Brush Hog

/ Brush Hog #1  

Mattb15

New member
Joined
May 1, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Johnsonville NY
Tractor
2007 Montana 3040
I have a 2007 Montana 3040 tractor its a 30HP tractor. I need to get a brush hog for it. I am looking at used ones only hopefully to find a good one for under $800. I have never even used a brush hog before, this is my first tractor. I am going to be using it for a hay field that is going to be a pasture for horses and maybe some brush clearing and trail clearing in the woods not really sure. I've seen some for sale a Bush Hog SQ600 squealer for $725, a Countyline Rotary cutter for $900 but i think those go for $950 new. Anyone have any suggestions it's not going to see alot of work I don't think (but it might) but since I've never used one I want something that wont break easy if I do something stupid not that I'm trying to but stuff happens. I read that the countyline one that you can get i think at tractor supply almost works as a finishing mower too???
 
/ Brush Hog #2  
i'd look for a unit that will cover your tire tracks. that's probably gonna put you into a 6' mower. while the kodiak, howse and kk units are generally light to medium duty, you can get medium and hd models.

they make great medium use and otherwise starter mowers.

If your unit does not have live pto ( not familiar with your machine ).. get an over running coupler. Also.. check the shear pin or torque limiter if it has one. used mowers with slip clutches sometimes have not been maintained and need to be adjusted when you get them ( then serviced yearly ). for shear pin models. check the pin. make sure it is the correct grade bolt / pin. Many units want a soft gr2 fastener.
 
/ Brush Hog
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It has a PTO its either independent or manual PTO not sure if that helps. Is a 6 foot brush hog to big for a 30HP tractor just wondering? the guy that sold it to me said it wasn't....Is kodiak, howse and KK something I should look into ? Thanks again
 
/ Brush Hog #4  
6' is *generally* fine for a 30 hp machine

independent pto would be great.

Pto is either:

transmission and non live

live via a dual staged clutch ( or some combination of 2 clutches.. older machines might have a foot and hand clutch or pinion clutch )

or independent.


Independent pto means you can manipulate the pto without effect to the driveline.. ie. you can start or stop the pto and it does not effect transmission state, or ground speed, stopping, etc.

live, dual staged pto's you can usually clutch the driveline and leave pto powered.

Both of those two provide safety by preventing rotary inertia from backfeeding the driveline and pushing you into an obstacle you may have clutched to avoid.

the most basic is non live, transmission pto. those ar ethe ones that if you clutch, only the engine is disconnected from the driveline... and the rotary inertia of a mower can transmit thru pto thru tranny to driveline and keep pushing you. that's when you need an orc which is basically a small adapter that allows rotational power transmission in only one direction. tractor to mower.. not mower to tractor..
 
/ Brush Hog
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks I appreciate the help. I'm going to buy a brush hog in the next week or so and once I test it out I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again hopefully the PTO and all that is easy to figure out. Just hook it up turn the throttle to 20 and start brush hoggin?
 
/ Brush Hog #6  
You will just have to figure out the right speed for the conditions . I have a 6 ft. behind a 50 plus pto HP and and have to slow down quite alot in real heavy hay .
 
/ Brush Hog #7  
Thanks I appreciate the help. I'm going to buy a brush hog in the next week or so and once I test it out I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again hopefully the PTO and all that is easy to figure out. Just hook it up turn the throttle to 20 and start brush hoggin?

generally it's alot LESS stress to engage the mower at IDLE, then power it up. otherwise if you tach her to max then slam it in gear you are gonna shock the driveline terribly.

this is a case of easy does it.

you will eventually learn the sweet pto that engaging the mower does not lug the tractor but also provides the least shock you can to the driveline .. that is for independent systems. some allow for a lil feathering to engage.. some do not. I have seen solenoid engage type systems that slam the pto on .. the dual and single clutch models you can slip just like the driveline so it is less of an issue.

Once engaged and to correct rpm/throttle.. start mowing. if she is bogging down and you can't throttle up it is lugging.. drop ground speed ( drop a gear on a manual.. or less go-pedal on a hydro ).. and / or take less than a full cut width if necescarry. you will find that lush dense grass is the hardest cut.. and then even tall, stemmy or dry weeds are some of the easier cuts.
 
/ Brush Hog #8  
ps. remember to check the lube in your hog some come shipped with dry boxes.. and a used one may have a leak.

also remember that most pto yokes have grease fittings at the yoke and universals.
 
/ Brush Hog #9  
Rule of thumb is five engine horsepower per foot of 'Hog width. You should be fine with 30-hp and a six foot width 'Hog. However, as you are new to tractors, a five foot 'Hog would be prudent.

You need to be sure PTO shaft is the right length. Too short and it can separate into two parts and flail around; very dangerous.

Too long and it can bind as you leave a swale; then SOMETHING has to give.

Make sure PTO guards are in place and tethers secured from tractor to PTO guards.

You need to adjust machine level, left - to - right with the (right) Lifting Rod on the Three Point Hitch.

Then set desired grass cut + 1" - 1-1/2" at tail wheel. ( Rear of 'Hog will be higher than the front.)

Front of machine, where the cutting is done, should be 1" - 1-1/2" lower than the rear, where the grass is discharged. Front height is set with the Top Link.

Bush Hogs are dangerous. Get someone with experience to show you the way.
 
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/ Brush Hog #10  
Rule of thumb is five engine horsepower per foot of 'Hog width. You should be fine with 30-hp and a six foot width 'Hog.

.
I believe 5 is pretty much the minimum. Iv gone as low as 4 and its usable, but I like to have more. 9 is great.
 
/ Brush Hog #11  
yep. 4 gets you into using creativ ground speeds and rationing cut if material is too thick. EWarly ford N had only 23pto hp or so.. and still ran a 5' hog in 1st gear throttle.. might be running to the hilt though :)

on the flip side. more is always better.

I run a 10' mower on a 70pto hp unit.. and a 15' mower on a 90pto hp unit.
 
/ Brush Hog
  • Thread Starter
#12  
This is great feedback and alot of help....I saw where it said "PTO guard" what is that?
Also, I have a shuttle shift tractor so I should just hook the brush hog up then start in Low gear and throttle around 20 then go from there and see how it works ? Also if anyone has any brands for brush hogs that they strongely recommend please let me know. Thanks again (sorry if the questions sound dumb but this is my first tractor and I appreciate the help alot)
 
/ Brush Hog #13  
pto guard / shield referes to driveline and shields at the hookup yoke.

As to the shuttle, rpm, and range.

as I said start LOW rpm. not 20. 20 sounds like 2000 and your full blast mowing setting.

start at IDLE, engage pto. once pto spinning.. THEN throttle up. once throttled up. then start moving..
 
/ Brush Hog #14  
Also if anyone has any brands for brush hogs that they strongely recommend please let me know.

In five foot width 'Hogs every single one is going to have a China built gear box. Every single one is going to have a China or Italy built PTO shaft. So what you have left is the blades, housing and Three Point Hitch tower. (The blades are likely imported too. )

Five foot width Bush Hogs come in two weight categories. The light ones are rated for 1" brush, the heavier ones are rated for 2" brush. (It is a little more complicated than that, but not much.) The heavier 'Hogs are more robust.

I pull a Land Pride five foot width RCF2060 = $1,800 MSRP / $1,600 real world.

The design of the tower and floating link make the RCF2060 follow ground contours much better than my old 48" King Kutter Rotary Cutter, but the KK was free.

LINK:

RCF2060 & RCF2072 Series Rotary Cutters | Land Pride
 
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/ Brush Hog #15  
I saw where it said "PTO guard" what is that?

There are generally three PTO guards involved. The main one is the plastic tube that runs outside the PTO shaft, and includes a bell housing at each end which partially guard the universal joints. The second is the metal shield above and to the sides of the PTO stub shaft on the back of the tractor. The third is a bell housing attached to the rotary cutter which guards the rear universal joint and slip clutch or shear pin at the connection to the mower. The plastic PTO shaft shield needs to be connected to the mower with a chain, and to the tractor with a chain so that the shield does not revolve with the shaft. HTH
 
/ Brush Hog #16  
I think a 5 foot is the right size for you. I think the choice to the cutter comes down to what is available. There are several regional brands,4 or 5 premium brands(Woods,Land Pride,Rhino,Bushog) and then all the rest. I think the squealer is a good choice but mine did not cut as well as a King Kutter. The Bushog is pretty sturdy. The Countyline should be OK but it is not as heavy duty. Most people get things cleared in a year or two and then seldom cut anything difficult after that. Most any cutter will handle that. Check Craigslist for a good used one. Good ones tend to be hard to find, but you may get lucky. If it looks pretty good and is not leaking, you are probably fine.
 
/ Brush Hog #17  
Yeah, I agree with Mess, the medium duty cutters will probably do just fine, Countryline/Kingkutter. Oil and grease and you'll be fine. bjr
 
/ Brush Hog #18  
In five foot width 'Hogs every single one is going to have a China built gear box. Every single one is going to have a China or Italy built PTO shaft. So what you have left is the blades, housing and Three Point Hitch tower. (The blades are likely imported too. )

Five foot width Bush Hogs come in two weight categories. The light ones are rated for 1" brush, the heavier ones are rated for 2" brush. (It is a little more complicated than that, but not much.) The heavier 'Hogs are more robust.

I pull a Land Pride five foot width RCF2060 = $1,800 MSRP / $1,600 real world.

The design of the tower and floating link make the RCF2060 follow ground contours much better than my old 48" King Kutter Rotary Cutter, but the KK was free.

LINK:

RCF2060 & RCF2072 Series Rotary Cutters | Land Pride

Heres an old sleeper if you can find it. A five foot 600# bushog with a 100+ HP gearbox. Run it with 50HP and it will cut 8" trees.
... try to find a 127. If the gearbox hasnt been run dry it will be good. The chassis will be worth fixing if the heart is still good. JD made it in '58 as a Bush Hog beater. Let it die after they proved they could.
larry
 
/ Brush Hog #19  
I have been running a 6ft bush hog for over 25yrs. Yesterday was it's final run as I started on a field with "nothing in it" and went about a hundred ft before hitting a block of wood. Something snapped in the gearhead and that was that. The deck on this I put 3/16 plate where the ends of the blades go around and 3/8th plate along sides and back before I ever used it. It still looks in good shape as it isn't beat up and I have used it hard for many years, no complaints. I have had another one in reserve for a long time so I just changed out the pto shaft from one to the other and finished the job. Now I need to get busy and beef up the tin on this one before it gets whacked out of shape.

One thing that I reccomend to all that use these is to get the blades with the back side of the cutting edge tipped up a bit so it hits the deck before the leading edge. We had a brand new one out and hit some rocks and the blades opened up the front part of the deck like a can opener. This is what had me reinforce the deck and sides and use this type of blade.
 
/ Brush Hog #20  
does the input shaft feel solid and notr floppy and spin ok?

check output shaft to hub area. sometimes they shear connectiosn from output shaft to hub.

lastly.. check to make sure it does not have a flange type shear protection that may be letting the pto shaft freewheel and not spin the input shaft.
 
 
 
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