L3200 HST dead. No power to anything on the panel. Not even hazards
- Thread starter RRX
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- kubota l3200
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
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- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
I think you have a bad battery, and from the sounds of it you may have blown the main fuse (or fusible link).
Battery should read in the neighborhood of 12V when not running, and about 14.2V when being charged by the alternator.
Battery should read in the neighborhood of 12V when not running, and about 14.2V when being charged by the alternator.
bumperm
Veteran Member
Looks like our posts crossed.
As you know, you should always remove the ground or negative terminal first so as to preclude accidentally shorting the battery. But, if you removed the positive first, you can almost be dead certain that you didn't short out the battery, as to do so would involve a big old arc, lots of molten metal, and a big gouge out of your favorite wrench as several hundred amps find their way through the frame back to the battery. It's an ugly and unforgettable experience!
Okay, since you have a volt meter, and know how to use it, let's proceed.
With the battery reconnected (hook up positive 1st, then negative!), connect the voltmeter to ground and bat +. Next, check at the back of the starter switch. You should have battery voltage on at least one terminal. If not, you'll need to go first to the fuse block and make sure that you have voltage there. Note that a number of fuses there will not have voltage applied until the "ignition" switch is on. What you are looking for is the "main" fuses. Note also, that many vehicles incorporate a fusible link - this will be located between the battery positive and the fuse block. If this has opened, that would produce the symptoms you have - - but so would a bad connection in the positive wire to the fuse block (or the negative from battery to tractor ground etc.). With a volt meter, with the "ignition switch" turned on or to accessory, if you measure from say the battery + terminal to a point downstream of that, where you would expect to also see positive voltage, but there is none, then stretch the leads (use a longer lead if need be) between those two points. There should be no voltage reading. But IF there is, then your open circuit is between these two points. You can use this principle to narrow down to the problem. You can also just take readings from ground to where there should be + voltage - either method works.
One old principle of troubleshooting, check the easy stuff first!
bumper
As you know, you should always remove the ground or negative terminal first so as to preclude accidentally shorting the battery. But, if you removed the positive first, you can almost be dead certain that you didn't short out the battery, as to do so would involve a big old arc, lots of molten metal, and a big gouge out of your favorite wrench as several hundred amps find their way through the frame back to the battery. It's an ugly and unforgettable experience!
Okay, since you have a volt meter, and know how to use it, let's proceed.
With the battery reconnected (hook up positive 1st, then negative!), connect the voltmeter to ground and bat +. Next, check at the back of the starter switch. You should have battery voltage on at least one terminal. If not, you'll need to go first to the fuse block and make sure that you have voltage there. Note that a number of fuses there will not have voltage applied until the "ignition" switch is on. What you are looking for is the "main" fuses. Note also, that many vehicles incorporate a fusible link - this will be located between the battery positive and the fuse block. If this has opened, that would produce the symptoms you have - - but so would a bad connection in the positive wire to the fuse block (or the negative from battery to tractor ground etc.). With a volt meter, with the "ignition switch" turned on or to accessory, if you measure from say the battery + terminal to a point downstream of that, where you would expect to also see positive voltage, but there is none, then stretch the leads (use a longer lead if need be) between those two points. There should be no voltage reading. But IF there is, then your open circuit is between these two points. You can use this principle to narrow down to the problem. You can also just take readings from ground to where there should be + voltage - either method works.
One old principle of troubleshooting, check the easy stuff first!
bumper
My multimeter is kind old and wonky, but I took the battery to Advanced auto parts and they checked it with a load meter. 12.4V and good for 500 cranking amps. I guess it's the battery main fuse, if I can find it. I don't get it. I checked voltage at the starter, and I have voltage. That is the positive cable to the starter. Where is the fusible link? I unwrapped the cable a foot back and see only battery cable. Where in the world is the main battery fuse?
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Just to the right of the positive red terminal under a cap (in other words in a little box)
bumperm
Veteran Member
No, there are two positive circuits. One, the big heavy wire, goes directly from the battery positive to the starter solenoid (that's not the one where the problem is). The other circuit is a less heavy wire, but still substantial - - it runs to the fuse block, but probably also first through a fusible link. That's what you need to locate and check. In case there is no fusible link, then look at the main fuses in the block.
bumper
bumper
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Yes of course the starter has a direct connection to the positive of the battery, but that has nothing to do with the main fuse. The main fuse is in line with the feed to all of the rest of the tractor's electrics.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
It is an actual fuse.. 40 amp according to the schematic it is right by the positive terminal.. Actually there is one main, and several others there as well.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Look for you fuse inside the red circle..
Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate your help and advice. My L3200 has 2 of those small fuse panels under the dash, not by the battery. I already checked those and they were good. There is another fuse panel with smaller fuses on the left side above the starter. I'll check them again in the morning since there is a monsoon tonight. And college football.
