box blade_decision time

[coolnature]

After reading many posts as to what type of blade I need, I think I have narrowed it down to either a ROB or the "floating tailgate". I have considered the blades with hydraulic scarifiers but not only are they pricey, my present tractor has only (1) rear remote. I am leaning toward the "floating tailgate". Woods makes one that weighs around 750# for the 84" width, model BSM84. It has 1/2' thick end plates with 1/4" inside wear plate. My other choice would be the A&B Eagleline ROB which weighs around 900# and costs about $500 more than the Woods. I think I would also need to add a rear remote and T&T. The blade will be for general farm use which would include some road maintenance. I have never owned / operated a box blade and greatly appreciate all comments and suggestions.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

ROBB for sure, well doth that extra $500 IMO. Next best thing to the full hydraulic ripper box blade. When you add that 2nd rear remote, get the 3rd one also and get both of those with the float function.

What other implements will you be using? What types of work will you be doing with the machine?

I have ROBBs for both of my utility tractors, extremely happy with them. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

When you mention some road maintenance, just how much? You might want to get a LPGS for the road use, the only way to go when it comes to general road maintenance.

 

[coolnature]

Thanks for the input Brian. I was really sold on the ROBB, but I seem to be leaning toward the Woods with the floating tailgate. I think the T&T is probably more important than the type of blade. The added rear remote will probably be around $800. Not sure I want to add (2) rear remotes...ouch!. Other implements will be rotary cutter, post hole digger and some type of sprayer for pasture weeds. One of the main uses will be maintaining the farm road to the barn and equipment shed. Hopefully the added remote and T&T will not be in the too distant future. I will be contacting you when I get ready for the T&T. Thanks again.
John

 

[amberg]

I think that you will be happier with at least 3 remotes on your tractor, one day you will want them for your box blade, or scraper blade, esp. with a TNT. ( I wish new back in 1967 what I know today )

 

[YardBikeBob]

The blade will be for general farm use which would include some road maintenance. I have never owned / operated a box blade and greatly appreciate all comments and suggestions.

There are a lot of options for box blades and everyone who bought them rave about it. However, I'd bet that 95% of the BB owners on TBN just use a conventional BB. T&T is cool, too, but I think most people get by without it.

Including me. I have a Woods BSM72. It serves me well but there is nothing to recommend it over others of same weight/price.

If you have any obstacles at all on your property, I would suggest a BB that is only a little bit wider than your tractor. You would be amazed what happens when you clip something! Something gives and it might be expensive.

You are thinking about a 7' blade. A heavy blade, which is good. Weight is your friend. You certainly have enough motor to pull one. But your tractor is no heavier than mine and my little 40hp will spin all 4 (r4) tires when running the 6' BB on dry ground. And that is not necessarily when its hung up, either. A full box with an aggressive chin down attitude can bog down my 5,250lb tractor w/FEL.

For road maintenance you generally won't use the rippers. Many BBs have the ability to reverse the rippers in their mounts (i.e. pointing up) to get them out of the way. The Woods won't let you do that with the center rippers as the top link plates are in the way. It's kind of a pain.

For recontouring pasture or ripping up field beds for gardens, the rippers w/BB work pretty well -- they'll move dirt around. But it isn't a tiller or cultivator. A BB won't make a bumpy, grassy field smooth. Oh, and raise the BB before you turn, too!

So I think a heavy 6' conventional BB will serve you well. Enough of this heresy. On to the posts who'll recommend spending more money!

Bob

 

[PhysAssist]

There are a lot of options for box blades and everyone who bought them rave about it. However, I'd bet that 95% of the BB owners on TBN just use a conventional BB. T&T is cool, too, but I think most people get by without it.

Including me. I have a Woods BSM72. It serves me well but there is nothing to recommend it over others of same weight/price.

If you have any obstacles at all on your property, I would suggest a BB that is only a little bit wider than your tractor. You would be amazed what happens when you clip something! Something gives and it might be expensive.

You are thinking about a 7' blade. A heavy blade, which is good. Weight is your friend. You certainly have enough motor to pull one. But your tractor is no heavier than mine and my little 40hp will spin all 4 (r4) tires when running the 6' BB on dry ground. And that is not necessarily when its hung up, either. A full box with an aggressive chin down attitude can bog down my 5,250lb tractor w/FEL.

For road maintenance you generally won't use the rippers. Many BBs have the ability to reverse the rippers in their mounts (i.e. pointing up) to get them out of the way. The Woods won't let you do that with the center rippers as the top link plates are in the way. It's kind of a pain.

For recontouring pasture or ripping up field beds for gardens, the rippers w/BB work pretty well -- they'll move dirt around. But it isn't a tiller or cultivator. A BB won't make a bumpy, grassy field smooth. Oh, and raise the BB before you turn, too!

So I think a heavy 6' conventional BB will serve you well. Enough of this heresy. On to the posts who'll recommend spending more money!

Bob

While I only have a little bitty tractor, I have to say that Brian (not Bob) (sorry YBB) is right in that the ability to definitively choose which blade to engage the ground with and be able to finesse the land or road you are grading is hard to beat.(i.e., ROBB's are easier to learn and control by design without (necessarily needing TnT, though as you've seen, all those who have used it would never want to be w/o it ever again.)

With only a tiny bit of coaching my better half was able to learn to use our ROBB to level our pond bank and spread gravel in our driveway.

I had a lot more experience and seat time, but had run my uncle's straight BB only enough times to know I didn't have the skill or patience to ever get good at it, and so I was totally surprized by how much easier the ROBB was to get good at, even without any rear remotes

It is a lot more difficult to learn how to adjust a straight on BB, even when you have the floating gate to help out.

Whatever you do choose, be patient and don't let frustration get tovyou.

Good luck,
Thomas

 

[oosik]

I have a Bush Hog roll over box blade with hydraulic top link. Its 72" wide and weighs 710 pounds. It works very well moving dirt, creating, leveling and smoothing trails and general dirt work. Its not so good for my driveway maintenance unless I use it to scarify and fill potholes. I use a different implement to maintain the driveway(LPGS). I have never owned/used a regular box blade so I have no comparison there. There are advantages to the roll over box blade. I only have a single rear remote so the roll over box blade will allow the scarifiers or forward/rearward blades to be activated manually. My tractor, as its currently outfitted, and with the ROBB weighs 9700+ pounds. I can very definitely make all four wheels spin if I dial in too aggressive a cut with the ROBB and already have a full load of dirt in the box. J've found no need for the ROBB to be wider than rear tires - I will go over any trail so many times when creating it - any ridges etc will be totally eliminated.

 

[TomSeller]

There are a lot of options for box blades and everyone who bought them rave about it. However, I'd bet that 95% of the BB owners on TBN just use a conventional BB. T&T is cool, too, but I think most people get by without it.

So I think a heavy 6' conventional BB will serve you well. Enough of this heresy. On to the posts who'll recommend spending more money!

Bob

I have a heavy duty 6' conventional box blade and it works well for me. Very well actually. I don't do a lot of BBing, but it serves me well and used I got it for 25% of its new price. If I did a lot of BBing, I might look at more capable styles.

 

[jenkinsph]

With only one rear remote I would go with the ROB and see how that works for you. These are a good choice for tractors without all the hydraulic remotes. I did not see where your other implements had a need for tnt so this might save you some money.

I use a box blade a lot and use a gannon with tnt and hydraulic rippers does a great job for me but I could still do most general tasks with a much less costly ROB.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There are a lot of options for box blades and everyone who bought them rave about it. However, I'd bet that 95% of the BB owners on TBN just use a conventional BB. T&T is cool, too, but I think most people get by without it.

Including me. I have a Woods BSM72. It serves me well but there is nothing to recommend it over others of same weight/price.

If you have any obstacles at all on your property, I would suggest a BB that is only a little bit wider than your tractor. You would be amazed what happens when you clip something! Something gives and it might be expensive.

You are thinking about a 7' blade. A heavy blade, which is good. Weight is your friend. You certainly have enough motor to pull one. But your tractor is no heavier than mine and my little 40hp will spin all 4 (r4) tires when running the 6' BB on dry ground. And that is not necessarily when its hung up, either. A full box with an aggressive chin down attitude can bog down my 5,250lb tractor w/FEL.

For road maintenance you generally won't use the rippers. Many BBs have the ability to reverse the rippers in their mounts (i.e. pointing up) to get them out of the way. The Woods won't let you do that with the center rippers as the top link plates are in the way. It's kind of a pain.

For recontouring pasture or ripping up field beds for gardens, the rippers w/BB work pretty well -- they'll move dirt around. But it isn't a tiller or cultivator. A BB won't make a bumpy, grassy field smooth. Oh, and raise the BB before you turn, too!

So I think a heavy 6' conventional BB will serve you well. Enough of this heresy. On to the posts who'll recommend spending more money!

Bob

Bob, no arguing with you, you speak the truth, most get by without the fancier stuff. Most people from the many people that I have talked to admittedly suffer from "that's good enough syndrome" That is where you are simply tired of stopping and getting off of the tractor continuously to make 3pt adjustments and you end up figuring, "forget it, that's good enough".

But you are right, most people get by without these things.