DK40SE Finally here and working!

[lubepimp]

So after a lot of dicking around with my bank and waiting on parts at the dealer, I finally have a working tractor! Spent some time yesterday ripping out some stumps, my first time with a backhoe, not as much power as perhaps I thought but got through some pretty nasty roots.

I have lots to get used to power-wise.....the HST is MUCH different than the old gearbox tractors I used to use, really seems to lack even when I was just driving up some small inclines. I hope it's not an issue come winter when I have to clear my steep driveway, which was the justification for getting the tractor.

Didn't put in too much work with the loader for clean-up but managed to bend the level indicator....something tells me that this must be common?

 

[k0ua]

So after a lot of dicking around with my bank and waiting on parts at the dealer, I finally have a working tractor! Spent some time yesterday ripping out some stumps, my first time with a backhoe, not as much power as perhaps I thought but got through some pretty nasty roots.

I have lots to get used to power-wise.....the HST is MUCH different than the old gearbox tractors I used to use, really seems to lack even when I was just driving up some small inclines. I hope it's not an issue come winter when I have to clear my steep driveway, which was the justification for getting the tractor.

Didn't put in too much work with the loader for clean-up but managed to bend the level indicator....something tells me that this must be common?
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That would't be the first level indicator bent up. I managed to bend mine the first 10 hours or so. I straightened it back up and re-installed. My indicator tube came apart is the reason I wadded mine up. I locktighted it and staked the threads. It looks like yours just got caught in something? With HST, when it has trouble going up a hill, back off of the forward pedal, do not press harder. If that won't make it up the hill shift to a lower range. Remember HI range is only for roading the tractor on relatively flat ground not for any work. Most work can be done in MED, and when you really need torque or to slow down the tractors speed response to the pedal, put it in LO.

 

[K man]

Yup kOua got it right on the head. You have to learn how to use your speed ranges to accomplish the most out of your machine. Good luck and have fun. As for the leveling rod well mine snapped off the moment the loader was lifted for the first time coming off the delivery truck lol. Someone had forgotten a couple of bolts or something like that.

 

[lubepimp]

Never thought of letting off the pedal, I'll give that a try. I've already worked my way through the different ranges with the small amount of work I've done and fully expect to need to do so going forward. More than anything I was caught off-guard as they really were small inclines which I didn't expect to be an issue in any gear.

I saw the thread about the rods as soon as I posted this one. My dealer has already said he'll be out to replace it as soon as they have one in stock, nice to see they are so responsive.

 

[k0ua]

Never thought of letting off the pedal, I'll give that a try. I've already worked my way through the different ranges with the small amount of work I've done and fully expect to need to do so going forward. More than anything I was caught off-guard as they really were small inclines which I didn't expect to be an issue in any gear.

I saw the thread about the rods as soon as I posted this one. My dealer has already said he'll be out to replace it as soon as they have one in stock, nice to see they are so responsive.

Mine was bent that bad or worse, and I just laid it out and straightened it by hand and with a small hammer. It is perfectly straight now. They seem to be pretty good metal.

Yes when your RPM's are starting to drop more than about 200 RPM's. is the time to let off of the pedal, and often the RPM's will go back up or at least stop falling. sure your ground speed will drop some, but your RPM's will stay up in the "power band" of the engine to make maximum power.

When the tractor starts to slow down, most people will press harder on the "go pedal" in an attempt to speed it up, but this is precisely the wrong thing to do as this just places more load on the engine and lets the engine RPM's fall out of the power band.

Of course when you back off, and the RPM's still continue to fall, you have attacked a hill in too steep of a gear (range).. Keep in mind the 3 speed transmission behind the hydrostatic pump/motor combination are just gears like in any tractor.

As an example with a traditional geared 8x8 transmission where you would have 8 forward gear ranges, you probably would not attack a steep hill in 8th gear would you? Likewise attacking a steep hill with a hydro machine in HI range usually does not work well, unless you have a lot of horsepower.

Of course the hydro transmission loses from 10 to 15 percent of its input power in heat and friction losses. When gear drive proponents say a gear machine puts more power to the ground with less losses in the driveline, they are correct. But the other advantages of hydrostat operation outweigh these disadvantages in my opinion.

 

[jtygoku]

Nice rig. Wish mine still looked that new. Be sure to put a wrench to all the loader frame bolts and nuts. Even though they may be tight after initial assembly, they do have a habit of working themselves loose.

 

[MotorSeven]

Lube, also work your HST at 2500 RPM's. If you are used to a gear tractor I bet you are running lower rpm's....HST's work better at higher rpm's. Even splitting logs I run it at 2200:

 

[lubepimp]

I was running the BH at 2500 rpm, and had it set around 1800-2000 when transporting/loader work. Should I keep it at 2500 for all tasks?

I've already learned from the loose nuts and one lost bolt that I'll be performing re-torquing frequently lol. Guess that';s why the delivery man told me the tool box was to keep my wrenches handy.

 

[k0ua]

I was running the BH at 2500 rpm, and had it set around 1800-2000 when transporting/loader work. Should I keep it at 2500 for all tasks?

I've already learned from the loose nuts and one lost bolt that I'll be performing re-torquing frequently lol. Guess that';s why the delivery man told me the tool box was to keep my wrenches handy.

I don't run at 2500 all the time, but when going up a hill, I sure crank its ear open. I vary the speed depending on what I want to do. For example light grading of gravel, where I am trying to hold a grade, and the tractor is pushing very little material and I want precise control I might be just doing 1600 rpm. But when you need power and torque you need to spin it up. As for the wheel and loader bolts, eventually they will settle in, but until they do, you need to check at least every 50 hours, and maybe sooner.. But in general, yes Hydro's will benefit from higher RPM's.

 

[lubepimp]

The good advice keeps coming! Thanks guys!