DK40HST Won't Start.

[Coyote machine]

To clarify with the OP: you experience the no start, no crank issue ONLY when the tractor has been running for some time, and is up to operating temp on your dash cluster? When the problem occurs is it consistent in that every time the tractor is at operating temp it will not crank over the engine? If you try to start the engine, then turn the key completely off, then try again does it then crank? If it will not start are you ever able to get it to start by trying the key switch numerous times?

I seem to have noticed in your thread about a rake/tool carrier that your tractor looked like it had a lot of red clay looking material on the operating station mat? Is that a fine dust? If so, I'm wondering if it may have gotten into some of the relays or the cruise control connection wiring and might cause the issue you experience when things under the hood get hot? I know it's a long shot, but stranger things have happened. If it is within the realm of possibility, I suggest using compressed air and electrical contact cleaner to insure no dirt, etc. is interfering with good clean electrical connections.

 

[Nick61]

To clarify with the OP: you experience the no start, no crank issue ONLY when the tractor has been running for some time, and is up to operating temp on your dash cluster? When the problem occurs is it consistent in that every time the tractor is at operating temp it will not crank over the engine? If you try to start the engine, then turn the key completely off, then try again does it then crank? If it will not start are you ever able to get it to start by trying the key switch numerous times?

I seem to have noticed in your thread about a rake/tool carrier that your tractor looked like it had a lot of red clay looking material on the operating station mat? Is that a fine dust? If so, I'm wondering if it may have gotten into some of the relays or the cruise control connection wiring and might cause the issue you experience when things under the hood get hot? I know it's a long shot, but stranger things have happened. If it is within the realm of possibility, I suggest using compressed air and electrical contact cleaner to insure no dirt, etc. is interfering with good clean electrical connections.

I have tried the Key switch numerous times when the operating temp is at normal range. Still no crank. when I disconnect the connector at the relay and place a short wire into the to large wires in the connector the motor turns over and starts up. At least I am not dead in the water. Where is the conector for the cruise module? under or behind the dash?

 

[Nick61]

The dealer just called and is sending me out a new ignition switch and a new relay. I don't think it is either one but it will be nice to have spare parts.

 

[Coyote machine]

I have tried the Key switch numerous times when the operating temp is at normal range. Still no crank. when I disconnect the connector at the relay and place a short wire into the to large wires in the connector the motor turns over and starts up. At least I am not dead in the water. Where is the conector for the cruise module? under or behind the dash?

I believe it is on the firewall with the relays toward the middle - larger black box...

 

[ritcheyvs]

The start relay coil is inside the relay. These relays generally have 5 electrical connections: (1) normally closed contact (opens when energized) (3) normally open contact (closes when energized), (1) center contact (switches from NC to NO contact when the coil is energized, and two connections for the coil. The coil closes the NO contacts regardless which way the current flows through the coil but the wiring harness/connector establishes one end of the coil as the 12v side and the other as the ground side.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Ok so the switch is on the range selector. Is it a standard grounding switch that has a button the lever pushes down when put in neutral? pretty common for these type switches to go out.

It would be nice if it were that simple. As another poster described, there is a potentiometer (variable resistor) mechanically linked to the gear range selector. The cruise module decides you are in neutral when it sees certain voltages from that potentiometer. If cruise module decides you are in neutral it is supposed to turn on the neutral light on the instrument panel and also provide the ground path for the start relay (providing the cruise module also thinks the PTO is disengaged).

At least one other Kioti owner on TBN had a failed cruise module but I think his neutral light wouldn't light even though his potentiometer voltages were correct.

 

[Nick61]

I have a neutral light. I have to go to work until Friday, and I will tackle this when I get home.

Thanks All!!!
Nick

 

[k0ua]

The cruise module is under the floorboard about where you left foot would be when operating the tractor.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I believe it is on the firewall with the relays toward the middle - larger black box...

That's the display unit. Cruise module is where James said.

 

[Coyote machine]

That's the display unit. Cruise module is where James said.

Thanks for reminding me, it's been a while. Now I remember they picked a great location for a sensitive control like the cruise module; under the floorboard where it's never going to encounter adverse conditions, like water, mud, snow or dust/dirt.:confused2: