Installing 3rd Function Hydraulics - Electric over Hydaulic

[matoyan]

J.J.

What do you think of this? Is it overkill?

 

[J_J]

I believe that valve is designed for use with a grapple.

PRICE: $381.95 , and 25 GPM

Does it match your flow.

 

[matoyan]

I believe that valve is designed for use with a grapple.

PRICE: $381.95 and 25 GPM

Does it match your flow.

I'm doing all this for a grapple, but my hydraulics pump is only 5 gpm. I knew the valve was too much in price and GPM, but I thought maybe. Thanks for all your help and sorry for the ignorant questions.

 

[srs]

J_J, it's really nice that you spend so much time explaining and helping others with hydraulic issues. I find the stuff very confusing (I'm learning) and you always go out of your way to help others. I know many members here on TBN look up to you for your advice and appreciate your assistance. Stanley

 

[ovrszd]

View attachment 360596

J.J.

What do you think of this? Is it overkill?

I used that valve when I put 3rd function on my Kubota L4400. I liked it. Modified the levers so I could get ahold of both at the same time. Worked great, although it's a bit pricey.

 

[cowboy_79_1999]

I am about to start this same project on my Deere 3520. Two questions for those who have done this.

1. Do you find it difficult to disconnect the quick couplers due to residual pressure in the lines, when you remove the grapple? It seems to me that these type of E/hydro valves will hold pressure in the A and B ports in the neutral position, obviously desirable to secure a load between the grapple, but not desirable when disconnecting QD fittings. I could see the need to shut the tractor down, then cycle the valve to relieve line pressure before disconnecting the lines. Or I'm thinking of maybe adding some type of pressure relief to the lines if this is necessary. I believe the new Deere compacts that have the solenoid controlled 3rd function have a pressure relief tee handle on the valve base presumably for this very reason.

2. I've read that the solenoids on the valve can burn up the contacts in a plain switch due to fairly high amperage and some type of reverse high voltage charge that occurs when the switch is released and the solenoid closes. My understanding is that using relays and a diode between the +and- side of the solenoid will save the switch. I didn't see any mention of this with your setup and I'm wondering if you've had any problems so far?

Thanks

 

[ovrszd]

As for the disconnect pressure. Before disconnecting my Grapple hoses I shut off the tractor, then turn the key to ON, then push each button (close/open) a couple times to relieve any pressure. Also I've learned to disconnect after some use so the hydraulic fluid is warmed. So when you try to reconnect later the fluid has cooled and shrank, relieving any pressure in the Grapple system. If you disconnect cold and then try to reconnect when it's warmer you'll have huge problems. I've considered some sort of manual bar valve T'd into the system to let that type of pressure out but have been too lazy to rig it up.

My system uses relays. I assume it's designed that way to take that high amp stress off the joystick buttons. Mine is a Kubota system.

 

[bandaidmd]

I am about to start this same project on my Deere 3520. Two questions for those who have done this.

1. Do you find it difficult to disconnect the quick couplers due to residual pressure in the lines, when you remove the grapple? It seems to me that these type of E/hydro valves will hold pressure in the A and B ports in the neutral position, obviously desirable to secure a load between the grapple, but not desirable when disconnecting QD fittings. I could see the need to shut the tractor down, then cycle the valve to relieve line pressure before disconnecting the lines. Or I'm thinking of maybe adding some type of pressure relief to the lines if this is necessary. I believe the new Deere compacts that have the solenoid controlled 3rd function have a pressure relief tee handle on the valve base presumably for this very reason.

2. I've read that the solenoids on the valve can burn up the contacts in a plain switch due to fairly high amperage and some type of reverse high voltage charge that occurs when the switch is released and the solenoid closes. My understanding is that using relays and a diode between the +and- side of the solenoid will save the switch. I didn't see any mention of this with your setup and I'm wondering if you've had any problems so far?

Thanks

You have to do it like oversz says. With my diverter i do it basicly that same way. Shut off the tractor turn the key back on and press the diverter button and cycle the lever.

 

[matoyan]

12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

Just match up fittings and some hose and a place to mount the valve.

Then wire up the solenoid so it has power when tractor switch is on.

J.J.

I received my parts today and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a gasket between the subplate and the solenoid. It wasn't in the things I received and I wasn't sure if I was suppose to order it or even if it needs it. Thanks.

 

[J_J]

I believe there is only o-rings.

Are there indentations in either the solenoid or the sub plate?

Did the o-rings come with either of the parts?

 

[matoyan]

I believe there is only o-rings.

Are there indentations in either the solenoid or the sub plate?

Did the o-rings come with either of the parts?

so I took the solenoid out and I noticed that there was a thick plastic covering the ports. After I took it off, I found the O-rings inside of the four ports. Should I put any kind of gasket sealant or just the o-rings?

Mario

 

[ovrszd]

Mario, They'll work just like they are.

 

[matoyan]

Mario, They'll work just like they are.

Thanks for all the help. I cant wait to install this.

 

[kevincook]

JJ, can you give me a quick lesson on these different valve types?

Surplus Center

When would I use oc vs. cc?

What is different for the motor spool valves?

What is different with the reversing motor valve?

I want to add some valves for general use. I do want to run an auger motor but I may want other hydraulics down the road.

I am thinking of adding a sub base for two or three valves. Should they all be the same or should I mix them up?

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[kevincook]

I also want to control the hydraulic motor on the chute rotator on my snow blower.

 

[J_J]

JJ, can you give me a quick lesson on these different valve types?

Surplus Center

When would I use oc vs. cc?

Thanks,
Kevin

What is different for the motor spool valves?

What is different with the reversing motor valve?

I want to add some valves for general use. I do want to run an auger motor but I may want other hydraulics down the road.

I am thinking of adding a sub base for two or three valves. Should they all be the same or should I mix them up?

If you are talking about manual stacked valves, or solenoid valves, you can mix valves to suit your purpose.


Your tractor uses an open center hyd system, and you need Open center valves.

A motor spool valve allows the motor to wind down after you place the lever in neutral.

Reversing motor spools allow you to turn the shaft in fwd or rev. Good to have with an auger.

You mentioned a sub base, so that means that you are thinking about solenoid valves.

Just go to Surplus and choose your valves, and a sub plate that will accommodate the number of valves you want.

 

[J_J]

I also want to control the hydraulic motor on the chute rotator on my snow blower.

You have to be careful about using the curl hyd on the loader to control the chute if your valve has regen.

 

[cowboy_79_1999]

Kevincook,
First I must say, I'm no hydraulic expert, but I did seek advise from a local hydraulic shop on this very subject...
I'd be careful when adding multiple solenoid valves to your tractor. In an open center system (most compact tractors) the valves must be plumbed in series and the pressure drop created through each valve plus the base will be substantial. This will likely cause problems downstream (your 3pt lift capacity and speed may suffer). It could potentially create problems upstream if the back pressure gets too high as well. I'd recommend if you want multiple valves that you look into a manual stack with a true power beyond function.

Good luck,

 

[kevincook]

OK, thanks for the replies. I guess I need to figure out exactly what I want to have the capability of running on the front and back of my machine and then come up with a plan.

JJ, I purchased my front snowblower after I already owned the tractor and had trouble with the loader valve because of the regen circuit. I ended up switching the hoses so that the curl circuit is used for raising and lowering the blower and the loader arms circuit is used for rotating the chute. This worked as a quick fix but it means I don't have a float position when I lower the snowblower. As you can imagine that makes it a little more difficult to use, especially if my wife has to snow blow when I'm out of town.

Kevin

 

[J_J]

Do you really think that is a large significant factor based on all the solenoid valves in existence.

This could be tested with someones tractor that has a 3 function valve. Just plug in a hyd gage and activate the valve. Then plug the gage into the loader valve and check the pressure.

Loader valves will have a relief, whereas the 3rd function does not normally have one.