did I break anything?

[whynot162]

I pulled the rockers off, and the exhaust valve for cyl #1 is higher than all of the others with a straight edge. does that mean anything? also there was oil in the exhaust under the muffler when I removed it.
Thanks
Doug

 

[Rich Waugh]

YOu say there was oil in the exhaust inder the muffler - what kind of oil? Is it motor oil or diesel fuel? Unburned diesel would collect there and thicken, resembling oil.

As for the high valve, that could be just a manufacturing difference or it could mean a problem with the valve seat or valve head. How much higher is it, exactly? A couple of thousandths is nothing, an eighth of an inch is a problem. You need to be much more specific with your information if we're going to be able to help you.

If the head gasket is installed properly and you're sure of that, then I'd suggest re-doing the valve lash by the book. Be sure to start with the number 1 cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. If you get that wrong, everything else will be off.

The rod your mechanic messed with is probably the actuator for the governor (throttle). That shouldn't be a significant factor in the starting issue, I don't think.

 

[whynot162]

I will try to give better information, I guess the problem is I do not know what is helpful. The flat edge will rock on the valve when placing it across the top of the valve stems. I do not know how to measure it.

The tractor was very hard to start when pulling it, but ran good when it did finally start. I have no mixing of water and oil, so I believe that the head-gasket was installed correctly, after installing the new rings and liners.

now that you mention it, the oil in the exhaust has got to be diesel. It is thin like diesel, and black from the soot I am assuming.
I will do the valve lash again. One book says .30MM and .40, another book just listing specifications, lists both at .38-.48. I used the .30(.014) and .40(.016) so when I do it again, I will use a little more gap.

thanks

 

[whynot162]

Ok, I went and did this again to .40MM. Still will not start and now there are large amounts of oil coming out of the exhaust. head gasket? or rings? how do I tell? The oil I mentioned above is this same oil. It takes some cranking then I get the oil, it is not immediate.

thanks
Doug

 

[whynot162]

pulled the head, the only thing that I see is that the liners are up about .002 higher than the rest of the block. but that is the way it was when I removed the originals, and you can see where the head gasket seals around the liner and it looks like a good clean seal. I did have the head done if you remember, and the valves are all black from soot, So I believe that the head is still ok also.
I will clean this really good and try again, unless someone has another idea, or recommendation.
thanks

 

[greg_g]

Any chance you got the wrong head gasket? Different variants of the same engine can use different gasket. Sleeve bore variants use a different gasket for example, than a cylinder bore. This is one way coolant can be introduced to the cylinder while cranking. Also sometimes not all oil and coolant passages line up between the block and the head. That's another way coolant and/or oil can get into the cylinder. Both of these conditions can create white smoke while cranking, and the latter might explain the "oil" you're now seeing.

//greg//

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Any chance you got the wrong head gasket? Different variants of the same engine can use different gasket. Sleeve bore variants use a different gasket for example, than a cylinder bore. This is one way coolant can be introduced to the cylinder while cranking. Also sometimes not all oil and coolant passages line up between the block and the head. That's another way coolant and/or oil can get into the cylinder. Both of these conditions can create white smoke while cranking, and the latter might explain the "oil" you're now seeing.

//greg//

I'll add that my Jinma came with a parts kit from the factory which included a head gasket, and that head gasket was for a different engine than mine. That caused me some confusion but I eventually figured it out.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Ok, I went and did this again to .40MM. Still will not start and now there are large amounts of oil coming out of the exhaust. head gasket? or rings? how do I tell? The oil I mentioned above is this same oil. It takes some cranking then I get the oil, it is not immediate.

thanks
Doug

This sounds like engine oil. On my Jinma it takes 10-15 seconds for the oil pump to generate pressure.

What does the oil smell like? Diesel has a distinctive smell. Engine oil is subtler but also a recognizable smell.

If the head gasket were not sealing engine oil leaking into the cylinders could be a consequence.

 

[rsallen]

Was a compression test done prior to pulling the head back off?

Valve job was done?
Machinist should have cut valve height to a reasonable tolerance.

Oil pressure gallery goes through headgasket on your engine? Or an outside line? (I've seen it done both ways on engines)

 

[whynot162]

I have no idea how to do a compression test on this engine, The injectors are held in by a clamp type thing from the top, not threaded in.
I did have the head done when I did the liners and rings.
I am not sure about the head gasket. I will clean it up and see if it lines up, the oil is fed to the head through a passage that is sealed by the head gasket
This was a pain to start for a long time, then found that the coolant was seeping into the cylinder through a liner. That is why all of this work was done, and I was hoping that this would fix it and I could have a good starting tractor again...