Chain saw safety

[MinnesotaEric]

Looks interesting, I've never been too fond of the tapered disposable ear plugs. They always seem to work their way out.

I use Super 31s. They are the best earplugs I've ever used. All day comfortable as well. They reduce noise by 31 Db and are available in bags of 150 or little bottles of 40 pair.

 

[dave1949]

Looks interesting, I've never been too fond of the tapered disposable ear plugs. They always seem to work their way out.

Makes me wonder which nationality has tapered ear holes?

 

[TxDoc]

I don't know if this thread was referenced, but I saved it for future reference:

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,60018.0.html

If is was posted already, sorry, please delete.

 

[TomSeller]

I don't know if this thread was referenced, but I saved it for future reference:

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,60018.0.html

If is was posted already, sorry, please delete.

Excellent reminder.

 

[KiotiJason]

In response to the various errors in handling chainsaws, whether running or not, here are some things to consider to change bad habits.
Before moving from a cut in a log or tree immediately hit the brake to stop the chain. When walking any distance engage the chainbrake and put the saw in your left hand with the bar/chain facing behind you. Put a scabbard on the chain and bar to further prevent injury if one trips, falls, etc.
Also, engage the chainbrake whenever starting the saw and release it once the saw begins to run. The brake may wear out slightly earlier than it would have otherwise, BUT if it keeps one from getting cut it's well worth the effort. On average a chainsaw chain moves at 88 feet per second, = 55-60MPH. There is no way to avoid the teeth at those speeds, UNLESS one catches the teeth in the chaps, which slows the momentum of the chain and reduces or eliminates the potential cut/damage.

I think the best thing is to form safety habits, when I'm starting a saw out of habit I always enagugement the chain brake hit or cold. When I finish a cut and move I always flick my left wrist and engage the chain brake. It's become a habit that I do without thinking. I always stand side on to the cut so it it dose kick back I'm out of the way. I've got three saws ms660, MS390 and a MS170. I then do to be most weary of the smallest saw as I was always told that the smaller saws can kick back quicker. Some of these habits have saved injury for sure, it's easy to trip and lose your footing when cutting fallen trees etc. I've never been concerned with wearing out the chain brake and even when they need replacement it's not too expensive. I always wear chaps and a helmet etc. my belief that at times anyone can lose concentration however if you form good habit technic you are more likely to get out of it with a near miss.

 

[Threepoint]

I think the best thing is to form safety habits, when I'm starting a saw out of habit I always enagugement the chain brake hit or cold. When I finish a cut and move I always flick my left wrist and engage the chain brake. It's become a habit that I do without thinking. I always stand side on to the cut so it it dose kick back I'm out of the way. I've got three saws ms660, MS390 and a MS170. I then do to be most weary of the smallest saw as I was always told that the smaller saws can kick back quicker. Some of these habits have saved injury for sure, it's easy to trip and lose your footing when cutting fallen trees etc. I've never been concerned with wearing out the chain brake and even when they need replacement it's not too expensive. I always wear chaps and a helmet etc. my belief that at times anyone can lose concentration however if you form good habit technic you are more likely to get out of it with a near miss.

Using the chain brake to keep the chain from moving on an idling saw makes sense. Unfortunately, there are saws still in service that don't have them. My big John Deere 65SV (made by Echo) doesn't have one. Man, is it a nice saw, though.

 

[KiotiJason]

Using the chain brake to keep the chain from moving on an idling saw makes sense. Unfortunately, there are saws still in service that don't have them. My big John Deere 65SV (made by Echo) doesn't have one. Man, is it a nice saw, though.

Just googled the John Deer 65SV, what year is that? Looks like the guard is there for your forearm or wrist to hit and help defect the bar?.?.. I like the old retro saws but probably only keep them as a keep sake. I would think it would be fine for straight cross cutting though.

 

[Jim Shooz]

While I know about using the chain brake I am guilty of never doing it. My safety procedure for starting the saw is to always put the saw on the ground. Put my right foot through the rear handle, left hand on the front handle and pull the rope. These guys who hang onto the rope and throw the saw at the ground scare the cr*p out of me.

 

[TomSeller]

Looks like more of a guard than a chain brake

 

[Threepoint]

Looks like more of a guard than a chain brake

Yep, that pic looks like my JD 65SV. Bought it around 1986 to take down a dead 30" caliper Red Oak right next to the house we had at the time. Think it was around $350 back then, and it paid for itself with that first tree. It will likely outlast me. Has the hand guard you see in the pic, but no chain brake. A chain brake kit was available back then as an accessory, but of course I was a lot younger, so had no need for such a thing. The kit's no longer available. I've checked as well for a crossover to the Echo CS-650EVL.