is it fixable or do you need parts, parked 10 yrs after loader connect pins broke

[Ilikeurtractor]

Can someone tell me what this controls.

It says what each one does right under the switches - LOL. Which then begs the question, if the labels for the controls are in Japanese then why is the Iseki name in English letters???? It would seem odd that if I had a John Deere, for example, that it would be written in Japanese and everything else on it in English.

 

[Outakuntrol]

Just had an offer for 3 $350. Think I will get a Manuel and put some work into it. Thanks for the push I needed to get it taken care of. Ivan it is a 3 cylinder. The pins are cast and weak. Everything attached to those pins are heavy steel. Only the pin broke nothing else major. Anyone have one like this?

 

[Ivan49]

Just had an offer for 3 $350. Think I will get a Manuel and put some work into it. Thanks for the push I needed to get it taken care of. Ivan it is a 3 cylinder. The pins are cast and weak. Everything attached to those pins are heavy steel. Only the pin broke nothing else major. Anyone have one like this?

Do you know what the HP is. I have a White 31 made by Iseki and it may be the same tractor or close to it. My loader fastens on with a heavy steel belly band with posts on each side. My loader is a Bush Hog so it is a different style but should mount similar. You are wise to keep it as anything can be fixed.
I checked on mine I have the same two posts. My loader bracket is bolt to the 2 posts on each side of the tractor and then it has a flat plate of steel under the tractor connecting the two brackets. If this piece is missing that may have been the problem. I know of a smaller one that was sold and the dealer did not put this piece on it and it broke the post off. He replaced the bell housing as the tractor was new

 

[Outakuntrol]

I did not see a belly band. One would have helped. I'll get some pics of the underneath. The horse power I'm guessing is 200. Specs on injector pump. Specs sheet under hood bonnet with wiring diagram. The spec says TL

 

[Outakuntrol]

Spec under hood. See numbers an who knows what everything's right here lol

 

[mjw357]

View attachment 382670I did not see a belly band. One would have helped. I'll get some pics of the underneath. The horse power I'm guessing is 200. Specs on injector pump. Specs sheet under hood bonnet with wiring diagram. The spec says TL

I think that says '200 hr' as in oil change interval. No way anyone would put a 200 hp diesel engine in that little tractor. Probably in the low 20 hp range.

As for the switch box with all japanese labels on it, where does that wire go?

There's no way I'd scrap that little tractor, definitely worth fixing up.

 

[Outakuntrol]

200hr and 145cc sounds better. Now that is what I'm seeing. Drained the oil no metal and looked like oil. In town tomorrow will get filters and oil also getting a battery. I might just surprise myself. Would be nice if she ran. Any advice on fluids and starting fluid or not?

 

[Ivan49]

200hr and 145cc sounds better. Now that is what I'm seeing. Drained the oil no metal and looked like oil. In town tomorrow will get filters and oil also getting a battery. I might just surprise myself. Would be nice if she ran. Any advice on fluids and starting fluid or not?

I would not use starting fluid on it. You need to figure out how to use the glow plugs. Can you take a picture of your dash as you sit in the seat, On mine the key turns backwards for the glow plugs. There is a round cover and under it there is a coil that gets red when the glow plugs have warmed the cylinders. I am guessing that your HP may be around 25 to 27 hp

 

[Happy Gilmore]

Keep us posted as to how it goes, wish you luck.

 

[Kernopelli]

To answer one of your questions....the bell housing should be dry. As far as fixing the pins, it is cast and not easy to weld correctly.....but I think if you find the right guy, they can be fixed. Worst case scenario is you get them welded back on to keep the bell housing dry and reasonably strong structurally and either leave the loader off or fabricate different mounts..... which I would be working on a better mounting system anyway.

If it was running good when parked and it didn't get water in the engine, I bet fresh fuel and filter, oil and a fresh battery will have you up and running. NO way I'd take $350 for it, that's close to the price I had to pay for a used hydraulic pump for mine.....lots of good parts there if nothing else. Here is a link on how to bleed the 3AE1 engine http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/iseki/327463d1373828160-tl-1900-a-tk8q-jpg One thing to watch for....since it's been setting so long, if the owner didn't lock the clutch pedal down, the pressure plate may be stuck to the flywheel......cross that road if/when you get there.

The electrical switches on the fender are for your 3 point hitch. The toggle switch is for the hydraulic tilt ( nice feature) the two knob switches are probably used with sensors that attached to original Iseki implements....most likely mainly for a rice paddy tiller. If you have a separate 3 point control lever to raise/ lower the 3PH, you may have to adjust/play with the knobs to get them in the right setting. If you don't have a separate control lever, they are the main controls for the 3PH raise/ lower and fall speed control.

You definitely have a TL model. It is either a 1900, 2100, 2300 or 2500. The first two digits indicate the amount of PTO HP, not engine HP ( engine will have 2-4 more HP than the PTO rating). It is probably either going to have a Isuzu 3AE1 or 3AF1 engine. The TL1900 used the F model (1170 CC) and pretty sure the other models all used a 3AE1 ( 1296CC). I would look for 3AE1 or 3Af1 or maybe 1.17L/1.2L or 1.29L/ 1.3L cast somewhere on the engine block.