New Well

   / New Well #11  
Anyways here's some pics of the expensive day.

Saw that 3rd pic with just the well head poking out of the ground. What is that white pipe? PVC? Is the electrical below ground?

Down here in Missouri they require 80' of continuous steel casing (i.e, four welded 20' sections). After that its up to you but everyone with any cents runs PVC casing all the way down.

My well in '08 was 340'. Water popped up to 200'. Pump placed at 240'. About the same price of 5 years of water bills back in the city so I'm already ahead.

Bob
 
   / New Well #12  
Saw that 3rd pic with just the well head poking out of the ground. What is that white pipe? PVC? Is the electrical below ground?

Down here in Missouri they require 80' of continuous steel casing (i.e, four welded 20' sections). After that its up to you but everyone with any cents runs PVC casing all the way down.

My well in '08 was 340'. Water popped up to 200'. Pump placed at 240'. About the same price of 5 years of water bills back in the city so I'm already ahead.

Bob

I'm wondering the same thing. PVC there is just asking to broken off. It also deteriorates from direct sun. It may be painted steel (hope it is).

Jusst another thought for people planning on drilling a well. When I did mine I specified that there be a 110 outlet on the well. I have found it to be a very convenient place for power tools vice running extension cords into that area.

Harry K
 
   / New Well #13  
When I did mine I specified that there be a 110 outlet on the well. I have found it to be a very convenient place for power tools vice running extension cords into that area.

And 110 is real handy to have a thermostat outlet to run simple incandescent lights to keep the well house from freezing, too! Of course, those bulbs are illegal in this country. But still.

Bob
 
   / New Well
  • Thread Starter
#14  
The current rate as of last week when I spoke to the project manager of the company is $32.50 per foot. The casing is white PVC for the entire un. We plan on covering it with a wishing well and that side of the house is quite shaded. It's not operational as of yet because the drillers don't do any hook up at all, I'm going to go see a friend from up the road and see if he and I can get it done, plus he's got a backhoe. If not I'll call the guy that originally did the old well hook up/septic system.
The reason I think we can use the current pump is this, it's submersible which is what is needed, and it's 220 volt. I can't remember the HP at the moment but I'll look it up, I do know that it's a Grundfos, the drillers thought it would be ok.
Good point about the well lid guys I guess I don't really think about it that way. The plus is the culvert pipe extends about 3 ft out of the ground so at least you can't just fall in while walking around.
If it turns out that we can't use that pump then the old well will stay connected and we will use it for the garden. If we can use it then I'll install a rustic looking hand pump on the old well with an appropriate lid.
Drilling is a bit of a monopoly here, the company that did it has been buying up all the competition, so it's slim pickins. The plus side is it's a family company in operation since 1896.

I just looked at the old invoice and the pump is 1/2 HP, do you guys think it's enough?
 
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   / New Well #15  
I just had a well drilled for the house I'm having built in Chesterfield, VA. Don't know the cost of the drilling but looking at your picture I had to have mine drilled 50' from the house, whie yours looks like it's right next to it.
 
   / New Well #16  
[video]http://www.aquascience.net/submersible-pumps/index.cfm?manufacturer=Grundfos[/video]

This sight has some pump curves on it.:)

Hope it helps.
 
   / New Well #17  
At the same depth, around here many are 3/4 hp with the plastic tubing running up to the top. My well would be used for some extra pumping to irrigate seedlings so it is a 2hp with the larger metal (2" dia??) pipe. If I were to replace, I would go with the smaller unit now because I don't need the extra volume.
 
   / New Well
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I just had a well drilled for the house I'm having built in Chesterfield, VA. Don't know the cost of the drilling but looking at your picture I had to have mine drilled 50' from the house, whie yours looks like it's right next to it.


It's 8 ft from the house, about 2 ft away from the old well lines, my reasoning for this is because 1 of the 5 times we ran out of water was because of my dumb### driving over the line everyday. I thought it would be ok but it drove the frost down like 8 ft!!!!!. It was an unusually cold winter this year and I want to insulate the pipe. Myself, and a few people I've talked to, agree that some 1" form board a foot or two above the line will stop that from happening. One guy around here did that and his line is only down 5 ft and he didn't have issues. Another reason is if I can't get my backhoe buddy I'll have to hire it out and obviously it's a lot cheaper to dig/trench 8 ft then 100ft.

Thanks for the link Egon.

So the trench/hole I'm planning on will be 8 ft long, 8-10 ft deep. The water line will go in, about a 1-2 ft of fill will be slightly packed and level, the foam board laid on that, then the rest of the fill will go in.
 
   / New Well #19  
1" of styrofoam is equal to 1 foot of dirt cover. Physically my well feed pipe is down 5' and I've got 3" of styrofoam on top of it. So in theory my pipe is down 8".
 

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