SUDT2 versus Universal Hydraulic Fluid

[TripleR]

I was considering AMSOIL synthetic. Would have only cost a couple dollars a gallon more. Maybe next time.

My brother and I tried synthetics quite a few years ago and were unimpressed, but I think they've mde a lot of progress since then and may try Amsoil or some other synthetic, my new car uses synthetic.

 

[DT86]

Richard,

A trick I picked up (probably from TBN) is to also engage the PTO to churn the fluid a bit while it's warming up. Not sure how much it helps but I doubt it hurts.

 

[Onemoreokie]

So you put in sudt and not sudt2? I've read the biggest improvement when using sudt2....

Sorry, yes I put in SUDT2.

 

[xring100]

Bummer Dave. I was hoping to improve the cold operations a little. Once it gets below freezing my happy butt stays in the heated shop along with the tractor. I've gotten used to starting the tractor, leave trans in neutral, shuttle lever in forward and let it circulate for a few minutes to warm up.

Having never run anything other than SUDT2 I cant compare to what your experiencing. Maybe the issue wont be as severe for you. It definitely has the issues you described.


I've got about 225 hours before the expensive 600 hour fluid change. Makes me cringe just thinking about it. I'll probably go with AMSOIL all around. I already run it in the engine and front axle.

 

[TripleR]

Having never run anything other than SUDT2 I cant compare to what your experiencing. Maybe the issue wont be as severe for you. It definitely has the issues you described.


I've got about 225 hours before the expensive 600 hour fluid change. Makes me cringe just thinking about it. I'll probably go with AMSOIL all around. I already run it in the engine and front axle.

What do you use now for change intervals using Amsoil?

 

[ovrszd]

Richard,

A trick I picked up (probably from TBN) is to also engage the PTO to churn the fluid a bit while it's warming up. Not sure how much it helps but I doubt it hurts.

Derek, hadn't thought of that, good idea!!!

 

[ovrszd]

My brother and I tried synthetics quite a few years ago and were unimpressed, but I think they've mde a lot of progress since then and may try Amsoil or some other synthetic, my new car uses synthetic.

I run Mobil 1 in wife's Jeep, Rhino, Wood Splitter, Power Washer. Here's my unscientific thoughts...... When you drain dino oil and catch some on your finger it barely creates a lubricated feel between your fingers. When you drain Synthetic oil and catch some on your finger it feels just as slick as when it's installed???

 

[xring100]

What do you use now for change intervals using Amsoil?

Hi TripleR,
I still change the engine oil at 300 hours. I will probably double the front axle. Although I might drain a little bit out of each of the plugs to get any moisture out that may have settled. If I change the hydro oil out I would pay to have it tested after 600 hours to have an Oil analysis done. If it really doubles the life 17 gallons of oil pays to have it tested. Would save hundreds of dollars. I would not arbitrarily extended the hydraulic oil life. Differential oil I'm not worried about.

 

[TripleR]

I run Mobil 1 in wife's Jeep, Rhino, Wood Splitter, Power Washer. Here's my unscientific thoughts...... When you drain dino oil and catch some on your finger it barely creates a lubricated feel between your fingers. When you drain Synthetic oil and catch some on your finger it feels just as slick as when it's installed???

We tried Royal Purple, Bel Ray and a brand I can't remember, my truck burned it like you wouldn't believe and my brother did some tear downs and over a couple of years or so swapped back, I'm sure synthetics are much better now.

Hi TripleR,
I still change the engine oil at 300 hours. I will probably double the front axle. Although I might drain a little bit out of each of the plugs to get any moisture out that may have settled. If I change the hydro oil out I would pay to have it tested after 600 hours to have an Oil analysis done. If it really doubles the life 17 gallons of oil pays to have it tested. Would save hundreds of dollars. I would not arbitrarily extended the hydraulic oil life. Differential oil I'm not worried about.

Thanks, I bought a new Toyota last year that came with synthetic and the change interval on my 2006 is every 5000 and the 2013 is every 10000, so I wasn't sure what the situation wold be with tractors.

 

[HEC]

When my M9540 had 50hrs on it I changed hydraulic/trans fluid and put in Universal Hydraulic Fluid. $6 per gallon.

The most noticeable thing was slow movement when cranked cold (30 degrees F). Also got some whining if engine was revved before warming. A little hard to shift gears unless the foot clutch was depressed as well as hydraulic shuttle shifted to neutral.

$21 peAt 600hrs I changed hydraulic/trans fluid again and put in SUDT2. r . Only having operated the tractor in warm weather I can't address the cold issues yet. I do notice it's egallonasier to shift gears. Also changes direction a little smoother when using the hydraulic shuttle without foot clutch. I didn't notice any difference in hydraulic functions such as FEL or TnT.

Can't make a totally fair assessment until I operate the tractor in cold weather. I've read all the "fluid war" threads and thought I'd get some first hand experience.

Today, not worth the cost difference. Might feel better about it next Winter

If you only paid $21 per gal you got a good deal , my dealer charged me $30

 

[ovrszd]

If you only paid $21 per gal you got a good deal , my dealer charged me $30

I struggled with $21. Ain't bad if you only need a couple gallons. But I bought 20.....

 

[ovrszd]

Larry, I don't know if synthetics are better now or not. I've heard other stories of engines buring synthetic. Usually it's if used in a new engine. Story I got was synthetic wouldn't let the rings seat???

I'm certainly not a defender of synthetic. I thought I'd try it in the 9540 and see if it's worth all the hype.

In Terry's vehicle I run 7K miles between changes so that almost offsets the cost difference. No big gain.

I run Rotella 15w-40 in the Powerstroke. Change at 3K miles. Since it's at 180K miles kinda hate to change the plan now since it's obviously worked.

Hear so many stories, I have no idea what's best. I'd say if whatever a person is doing is working, continue.

I think for us OCD people, we probably change the oil before it needs changed regardless of oil type. For those that don't maintain their vehicles, it doesn't matter what they use because they just keep adding, or run until it eats itself.

I actually think in the average engine you could just change the filter periodically and add oil as needed and get along fine.....

 

[TripleR]

Larry, I don't know if synthetics are better now or not. I've heard other stories of engines buring synthetic. Usually it's if used in a new engine. Story I got was synthetic wouldn't let the rings seat???

I'm certainly not a defender of synthetic. I thought I'd try it in the 9540 and see if it's worth all the hype.

In Terry's vehicle I run 7K miles between changes so that almost offsets the cost difference. No big gain.

I run Rotella 15w-40 in the Powerstroke. Change at 3K miles. Since it's at 180K miles kinda hate to change the plan now since it's obviously worked.

Hear so many stories, I have no idea what's best. I'd say if whatever a person is doing is working, continue.

I think for us OCD people, we probably change the oil before it needs changed regardless of oil type. For those that don't maintain their vehicles, it doesn't matter what they use because they just keep adding, or run until it eats itself.

I actually think in the average engine you could just change the filter periodically and add oil as needed and get along fine.....

I tend to agree, we have a Massey Ferguson 375 my father in law bought new in the mid 80's and his idea of maintenance was "every few years", after he died my mother in law saw no need to do anything different. After her passing, I moved it out to one of our other farms where my brother uses and maintains it. He's a mechanic and checked it over prepared to do a lot of work only to find the engine etc. in excellent condition; looks rough but runs great.

I'll never argue against regular maintenance, but am often amused at the dire warnings of some on impending doom if someone doesn't follow their recommendations.

Now I can't live like that but know people who do.

 

[haveissues]

I just changed out the oil in my b2620 to sudt2 a few days ago and the hst is a lot quieter.

 

[art]

Things we've learned about oils. There will always be people who doubt that there is a difference in oils as they are all the same but we have seen the differences over the years and oils that don't work and some that do. We have been involved with oil samples and work close with some farms for getting the best value which does mean we have and will substitute oil brands for performance to the owner. Many things in life come down to a pay me now or pay me later. We have found for many engines that when they start to consume oil it is because the oil is not good anymore.
The IH brand was the first to put hydro's into farm tractors and for many reasons I respect the CaseIH hytran fluid for transmissions for it's ability to deal with moisture issues we have with condensation here between the warm and cold seasons. With having sold the Red tractors and under warrantee we do stick with that brand of oil for warrantee piece of mind of not being challenged on it same as for other brands.
The Kubota hydraulic fluid has been the best performer for hydro's of all makes even the Case-NH chassis tractors. The noise is less and responsiveness is improved.
We do have generic oil in our stores for the older gear drives and it is fine for them and some do use it in hydro's although we are not going to recommend it, some just seem to think all oils are the same.

 

[ovrszd]

Art, going back to the older engines of the 50s, 60s and 70s, it seemed that they, as you stated, would start consuming oil as the oil aged. A change to new oil would often stop that useage until it too aged. I don't seem to see that as much with the modern engines. Another issue I've experienced with those older engines was they might drink one brand of oil and hardly use any if switched to a different brand.

My 7.3 Powerstroke with 180K miles uses less than 2 qts in 3K miles. And it seems to use that in the first 1K miles.

Terry's Chrysler 3.5L V6 with 250K miles on it running Mobil 1 synthetic didn't use any oil in 6K miles.

Neither of my tractors use any oil between changes running John Deere plus 50 oil.

 

[FTG-05]

I'm among the quality oil fans.

Little HST tractors, like a BX, balk at cheap fluid. I know. Changed out the cheap stuff after only 25 hours on it. That doesn't make it very cheap. Kubota SUDT made everything hum again.

Older gear drive tractors don't seem to care about the quality. The FEL and 3PH of my old L3650 functioned just fine.

Larger new tractors that have a lot of hydraulics involved (hydraulic clutch like on the M-series) really are sensitive, almost like a HST. The hydraulics in the clutch was noisy and stiff with cheap fluid in the M7040. Once again, changed it out after only a few hours.

My L48 TLB hydraulics would shake and shudder when the hydraulics got hot. Changed it out to Amsoil ($$$$$) and haven't had a problem since.

Oh, and to you folks that change the filter and leave in the old hydraulic fluid...good luck.

"It is the cheapest person that ends up paying the most" is a good canard for this situation.

I got my L4330 at 510 hours and it's coming up on it's 600 hour mark. I have no clue when (or if) the hydraulic fluid was changed at the 400 hour mark and no way to find out (previous owner passed just after the sale).

Do you think I just change out the entire hydraulic fluid at 600 hours,not just the filter? I currently have 2.5 gallons of SUDT2 (at $55), so I'd need to buy about 6 more gallons (total of 8 gallons for the L4330, from memory).

Thanks,

 

[C4Ranch]

My vote would be to do it. If it wasn't done, I wouldn't feel good about waiting till 800 hrs for the first change. if you don't, if you're like me, you're gonna sit around and wonder about it for possibly years.

When in doubt, change it out!

 

[FTG-05]

My vote would be to do it. If it wasn't done, I wouldn't feel good about waiting till 800 hrs for the first change. if you don't, if you're like me, you're gonna sit around and wonder about it for possibly years.

When in doubt, change it out!

Yea, I suspected as soon as I hit the "submit" button, that this was gonna be one of those "stupidest question of the week/month/year" kinda questions....

 

[k0ua]

I got my L4330 at 510 hours and it's coming up on it's 600 hour mark. I have no clue when (or if) the hydraulic fluid was changed at the 400 hour mark and no way to find out (previous owner passed just after the sale).

Do you think I just change out the entire hydraulic fluid at 600 hours,not just the filter? I currently have 2.5 gallons of SUDT2 (at $55), so I'd need to buy about 6 more gallons (total of 8 gallons for the L4330, from memory).

Thanks,

I would change it out. Yeah, I know easy for me to spend YOUR money, but truthfully, I would really change it out if it was mine. Then you will know.