a minivan, before a trailer is hooked up. In that respect, a lot of minivans are running around with more of a load than many pickup trucks.

I'm with you downslope that I prefer a RWD frame based truck for towing. But, for many people that does not make for a good daily driver.

All this has reminded me of one more thing..... OP, assuming that you are getting an automatic in a new vehicle, seriously consider getting something like a Scangauge II to monitor Transmission temperature - that device will do a lot more than just Trans temp, but IMO it is worth the price just for that task. If what you get next has a 3500# towing rating, I'd also vote for getting a load-distributing hitch.

Rgds, D.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Almost any vehicle on the market that has an engine larger than a 4 cylinder will tow your lawnmower with all the other lawn necessities. Of course the larger the vehicle and larger the engine the faster acceleration and better handling of a heavier load you will have especially if you are going up hills/mountains or at higher elevations. Keep in mind that the larger the vehicle the less mileage you will get and anytime you hook on a trailer even if it is a two wheeled trailer, your mileage is going to fall. The worst mileage chopper is those wire mesh tailgates on some trailers that double as a ramp, they will cut your mileage much more than a heavy load will. They are just like dragging a sail down the road, so avoid a trailer like that and get one with slide in ramps. They may be more of an inconvenience to drag out but they don't cost you any mileage cut back.

 

[s219]

I was wondering about that. Isn't it better to tow this kind of weight with a vehicle that started life as a RWD and not use a FWD or Crossover type vehicle? The recommendations here are running all over the place, Escapes, Explorers, Tacomas, MDX, Ridgelines, minivans, etc. etc.

The main thing I think should be avoided are FWD-based AWD systems, which are generally only AWD when the front wheels slip. For years, this was a big differentiator between Subaru and everyone else -- Subaru had (and still has) a true AWD system that runs some mix of front/rear distribution all the time (some systems are 50/50, some have a slight bias in one direction or another). Then they vary from there based on slippage. In contrast, companies like Honda and Toyota have long offered AWD systems that were 100% FWD until the fronts slip, and then the rears kick in abruptly. They have tiny driveshafts going to the rear and aren't really designed to put a lot of power through the rear wheels full time.

For towing, you're better off with power applied at the rear when accelerating from a stop. FWD-based AWD systems won't really help much there, as they don't kick in unless there is slippage up front. AWD systems that put power to the rear wheels all the time, or at least "preemptively" when accelerating, will tow a whole lot better. These systems are usually only found on higher-end AWD vehicles (Acura, BMW, etc), but then again, a decked out pickup truck is in the same price range nowadays, so maybe "higher-end" isn't such a big deal.

 

[Topkicker]

I'm not sure how quick you need a smaller tow vehicle, but if you can wait till fall I would recommend one of our new GM mid-size trucks. RWD primary w optional 4WD. Two bed length options on crew and extended cabs. Tow capacity is 6700lbs and offers trailer sway control w decent control also. http://www.chevrolet.com/2015-colorado-small-truck.html https://www.gmc.com/canyon-midsize-pickup-truck.html

 

[timswi]

The main thing I think should be avoided are FWD-based AWD systems, which are generally only AWD when the front wheels slip. For years, this was a big differentiator between Subaru and everyone else -- Subaru had (and still has) a true AWD system that runs some mix of front/rear distribution all the time (some systems are 50/50, some have a slight bias in one direction or another). Then they vary from there based on slippage. In contrast, companies like Honda and Toyota have long offered AWD systems that were 100% FWD until the fronts slip, and then the rears kick in abruptly. They have tiny driveshafts going to the rear and aren't really designed to put a lot of power through the rear wheels full time.

For towing, you're better off with power applied at the rear when accelerating from a stop. FWD-based AWD systems won't really help much there, as they don't kick in unless there is slippage up front. AWD systems that put power to the rear wheels all the time, or at least "preemptively" when accelerating, will tow a whole lot better. These systems are usually only found on higher-end AWD vehicles (Acura, BMW, etc), but then again, a decked out pickup truck is in the same price range nowadays, so maybe "higher-end" isn't such a big deal.

You beat me to it...I wouldn't to any real weight with a front wheel drive anything and as you said some of the crossovers have a fwd bias with a rwd backup. Not the best for towing.

I have a 1/2 ton GMC 4x4 quad cab that is a good compromise. I miss the 6.5' bed that my x-cabs had sometimes, but 5'8 or so isn't a show stopper most of the time...Very comfortable and competent multi-purpose vehicle for us.

 

[downslope]

Another thing the OP is suggesting, and I've seen others try to rationalize it from time to time, is the idea to replace 2 vehicles with 1 "compromise" vehicle. If his old truck and cars are still reliable what do you have to gain? The current truck will pull the trailer better than any crossover SUV and depending on what daily driver he has the SUV/truck replacement will use more gas than a 4-cyl car. You might save on plates and insurance, but maybe not if the new SUV requires more coverage. Anyone who does a good amount of daily driving/commuting and is concerned about expenses should probably do it in a 4-cyl not a vehicle suitable for towing.

 

[downslope]

....My friend has towed occasionally a small 1800# sailboat trailer with his 3.8 Grand Caravan; in the mountains it is disappointing to say the least. If it was 4WD option it would be even worse....

A lot of how a vehicle tows has to do with having the trailer set up properly. You want to tow level and keep the heavy parts of the trailer inward toward the trailer's center. Obviously, you want the weight forward biased, but not with excessive tongue weight. In some cases a weight distributing hitch is called for to move weight to the front wheels. A bigger tow vehicle will be more tolerant of a bad trailer set up, but a minivan will tow 3500 pounds well if properly set up.

The problem he would have with the Grand Caravan was not stability but overheating and a couple of downshifts to get over the hills. This wasn't in the Rockies but driving from the coast in SC over the NC mountains to I-81 northbound.

When the V6 FWD's are rated for towing do they have sufficient engine/transmission cooling for this kind of trip or do you have to take it easy? I think 3930Dave was alluding to this when he suggested using a Scangauge II to monitor Transmission temperatures. Every time I've seen someone trying to tow a popup camper with a minivan it seems to be dragging its tail down the road. I guess a WD hitch would help as long as it wasn't overheating and crawling at 25 mph in the hills.

 

[timswi]

The problem he would have with the Grand Caravan was not stability but overheating and a couple of downshifts to get over the hills. This wasn't in the Rockies but driving from the coast in SC over the NC mountains to I-81 northbound.

When the V6 FWD's are rated for towing do they have sufficient engine/transmission cooling for this kind of trip or do you have to take it easy? I think 3930Dave was alluding to this when he suggested using a Scangauge II to monitor Transmission temperatures. Every time I've seen someone trying to tow a popup camper with a minivan it seems to be dragging its tail down the road. I guess a WD hitch would help as long as it wasn't overheating and crawling at 25 mph in the hills.

And that whole traction thing of a FWD having a significant rear load.

 

[Travelover]

The problem he would have with the Grand Caravan was not stability but overheating and a couple of downshifts to get over the hills. This wasn't in the Rockies but driving from the coast in SC over the NC mountains to I-81 northbound.

Can you provide more information about this minivan, i.e. what year and what engine? Did it have the required tow package?

When the V6 FWD's are rated for towing do they have sufficient engine/transmission cooling for this kind of trip or do you have to take it easy? I think 3930Dave was alluding to this when he suggested using a Scangauge II to monitor Transmission temperatures. Every time I've seen someone trying to tow a popup camper with a minivan it seems to be dragging its tail down the road. I guess a WD hitch would help as long as it wasn't overheating and crawling at 25 mph in the hills.

I can speak to the Toyota Sienna, as I have been scoping one out. It is rated for 3500# and has both an engine oil cooler and an auxiliary transmission cooler.

I spent a career as an automotive engineer and the vehicles that we sold were trailer tow tested both at Davis Dam and in wind tunnels to verify adequate cooling at rated trailer weights. I'd guess the same is true for other manufacturers, as they were there at Davis Dam testing, too.

 

[jejeosborne]

Back in the late 90 's I towed a 21 foot tandem axle hybrid travel trailer weighing 3300 lbs with a dodge grand caravan. Put many interstate miles towing 70 mph and never felt a bit unstable or underpowered from the 3.8 liter V6. I can out myself into the group of saying minivans are quite capable at towing up to 3500 lbs. Made for some very comfortable family trips back in the day. I understand wanting a dual purpose vehicle and you will find something that is suitable for your requirements. After all, that is why many utility and crossover vehicles are built for.