The engine didn't run without oil all the time it was draining. It likely took about a minute for all the oil to drain so some oil was still circulating until the level got too low for the sump pump to pick it up.
Surely you did some damage or at least extra wear to the engine, but if it isn't knocking or making any funny noise, I doubt that you caused damage severe enough to cause immediate or near future catastrophic failure. The rod bearings would likely be the first to go and the piston rings. Keep an eye on the oil usage and if it is not using any oil, the rings must be ok. If rod bearings, it will develop a knock and even a low sounding knock is time to shut it down and overhaul it before you throw a rod thru the block.
I don't know if your engine has hydraulic lifters but if so, they are likely the cause for shutdown due to lack of oil and perhaps they shut down prior to any major damage happening.
I agree with Gary Fowler--provided that the engine DOES have hydraulic lifters.
And I would challenge the individual who does not agree with Gary,
specifically Cherokee140 (quoted below) to answer this question:
Whenever you have heard a hydraulic lifter-equipped engine (think V-8) with a "collapsed lfter" misfiring/not firing, due TO that collapsed lifter, why would you NOT think that a small, 3 cylinder engine would also STALL if NONE of the lifters had oil, so that ALL of them were "collapsed" and thus NOT opening/closing the valves?
And secondly, Cherokee140, Why do you say this?
Disagree, ask yourself one question, would you pay going market price for this machine.
....*snip*....
And it will run just fine with not a drop of oil in it....the lifters will work just fine..
Again, why, ASSUMING they are hydraulic lifters, do you assert that "...the lifters will work just fine."?
Because, if the lifters ARE hydrualic, then they would have
collapsed, in which case they would, in effect, function as a "low oil" shutoff. Admittedly, it's not one that could be counted on to "kick in" before there as ANY chance of damage, unlike an electronic, oil-level sensor, or an electronic pressure-switch-driven sensor. But why do you posit that the engine's lifters would continue to "lift" if they were hydraulic?
Best of luck to the OP:
And were it me, I'd be on the blower to Kubota Corporate, to ask an engineer IF the engine in fact DOES have hydraulic lifters. And I'd run the scenario by him/her, as well, just to see what the "slide-rule types" think. I'm betting they'd even welcome your real-world story as a welcome relief from their "how do we decontent these tractors to save money, to satisfy the BEAN COUNTERS,
today?, hum-drum.
I'm in the camp that thinks you got away with it, particularly under Gary Fowler's "collapsed lifter" scenario. Thanks for sharing.
(And not to "pile on," but expandable, rubber plugs belong in the bilge-drain of a boat--then the only thing that can happen, if they fail, is sinking and possible death-by-drowning!) Oh--and "hyrolocking" of the engine, if it "went down fighting." LOL :confused2:
Thanks, and good luck,
My Hoe
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Cherokee140 said:
;3780804Disagree, ask yourself one question, would you pay going market price for this machine.
And it will run just fine with not a drop of oil in it....the lifters will work just fine.
IMHO not good advice in this post at all, and I bet I have blown up more engines (Drag racing, then road racing) then any of you I would bet. You are going to destroy the cam, cam bearings, rod bearings, mains, rockers, pushrods, pistons....the list goes on and on. Think about it, how long do you think it takes to toast a bearing....a blink of an eye, I have seen pistons with no ring groves left that got shut down the sec the pressure went to nothing and the light went on. Yes it was wound a little tighter then 3k of our tractors, but the point is it takes no time at all....we will not get into the heat issue at all here.
I do agree that trading it off is bad karma, bad juju, negative vibes man....whatever. But I would be VERY leery on that motor. But I do think there are two ways to play this. Run it till it dies, or unload it. I doubt if you tell the dealer they will give you a good price on the tractor but your mind will be clear in that you did the right thing.
If you do keep it however I would change the oil at about 3-5 hours, little engines don't hold that much. I would do a pure synthetic and perhaps a tad more heavy weight oil.
Good luck to you.
My two bits, did not mean to tick anyone off with all this.