New trailer build

[pjb09]

Did you consider installing brakes on both axles? I recently added brakes to the second axle of a 16' trailer I use for my tractor (not as nice a design as yours :c).

Sure makes stopping better and they are not expensive.

bumper

Most of the time I won't be carrying more than 3500 lbs and a single brake axle behind my 1 ton dually should be fine. If I find I want more brakes on the trailer I can add second set of brake drums. Second axle has the brake plates in place.

The trailer design came a company in Australia. Had to change the A Frame. They use a 32 degree angle instead of 50.

 

[pjb09]

How much do you have in materials versus what a factory build one costs?

I have about 2700 into it including tax. Local price including tax would be close to 4000.
I saved almost 600 by buying axel, brakes, fenders, coupler, lights etc from Cerka in Ontario instead of locally from Princess auto

 

[Shield Arc]

Arc welds suggestion of drilling weep holes in the bottom of the tubes is a really good one!:thumbsup: He always has good ideas!

 

[pjb09]

Arc welds suggestion of drilling weep holes in the bottom of the tubes is a really good one!:thumbsup: He always has good ideas!

I have capped all tube ends and there won't be any screws piercing the tube. Built indoors. Welding should have driven most moisture from inside the tube. I can still drill if necessary, but won't that introduce a new entry point for moisture?

 

[pjb09]

A Few more pictures.
After welding the spring hangers I noticed a 3/4 draw in the stringers. Not good! The plans called for stitch welds between the 2x6 rail and the 2x6 angle. I did a continuous weld, and monitored the draw as I progressed. Started in the middle and worked my way to the ends. By the time I had a continuous weld all the way both rails were perfect.

 

[DRL]

If you are going to have brakes on one axel they need to be on the rear axel. Brakes on that style spring set up shifts weight to rear axel. Ask me how I know. I added brakes to front axel of mine and you could lock them up and not feel the truck slow down at all. Did not think they were working until I saw all the tire smoke in the mirror.

DRL

 

[Shield Arc]

I have capped all tube ends and there won't be any screws piercing the tube. Built indoors. Welding should have driven most moisture from inside the tube. I can still drill if necessary, but won't that introduce a new entry point for moisture?

That's one of those catch 22s. If you live in an area with lost of condensation I would sure think about weep holes.

A Few more pictures.View attachment 379535View attachment 379535
After welding the spring hangers I noticed a 3/4 draw in the stringers. Not good! The plans called for stitch welds between the 2x6 rail and the 2x6 angle. I did a continuous weld, and monitored the draw as I progressed. Started in the middle and worked my way to the ends. By the time I had a continuous weld all the way both rails were perfect.

I really like to back step my welds, skip around a lot. An place opposing welds when I can, to help with distortion

 

[pjb09]

More pics



Wouldn't fit thru doors, had to out it on a dolly and use forklift to pull outside.

 

[pjb09]

If you are going to have brakes on one axel they need to be on the rear axel. Brakes on that style spring set up shifts weight to rear axel. Ask me how I know. I added brakes to front axel of mine and you could lock them up and not feel the truck slow down at all. Did not think they were working until I saw all the tire smoke in the mirror.

DRL

I've heard both front and rear axle from a number of people. Decided to investigate further. Called my axle supplier. They (Cerka - axle manufacturer) and Dexter both say put it on the front. Weight shifts to front on braking and you want weight on brake axle. I know this is a big debate on other forums, but when the manufacturers say put it on the front I have to put it on the front.

 

[pjb09]

That's one of those catch 22s. If you live in an area with lost of condensation I would sure think about weep holes.





I really like to back step my welds, skip around a lot. An place opposing welds when I can, to help with distortion

That's basically what I did except I concentrated in the middle first so I could moniter the progress of removing the warp. I figured when I had it almost all out I would switch back to stitch welding. It took continuous welds both sides to remove the warp. It can out perfectly straight to my relief. It's amazing how much draw you can get from mounting three spring hangers.