Stainless welding options

[Arc weld]

How thick is the railing and deck you want to weld?

 

[dstig1]

I don't really have a pic at this point, just some ideas in my head. Here is a description, if you can follow my meanerdings. I'm thinking mostly 1/8" thick for the main structural elements, but it could go a little thinner too. 12 -14 ga is about the min. for some parts of it, I would think.

The main railing is a panel made up of a simple SS angle frame and SS mesh inside that. I would weld the mesh to the angle. This is where TIG would be a lot easier, I'm sure. That is the structural part of it, and t would span between posts. I would also be adding a screen to this for bugs. So I will need to figure out a way to make a mount for screen frames. The screen frames will need to be custom, so I may be welding those up too. For a cap railing, I was thinking of something a bit wider, like 6" so that it has some beef to it. Probably nothing thicker than 3/16" or 1/4" flat stock, perhaps. Or maybe some rect tube in a 6x2 form (if that even exists). I will need to attach bug screen above that too, so will need mounting for that. Again, probably some angle or even just flat stock welded on vertically. Will need to frame above for bug screens and mounting that with angle.

On one deck/balcony I will need to make a door out of this for roof access to clean the chimney, so I will be framing up a SS screen door in similar format.

Hopefully this made some sense...

 

[dstig1]

Going to resurrect this for another question. As I seek equipment to set up for TIG on these railings, am I OK sticking with air cooled torches, or should I look into water cooled? I doubt I will weld very fast, as I am slower than molasses in january, but if I really need water cooled, i want to get that set up from the get go. I am thinking getting a HF box might also be a wise move given the amount I have to do. CL/ebay and we'll see what comes up...

 

[Walkin Horse]

No you do not need a W/C rig. They are very awkward to use. I used to weld out a 12" pipe joint without stopping. I kept cut wire in my pocket and kept going. All you need is the standard 200 amp. Your money would be better spent on other things for this project.

Something that hasn't been mentioned is rust protection. You will need to be very careful about carbon contamination. I would buy a better grade of ss than 304. Go with 316L if it's available. Get some SS sheet metal to work on. Change all your grinding wheels to a new one. Limit your cuts with a saw blade and use a 6" metabo cutoff wheel. Use only a SS wire brush. Watch spatter and grinding sparks from other carbon projects. Reject any steel that has been bundled with carbon wire.

You are going to po 3 days after you put it in and see it rusting after the first dew. However if you want to buy a water cooled rig, think aluminum.

 

[Gary Fowler]

No you do not need a W/C rig. They are very awkward to use. I used to weld out a 12" pipe joint without stopping. I kept cut wire in my pocket and kept going. All you need is the standard 200 amp. Your money would be better spent on other things for this project.

Something that hasn't been mentioned is rust protection. You will need to be very careful about carbon contamination. I would buy a better grade of ss than 304. Go with 316L if it's available. Get some SS sheet metal to work on. Change all your grinding wheels to a new one. Limit your cuts with a saw blade and use a 6" metabo cutoff wheel. Use only a SS wire brush. Watch spatter and grinding sparks from other carbon projects. Reject any steel that has been bundled with carbon wire.

You are going to po 3 days after you put it in and see it rusting after the first dew. However if you want to buy a water cooled rig, think aluminum.

I agree with everything except the wire type. Actually 304 grade has more chromium in it than 316 but either of those will work fine and never rust unless contaminated with CS dust or particles from a brush previously used on carbon steel.
If you use all new brushes made from stainless steel, new grinder wheels and cutoff wheels, work off a plywood table top cover and you should be ok. Clean your shop well prior to starting so any steel dust is sweep and blown out before starting.
Should you get rusting on the stainless steel, a phosphoric acid treatment (like a brand name WEDAC) will remove the carbon steel contamination.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks, Guys. I suspected WC was not needed, but wasn't sure if there was some advantage I was missing. I've heard they are smaller and easier to maneuver, but that had me scratching my head as there are 3 tubes plus a wire vs 1 tube and wire for air cooled. Also good points on avoiding contamination. Will make sure to keep things clean.

What size torch? Is the #17 that is the common one? I've heard good things about the CK brand lately somewhere (probably over on WW).

 

[Walkin Horse]

When I said 316L I was referring to the stock and not so much the wire. I have never seen 304 wire. I thought it started at 308.

Is the higher grade SS more for chemical corrosion than for rust? I work one place and they had a machine made by George Ficsher. It used a chemical to clean the metal with a tungsten and a scrubby. It would even take some of the discoloration out of the welds

 

[dstig1]

316 is typically used in highly corrosive environments in industrial settings. There is no real advantage to using it for railings or where other typical SS (303, 304) is used. I may not know how to TIG weld this stuff yet, but I know what it's used for. Typical Engineer...

 

[Cord]

I have some stainless rods that I use for these projects. They work great. Slag peels right off and the weld bead is super pretty. Almost as easy as using a 7014 rod. Wish I had the number or I'd give it to you.

 

[bigdeano]

I have some stainless rods that I use for these projects. They work great. Slag peels right off and the weld bead is super pretty. Almost as easy as using a 7014 rod. Wish I had the number or I'd give it to you.

Sounds like the E308L-16 rods I use to weld 304 stainless.