Chain saw safety

TomSeller · Apr 11, 2014

JDgreen227 said:
Not trying to breathe new life into my own thread, but wanted to share something with others: To me, the most dangerous cutting I do with a chainsaw is when I have a mass of branches on the ground and need to remove the small stuff prior to cutting up any thing big enough for real firewood. .

Totally agree with this. Add a slope to the ground and rain and it is very, very dangerous.

mark02tj · Apr 12, 2014

JDgreen227 said:
To me, the most dangerous cutting I do with a chainsaw is when I have a mass of branches on the ground and need to remove the small stuff prior to cutting up any thing big enough for real firewood.

First let me say that I don't have nearly as much chainsaw experience as a lot of you guys. I've run a saw since my late teens, but it used to be a little bit here and there, often with a few years between even having to fire up my saw. Three years ago I moved to a very wooded property and have used my saw more since than in the 15 years previous. Like JDGreen, I don't like cutting the little crap with my chain saw. I'm thinking about getting a good battery operated reciprocating saw (aka SawzAll) to do this. I figure that it will be safer and quieter and I won't have to keep shutting off and restarting the saw while cutting branches then moving/chipping them. Any comments on that idea?

I don't have chaps or a helmet yet, but have been planning on getting them. This thread has reinforced that plan!! In addition to clearing a lot of brush, I also have a lot of ash that need to come out so I will be using the chainsaw a lot over the next couple of years.

radioman · Apr 12, 2014

JoeL4330 said:
I've used many chainsaws over the years ...almost exclusively Stihls ...but when I bought a new one, recently, I discovered what, to me, is a safety glitch ...Stihl bills it as a "feature" ... it's the soft start feature ...pulling the cord doesn't directly start the saw, it "accumulates" energy, which is then released to start the saw. The "feature" is you can pull the cord like a lazy man and the saw will then start energetically ! But, there is a (variable) lag between when the cord is pulled (and returns) and the saw "decides" to start.

If find this disconcerting, if not dangerous ...but, then, I'm from the old (equally dangerous) "drop start" school. ( yeah! I hear you)

My father picked up one of these new fangled saws. I tried using it and I really dont like the soft start. He had it for over 5 years i think and its already falling apart. He has to take the pull start apart to put the clips back in to start. I like the old school stuff - and thankfully they still make em. I think I'll hang on to my super XL a little while longer.

Redneck in training · Apr 12, 2014

mark02tj said:
First let me say that I don't have nearly as much chainsaw experience as a lot of you guys. I've run a saw since my late teens, but it used to be a little bit here and there, often with a few years between even having to fire up my saw. Three years ago I moved to a very wooded property and have used my saw more since than in the 15 years previous. Like JDGreen, I don't like cutting the little crap with my chain saw. I'm thinking about getting a good battery operated reciprocating saw (aka SawzAll) to do this. I figure that it will be safer and quieter and I won't have to keep shutting off and restarting the saw while cutting branches then moving/chipping them. Any comments on that idea?

I don't have chaps or a helmet yet, but have been planning on getting them. This thread has reinforced that plan!! In addition to clearing a lot of brush, I also have a lot of ash that need to come out so I will be using the chainsaw a lot over the next couple of years.

We are using long handle multiple strokes shears to cut branches.

TomSeller · Apr 12, 2014

I think using a big saw with a long bar adds a lot of danger when trimming branches. The long bar increases the possibility of coming into intact with a branch you don't see and the big saw head is heavier and can snag on a branch as well. Not to mention a big saw can do a lot more damage with the power it has and the longer bar.

I use a little 30 cc Stihl for trimming. A little short 10" or 12" works best. If any branches can't be cut with a 12" bar, you can use your bigger saw for that cut. The smaller saw is less fatiguing as well making it safer.

arrow · Apr 12, 2014

TomSeller said:
I think using a big saw with a long bar adds a lot of danger when trimming branches. The long bar increases the possibility of coming into intact with a branch you don't see and the big saw head is heavier and can snag on a branch as well. Not to mention a big saw can do a lot more damage with the power it has and the longer bar.

I use a little 30 cc Stihl for trimming. A little short 10" or 12" works best. If any branches can't be cut with a 12" bar, you can use your bigger saw for that cut. The smaller saw is less fatiguing as well making it safer.

Yes and no Tom. It depends on the size of the branches and "sprung" aspects of a fallen tree. Many times I wished for 4' long arms and was glad to have a 36"-48" sometimes for "trimming". One did not want to drop a thousand pound "branch" at head high and be anywhere near its fall. Depending on the canopy support, a branch like this could move a couple of feet right at you instead of dropping straight down. The "yes" part I agree wholeheartedly with is that a big saw is more of a handful for the normal user and thus in general, support your assertion as most of us are not getting involved with such situations.

arrow · Apr 12, 2014

Redneck in training said:
We are using long handle multiple strokes shears to cut branches.

What is this tool Ladia?

Redneck in training · Apr 13, 2014

arrow said:
What is this tool Ladia?

The shears a have a ratchet mechanism so you have to close and open the handles several times to make a single cut. But you can cut quite large branches with less force.