Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed

[CNC Dan]

Two 110/120v receptacles in the same box would normally be on the same circuit, but two boxes in the same room, even along the same wall, are frequently wired on separate circuits so that the room will still have power if one breaker trips. Even then, though, you are right that they must be on different legs at the service panel in order to have 220/240v. Then it will work o.k., and it's easy to make up a pigtail to do it. Joining two 120v outlets that are on separate circuits but on the same side of the service panel will give us 120v.

Either way, doubt there are many local fire marshals or electrical inspectors that would be o.k. with it. I've seen it used for very temporary applications (e.g., 220v floor sanders, 220v metal and woodworking machines at shows). There is big safety issue, as the breakers are not ganged together with a bridge bar as in a regular 220v breaker, so one side can trip, while the other side stays hot.

That's the magic. Inside of the box there is something to prevent one input cords prongs from being 'live' when the other cord is plugged in. And something to prevent the load from getting any power unless you have two out of phase 120 circiuts. It has a UL aproval.

 

[Sodo]

When discussing 120v MIGs, a large percentage of the advice offered is based on zero experience, failed attempts, and assertions by beginner stick-welders, and internet lore too. With that theres a high possibility of off-topic departures, further adding difficulty to the member picking thru 120v MIG advice. Now another strange departure, electrical wiring monkey-business to get 220v that a 120v welder does not need. The 120v owner is just about free from wiring concerns or costs, which is one of the reasons for choosing 120v. Adding a 220v outlet to the welding area can easily add $500 to your cost of operating a 220v welder (or even thousands if a panel must be upgraded).

It appears that the subject of "120v MIG" may signals "newbie" and there is an unwritten forum desire to help newbies, in fact often a newbie with even a little experience often jumps in to help a really green newbie. It's a human desire to help and that's good but can add confusion.

Anyway, back to the TOPIC, which is "Welding 3/16" & 1/4" with 120v wire-feed".

My Miller135 says (in the owners manual) that a 20A circuit is required. In WA state, residential garages & kitchens may be on 20A circuits while the rest of the rooms in the house are often 15A circuits. I suspect that a 15A circuit might supply the machine in some of the lower 'thickness' settings, but you're better off looking at your panel and choosing a 20A circuit (as the owners manual specifies DIRECTLY) to use the full capacity of the machine. And if you MUST use an ext cord, it should be a minimum 20A cord and as short as you can get away with. (Sorry have no info or experience with a Century or Chicago other dept store welder)

Using a 15A circuit (25%less!) or a 15A extension cord may be one of the reasons some 220v folks conclude that a 120v welder can't work.

 

[Reverser]

When discussing 120v MIGs, advice seems to be primarily based on zero experience, failed attempts, and assertions by beginner stick-welders, or other off-topic departures, further adding to difficulty picking thru 120v MIG advice. Now there's a new strange departure, electrical wiring monkey-business to get 220v that a 120v welder does not need or even care about. It's the 220v owner's responsibility to solve the problems of use his desired machine. The 120v owner is just about free from that concern, 120v is mostly "easy" and much less cost than adding a 220v outlet to the welding area. For my example, I weld in my driveway.

Here we go again! :laughing:

 

[Threepoint]

That's the magic. Inside of the box there is something to prevent one input cords prongs from being 'live' when the other cord is plugged in. And something to prevent the load from getting any power unless you have two out of phase 120 circiuts. It has a UL aproval.

Ah, yes, Dan, I missed the UL approval in your earlier post. Very neat. Circuitry in the pigtail "black box" would be a way to solve the issue of just one breaker tripping. For that matter, I suppose adding a standard 220v breaker at the pigtail, fed by the two separate legs, might also do it.

Sorry, Sodo, for the unsuccessful hijack. I see you're getting us back on track.

 

[haveissues]

I have to say, my shop would be much less fun without 220. No plasma cutter, mill, much smaller compressor, welders. That being said I did keep my 120v mig even though it hasn't been powered on since I bought the 220v. It will get some use however when I have to stack my 2 propane tanks for wood boiler hot water storage. I'll have to weld the brackets in place at the house and simply don't feel like huffing the big welder up there.

 

[allen6634]

I don't understand all the skepticism. :confused2:

After all, it's only an ATV hitch. And I don't think he'll be pulling his tractor behind it on the highway.
Besides, I think his weld looks pretty good and will probably suit his purpose fine. :thumbsup:

i agree with you , i think his hitch looks great , and i would like to offer my opinion , ithink that the 110 welders are for that type of work ( light duty) this is why i don't own one any way great job on your hitch

 

[Sodo]

ithink that the 110 welders are for that type of work ( light duty) this is why i don't own one

Thanks for your note, your intuition is correct, a good 120v MIG is rated for up to 1/4" steel. To carry my eqpt I have a 19 foot car trailer that weighs 1600 lbs, has payload 5400lbs, its a common lighter weight car trailer. The material this trailer is built with is mostly between 3/16 and 1/4".

 

[Arc weld]

What 120 volt MIG is rated for 1/4"? A Millermatic 140 is a top of the line 120 volt and it's only rated for 3/16" max.:confused2:

 

[haveissues]

What 120 volt MIG is rated for 1/4"? A Millermatic 140 is a top of the line 120 volt and it's only rated for 3/16" max.:confused2:

3/16 is what the manual says but they will actually weld much thicker. All of the companies do that to make you buy their larger and more expensive machines. Miller even pays off tractorbynet and other forums to block all searches that contain '120v' and 'mig' together. Since the larger machines are too expensive for the average DIYr it forces people to go to a pro to have their stuff welded and the end result is PROFIT for miller and welders. You are all in cahoots! It's a CONSPIRACY and it is out of the bag now!

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

3/16 is what the manual says but they will actually weld much thicker. All of the companies do that to make you buy their larger and more expensive machines. Miller even pays off tractorbynet and other forums to block all searches that contain '120v' and 'mig' together. Since the larger machines are too expensive for the average DIYr it forces people to go to a pro to have their stuff welded and the end result is PROFIT for miller and welders. You are all in cahoots! It's a CONSPIRACY and it is out of the bag now!

Hahahahahah!!!!
Thanks for the chuckle this morning