Pergola Wobbly

   / Pergola Wobbly #11  
The 2x6's on the ends don't offer any strength in preventing movement toward and away from the house. The ends need bracing more like the sides - something forming a triangle. Picture how flimsy a cardboard box is with all the flaps cut off.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #12  
You'd gain a ton more rigidity by face nailing the diagonal corner braces. The way they are nailed now, they will provide little to no bracing.

That 4x4 header beam is a real waste; a 2x6 or 2x8 combo would have been so much better.

Finally, if you get any storms out there with wind, start thinking about uplift and put in some strapping or ties.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #13  
Also, if the roof is as flat as it looks, you need to put a pitch on it.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #14  
I would be afraid in a decent wind storm that thing is coming down
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #15  
One solution might be to supplement the diagonal braces with triangular pieces of plywood. If you use plenty of screws all along the three sides it would stiffen it up considerably. You could even fancy up the triangles with siding to match the house.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #16  
One solution might be to supplement the diagonal braces with triangular pieces of plywood. If you use plenty of screws all along the three sides it would stiffen it up considerably. You could even fancy up the triangles with siding to match the house.
Also known as gussets.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #17  
Looks like a learning experience. We all have to start somewhere.

The previous comments are all good and I'm afraid with those who said you should take it down and try again. It's not going to last very long with the size lumber you used.

But if you want to see if you can salvage it, more diagonal bracing will lock it together. You only braced it in one direction.

With stand alone gazeboes, the bottom railing plays a huge factor in stabilizing the posts. Thousands of them are built with 4x4 posts, which are plenty strong enough to support the weight above them, but they are kind of flimsy for side to side stiffness. By creating a railing going in both directions, you lock the posts into position at the bottom. Even when sinking posts into the ground, they will move a little without a railing.

Eddie
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #18  
I take it no permit was pulled either. If the city gets wind of this (and they will) you could be in for a world of hurt. Double permit fees plus they will make you tear it down.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #19  
I have to agree with those who said take it down and start over. I would use 6x6 treated posts set in concrete about 30-36" deep. The beams should be at least two 2x10 or 2x12 (bolted through the posts.) Rafters might be ok, but I can't tell what size they are, should be 2x8's minimum, maybe 2x10. Roof purlins are way undersized, I would use either 2x4s or 1x6 (full dimension) on 16-24" centers for that tin. The design of your bracing is ok, but it should be beefed up as previously suggested. Some diagonal bracing on the two ends wouldn't hurt either, since it's not attached to the house.
 
   / Pergola Wobbly #20  
I built this pergola about 9 years ago.

Patio BBQ-1.JPGPatio BBQ-2.JPGPatio BBQ-3.JPG

Used Simpson post bases in concrete. The main structure is bolted together with 1/2" hex bolts/nuts. Braces are attached with 1/2" lag bolts. Every few years I tighten the bolts. No wobbles at all.

Good luck
 

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