Brush Hog

[Mattb15]

I have a 2007 Montana 3040 tractor its a 30HP tractor. I need to get a brush hog for it. I am looking at used ones only hopefully to find a good one for under $800. I have never even used a brush hog before, this is my first tractor. I am going to be using it for a hay field that is going to be a pasture for horses and maybe some brush clearing and trail clearing in the woods not really sure. I've seen some for sale a Bush Hog SQ600 squealer for $725, a Countyline Rotary cutter for $900 but i think those go for $950 new. Anyone have any suggestions it's not going to see alot of work I don't think (but it might) but since I've never used one I want something that wont break easy if I do something stupid not that I'm trying to but stuff happens. I read that the countyline one that you can get i think at tractor supply almost works as a finishing mower too???

 

[Soundguy]

i'd look for a unit that will cover your tire tracks. that's probably gonna put you into a 6' mower. while the kodiak, howse and kk units are generally light to medium duty, you can get medium and hd models.

they make great medium use and otherwise starter mowers.

If your unit does not have live pto ( not familiar with your machine ).. get an over running coupler. Also.. check the shear pin or torque limiter if it has one. used mowers with slip clutches sometimes have not been maintained and need to be adjusted when you get them ( then serviced yearly ). for shear pin models. check the pin. make sure it is the correct grade bolt / pin. Many units want a soft gr2 fastener.

 

[Mattb15]

It has a PTO its either independent or manual PTO not sure if that helps. Is a 6 foot brush hog to big for a 30HP tractor just wondering? the guy that sold it to me said it wasn't....Is kodiak, howse and KK something I should look into ? Thanks again

 

[Soundguy]

6' is *generally* fine for a 30 hp machine

independent pto would be great.

Pto is either:

transmission and non live

live via a dual staged clutch ( or some combination of 2 clutches.. older machines might have a foot and hand clutch or pinion clutch )

or independent.


Independent pto means you can manipulate the pto without effect to the driveline.. ie. you can start or stop the pto and it does not effect transmission state, or ground speed, stopping, etc.

live, dual staged pto's you can usually clutch the driveline and leave pto powered.

Both of those two provide safety by preventing rotary inertia from backfeeding the driveline and pushing you into an obstacle you may have clutched to avoid.

the most basic is non live, transmission pto. those ar ethe ones that if you clutch, only the engine is disconnected from the driveline... and the rotary inertia of a mower can transmit thru pto thru tranny to driveline and keep pushing you. that's when you need an orc which is basically a small adapter that allows rotational power transmission in only one direction. tractor to mower.. not mower to tractor..

 

[Mattb15]

Thanks I appreciate the help. I'm going to buy a brush hog in the next week or so and once I test it out I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again hopefully the PTO and all that is easy to figure out. Just hook it up turn the throttle to 20 and start brush hoggin?

 

[HEC]

You will just have to figure out the right speed for the conditions . I have a 6 ft. behind a 50 plus pto HP and and have to slow down quite alot in real heavy hay .

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks I appreciate the help. I'm going to buy a brush hog in the next week or so and once I test it out I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again hopefully the PTO and all that is easy to figure out. Just hook it up turn the throttle to 20 and start brush hoggin?

generally it's alot LESS stress to engage the mower at IDLE, then power it up. otherwise if you tach her to max then slam it in gear you are gonna shock the driveline terribly.

this is a case of easy does it.

you will eventually learn the sweet pto that engaging the mower does not lug the tractor but also provides the least shock you can to the driveline .. that is for independent systems. some allow for a lil feathering to engage.. some do not. I have seen solenoid engage type systems that slam the pto on .. the dual and single clutch models you can slip just like the driveline so it is less of an issue.

Once engaged and to correct rpm/throttle.. start mowing. if she is bogging down and you can't throttle up it is lugging.. drop ground speed ( drop a gear on a manual.. or less go-pedal on a hydro ).. and / or take less than a full cut width if necescarry. you will find that lush dense grass is the hardest cut.. and then even tall, stemmy or dry weeds are some of the easier cuts.

 

[Soundguy]

ps. remember to check the lube in your hog some come shipped with dry boxes.. and a used one may have a leak.

also remember that most pto yokes have grease fittings at the yoke and universals.

 

[jeff9366]

Rule of thumb is five engine horsepower per foot of 'Hog width. You should be fine with 30-hp and a six foot width 'Hog. However, as you are new to tractors, a five foot 'Hog would be prudent.

You need to be sure PTO shaft is the right length. Too short and it can separate into two parts and flail around; very dangerous.

Too long and it can bind as you leave a swale; then SOMETHING has to give.

Make sure PTO guards are in place and tethers secured from tractor to PTO guards.

You need to adjust machine level, left - to - right with the (right) Lifting Rod on the Three Point Hitch.

Then set desired grass cut + 1" - 1-1/2" at tail wheel. ( Rear of 'Hog will be higher than the front.)

Front of machine, where the cutting is done, should be 1" - 1-1/2" lower than the rear, where the grass is discharged. Front height is set with the Top Link.

Bush Hogs are dangerous. Get someone with experience to show you the way.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Rule of thumb is five engine horsepower per foot of 'Hog width. You should be fine with 30-hp and a six foot width 'Hog.

.

I believe 5 is pretty much the minimum. Iv gone as low as 4 and its usable, but I like to have more. 9 is great.