Will this one arm loader fit my 881?

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Now that the garden is in (2000 sq ft!), I have some time to turn my attention back to the loader. I need to find a hydraulic hose for it and was hoping to order it today, but I wasn't able to examine my tractor last night to look at what my connection looks like. I'd like to use a quick connect as well.

Let me preface this question by saying I've never worked on hydraulics of any kind before, so I apologize in advance if I sound clueless, because I sort of am.

The parts manual shows that the hydraulic hose is pn 7000265. Googled this all over the place and came up empty. The only information listed is that the hose is 3/8" x 58 1/8". Doesn't state the pressure rating or what type of fittings are at the ends. Any drawings or pics I've found of the hose in any of the manuals are too grainy for me determine what kind of fittings they are.

My question is, will this hose meet my needs or is there a better one out there? Are the male fittings the correct type?

For those who have done work with hydraulics before, can you point me to the correct quick connect/disconnect?

Here are some pictures I have on file (sorry I don't have a better ones handy) of the hydraulic set-up on my tractor.




Thanks in advance!

 

[Soundguy]

ok.. refresh my memory. it's bee a while since i looked at this thread and i browse from a phone.. so not easy to go back thru to find the info.

you are adding a 1-arm to an 801 ford tractor? right?

looks like you already have a remove valve with quick disconnects.

does your loader have a hyd bucket or trip bucket?

if hyd.. you will need 1 spool setup lift/drop hoses for that cyl. and then a lift only hose for the single acting big cyl. that big cyl is pipe thread 3/8
the line you use to run the lift cyl really should be put into fast drop mode.. ie. made for a sa cyl.. otherwise when you driop the cyl, the pump will be in relief and whine.

if it is a trip bucket.. then you only need 1 line period. lift to t he big cyl.

looks like you have a 2 spool valve. and hard to tell.. but looks like one spool feeds a small manifold and 2 hoses on the left of the pic. hard to see what is fed on the right. in any case. undoubtedly that valve, a common style.. has 2 DA circuits.. and one of the DA circuits can be made SA by turning a adjuster screw on the front of the unit.

can't tell you what your bucket cyl might be.. cause frankly.. they get replaced alot and could be anything.

most common onthe old ones are 3/8 pipe for that size.

 

[Soundguy]

ok.. refresh my memory. it's bee a while since i looked at this thread and i browse from a phone.. so not easy to go back thru to find the info.

you are adding a 1-arm to an 801 ford tractor? right?

looks like you already have a remove valve with quick disconnects.

does your loader have a hyd bucket or trip bucket?

if hyd.. you will need 1 spool setup lift/drop hoses for that cyl. and then a lift only hose for the single acting big cyl. that big cyl is pipe thread 3/8
the line you use to run the lift cyl really should be put into fast drop mode.. ie. made for a sa cyl.. otherwise when you driop the cyl, the pump will be in relief and whine.

if it is a trip bucket.. then you only need 1 line period. lift to t he big cyl.

looks like you have a 2 spool valve. and hard to tell.. but looks like one spool feeds a small manifold and 2 hoses on the left of the pic. hard to see what is fed on the right. in any case. undoubtedly that valve, a common style.. has 2 DA circuits.. and one of the DA circuits can be made SA by turning a adjuster screw on the front of the unit.

can't tell you what your bucket cyl might be.. cause frankly.. they get replaced alot and could be anything.

most common onthe old ones are 3/8 pipe for that size.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

ok.. refresh my memory. it's bee a while since i looked at this thread and i browse from a phone.. so not easy to go back thru to find the info.

you are adding a 1-arm to an 801 ford tractor? right?

looks like you already have a remove valve with quick disconnects.

does your loader have a hyd bucket or trip bucket?

if hyd.. you will need 1 spool setup lift/drop hoses for that cyl. and then a lift only hose for the single acting big cyl. that big cyl is pipe thread 3/8
the line you use to run the lift cyl really should be put into fast drop mode.. ie. made for a sa cyl.. otherwise when you driop the cyl, the pump will be in relief and whine.

if it is a trip bucket.. then you only need 1 line period. lift to t he big cyl.

looks like you have a 2 spool valve. and hard to tell.. but looks like one spool feeds a small manifold and 2 hoses on the left of the pic. hard to see what is fed on the right. in any case. undoubtedly that valve, a common style.. has 2 DA circuits.. and one of the DA circuits can be made SA by turning a adjuster screw on the front of the unit.

can't tell you what your bucket cyl might be.. cause frankly.. they get replaced alot and could be anything.

most common onthe old ones are 3/8 pipe for that size.

Yes, I am connecting a Ford 711 loader to my Ford 881 tractor. As you know, the 711 has the trip bucket.

And yes, I plan to put the cylinder into the fast drop mode which, if I understand you correctly is done by converting the DA circuit to SA as you described.

Although I plan to add a hydraulic bucket in the future (once I learn how to weld), for the immediate future, I'm just interested in getting the single lift cylinder working.

The crux of my question, then, is whether the hose that I linked to above is the right hose for the job. I found a 60" hose but it was triple the price compared to this 72" hose. And do I need any other fittings or other hardware to connect it up to my hydraulic valve or to the loader itself?

 

[Cbrown9064]

Yes, I am connecting a Ford 711 loader to my Ford 881 tractor. As you know, the 711 has the trip bucket.

And yes, I plan to put the cylinder into the fast drop mode which, if I understand you correctly is done by converting the DA circuit to SA as you described.

Although I plan to add a hydraulic bucket in the future (once I learn how to weld), for the immediate future, I'm just interested in getting the single lift cylinder working.

The crux of my question, then, is whether the hose that I linked to above is the right hose for the job. I found a 60" hose but it was triple the price compared to this 72" hose. And do I need any other fittings or other hardware to connect it up to my hydraulic valve or to the loader itself?

So the quick answer (and smart *** one) is only you know! . What I mean by that is if you have 3/8 female pipe thread on both ends, then yes, this hose with 3/8 male pipe threads will work. 4000 psi is enough.

If you don't have 3/8 FTP on both ends, then you will have to get some adapters. Use ones designed for high pressure hydros and not cast iron water or natural gas (low pressure) fittings. Some of the pipe and fittings you find in big box stores are not high pressure. There is black pipe (steel) that is high pressure. Don't use galvanized.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

So the quick answer (and smart *** one) is only you know! . What I mean by that is if you have 3/8 female pipe thread on both ends, then yes, this hose with 3/8 male pipe threads will work. 4000 psi is enough.

If you don't have 3/8 FTP on both ends, then you will have to get some adapters. Use ones designed for high pressure hydros and not cast iron water or natural gas (low pressure) fittings. Some of the pipe and fittings you find in big box stores are not high pressure. There is black pipe (steel) that is high pressure. Don't use galvanized.

I checked last night and it looks like I have female fittings at both ends, and I think (I was looking in the dark) that there is a functional quick disconnect on the tractor side, so that's promising. I went ahead and ordered the hose.

Wish I had more time to work on this.

 

[Soundguy]

it sure looked like your hyds had qd.s just get a matching qd end to fit, and the hose sized for the cyl and that's it.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

When buying hydraulic fluid for this loader/tractor combo, what are the relevant and recommended specs for the fluid? Never bought hydraulic fluid before so I don't know much about it. How much do I need to buy?

 

[Soundguy]

use utf fluid that meets m2c134 spec. it's fine in hyds, trannies, power steering, diffy, and loader sump.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

He is talking about the stiffner piece with the 3 holes about 10" long that bolts to the front bracket and then up thru the hole and connect with to the studs that hold the axle carrier to the block using lug nuts. The stupid post office busted the box and that piece was gone. I had to fabricate him up another on. This is the stud he's talking abiout.

So for the bottom stud, I removed it and replaced with a screw and lockwasher. Seems to fit nicely.
For the top stud - the nut came off and the stud stayed behind. The stud is too short so that I cannot screw the nut down enough to engage the full threaded length of the nut. I'd like to remove the stud and replace with a screw but I'll need to track down a stud extractor apparently.

The 3" bracket with holes on each side goes under the tranny in the two bolt holes. One side holds the bracket that goes to the tab mount at the botom of the frame.

You're referring to items 16 & 20, correct?
So the long one attaches to the tab on the loader (shown in Group 3-1) and connects to the short one which screws into the underside of the tranny? Is it a nut & bolt connection between the long bracket and the short bracket? Or is a hitch-pin what is typically used there? I would think it would be set up for quick detachment.

Yes, it's 6 months later and just now getting to it. I've got all the other brackets loosely mounted - just these two left.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

So for the bottom stud, I removed it and replaced with a screw and lockwasher. Seems to fit nicely.
For the top stud - the nut came off and the stud stayed behind. The stud is too short so that I cannot screw the nut down enough to engage the full threaded length of the nut. I'd like to remove the stud and replace with a screw but I'll need to track down a stud extractor apparently.

The stiffener has two holes that are countersunk for use with the the lug nuts I sent you. They should tighten down nicely with existing studs. That said I don't know what you have on the tractor cause things get change around a lot on these old tractors. I think if you are going to go with bolts I would use a flat piece of steel instead of the one with the countersunk holes although I guess case hardened flat washer over the countersunk hole might work. A word of caution bolt should be the length you need and not longer in the bottom hole because the hole is a dead end hole. If too long you risk busting the ear on the block or striping the treads. Top hole goes clear thru so you can even use a long bolt and back it up with a nut.


You're referring to items 16 & 20, correct?
So the long one attaches to the tab on the loader (shown in Group 3-1) and connects to the short one which screws into the underside of the tranny? Is it a nut & bolt connection between the long bracket and the short bracket? Or is a hitch-pin what is typically used there? I would think it would be set up for quick detachment.

16 & 20 connect as diagram shows. Then the end of the long bracket is bolted to the loader frame tab. This is used to stabilize the unit when lifting. There is no quick release pin for this and would not use one. It would waddle out the hole and make the loader more unstable causing more stress on the trans mount pin.

BTW the 711 also came with a hyd bucket that's why Chris was asking which bucket you had. A 6' hose might be a bit to long. A quick disconnect at or near the valve is worth spending the extra money on if you are planning on taking the loader on and off.

 

[Soundguy]

instead of a stud extractor, a blip of weld on the nut to stud should yank her out.

 

[Soundguy]

. A 6' hose might be a bit to long. A quick disconnect at or near the valve is worth spending the extra money on if you are planning on taking the loader on and off.

ditto that for sure!