New Starter for 422

[Frank Sorbello]

I had some time today to remove the starter. I really didn't want to unbolt the engine from the stand. I don't have a hoist or any means to lift it. I took another approach. I drilled two 1/2" holes in the tub where the bolts are on the starter. In less than five minutes I had the bolts out and starter came out fairly easily. Now is where it gets tricky.
There isn't much room to try and align the starter to the engine. I thought if I unbolt the left rear wheel motor and move it out of the way, I can get my left hand in the hole and hold up the starter to try and bolt in back together.

I removed the pin that keeps the nut from spinning off the wheel plate. The nut seems almost like it is frozen to the threads on the wheel motor. I am afraid if I put too much pressure on that nut and shaft I will hurt the wheel motor.

Shouldn't that nut spin off easily?

 

[ponytug]

Dear Frank,

Great out of box, (or should I say tub?), thinking with the holes. If that castle nut is like the one on my 1445, it will require some version of penetrating oil (e.g. PowerBlaster/Liquid Wrench) to get the threads loose, and real force, but then you'll need something like a gear puller to get the plate off, because the plate was wedged onto the spindle by the castle nut (my spindle is tapered, I don't know about the 422), and rusted into place over time. A little heat can go a long way to helping break the rust seal. On some vehicles, I have had to use penetrating oil, tapping the nut with a hammer, heat, and big wrenches, or impact wrenches, to get rusted on nuts loose. These are not easy nuts to get loose, at least in my limited experience.

Recently, for a different vehicle, I broke down and bought a nut splitter because i have a nut that is so inaccessible, and so rusted in place, that I couldn't get it loose, even with an air wrench and penetrating oil. (It was one of those bolts that is trivially accessible- before the manufacturer put the chassis on the frame, when it became only accessible by mice. It holds a fuel line in place, so I think that you can understand why I wasn't waving a blow torch at it.) :laughing:

Good luck.

All the best,

Peter

 

[BobRip]

M

I had some time today to remove the starter. I really didn't want to unbolt the engine from the stand. I don't have a hoist or any means to lift it. I took another approach. I drilled two 1/2" holes in the tub where the bolts are on the starter. In less than five minutes I had the bolts out and starter came out fairly easily. Now is where it gets tricky.
There isn't much room to try and align the starter to the engine. I thought if I unbolt the left rear wheel motor and move it out of the way, I can get my left hand in the hole and hold up the starter to try and bolt in back together.

I removed the pin that keeps the nut from spinning off the wheel plate. The nut seems almost like it is frozen to the threads on the wheel motor. I am afraid if I put too much pressure on that nut and shaft I will hurt the wheel motor.

Shouldn't that nut spin off easily?

How about a picture of where you drill the holes? I want to put my ground cable on one of these bolts.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Couldn't be more happier!!!!! Total time removing and replacing starter was 2 1/2 hours. The two 1/2" holes worked perfectly. I didn't have to take any hydraulic lines apart or lift the motor. I did try to move the lest rear wheel motor, but that nut was/is frozen on there, even with a lot of Liquid Wrench on it.

A big thank you to Tmarks11. I bought a new starter on eBay for $68 with free shipping. It works awesome! Never since I have owned it has it started so quickly.
I used a stepper bit from Harbor Freight to drill the holes. Those bits are awesome. Less than five minutes each to drill. I also purchased a hand held digital inspection camera from Harbor Freight on sale for $69. It was a big help. It has a great picture.

This is such a great forum. Thanks to everyone out there who has helped me since I have purchased this 422. It has really come along way since I have brought it home.

 

[PTWannaHave]

...I drilled two 1/2" holes in the tub where the bolts are on the starter.

Did you guesstimate the location of the holes, or were you able to take fairly accurate measurements?

Ciao,

 

[Frank Sorbello]

There were two existing holes on top of the tub. I drilled the top one out to a 1/2". I could see the head of the bolt. It was a straight shot. I measured the bolt hole openings center to center on the new starter. It was 3 1/2". I measured down 3 1/2" from the top of the center hole and thats where I drilled the bottom 1/2"hole.

 

[BobRip]

Y

There were two existing holes on top of the tub. I drilled the top one out to a 1/2". I could see the head of the bolt. It was a straight shot. I measured the bolt hole openings center to center on the new starter. It was 3 1/2". I measured down 3 1/2" from the top of the center hole and thats where I drilled the bottom 1/2"hole.

I just looked at your reply again. Now I understand. I try to put the battery ground on one. Thanks.