Hydraulic Top Link Drawbacks

[JWR]

The hydraulic top link is a great asset most of the time. It is so helpful when using a box scraper you almost should not think of using a box scraper without one. It allows you to adjust depth and behavior of the box scraper without threaded top link adjustment and especially without re positioning all those teeth in the scraper. Indispensable. Quite handy in other circumstances too like varying how high you lift things like bush hogs, the angle of plows, etc. One caution is to avoid small light duty ones that won't stand your customary loads. Think long term and get a good one. I use mine all the time with a 1500 lb 7 ft Bush Hog and would hate to be without it. But they ain't cheap ....

 

[cleat]

I also love my hydraulic top link and use it all summer. However, when I put on the snow blower I must go to the manual top link only because the snow blower uses both pairs of rear QD's for the hydraulic chute rotation and deflection.

Cleat

 

[cleat]

I also love my hydraulic top link and use it all summer. However, when I put on the snow blower I must go to the manual top link only because the snow blower uses both pairs of rear QD's for the hydraulic chute rotation and deflection.

Cleat

 

[Fallon]

I also love my hydraulic top link and use it all summer. However, when I put on the snow blower I must go to the manual top link only because the snow blower uses both pairs of rear QD's for the hydraulic chute rotation and deflection.

Cleat

Why not just set the hydraulic link where it needs to be then unhook the QDs? It will stay put until you hook the QDs back in.

 

[JWR]

Why not just set the hydraulic link where it needs to be then unhook the QDs? It will stay put until you hook the QDs back in.

No, unfortunately it WON'T stay put. The hydraulic top link (like any other hyd cylinder) will very slowly give in the direction of load once the pressure bleeds off over time. It may take a few hours but it will bleed off and the snow blower would not be where you set it to begin with. Another alternative (which appeals to me) is to give up snowblower chute deflection. That does not change very often (at least I do not change the deflection angle on my snowblower much if ever.) You'd still have the rotation which is definitely nice and the hyd top link which would allow you to adjust the angle the snowblower makes with the ground. That angle is important to avoid digging into the ground or gravel, etc. as I'm sure you know.

 

[bumperm]

JWR,

You might consider a hydraulic diverter valve, which would allow you to toggle switch select either top link or chute (one or the other) to be operated from one rear outlet.
http://www.hydraulicstore.com/index.php?loc=items_detail&data[major]=1&data[keys]=9500890&data[catalog]=1&data[itemcode]=9500890

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No, unfortunately it WON'T stay put. The hydraulic top link (like any other hyd cylinder) will very slowly give in the direction of load once the pressure bleeds off over time. It may take a few hours but it will bleed off and the snow blower would not be where you set it to begin with. Another alternative (which appeals to me) is to give up snowblower chute deflection. That does not change very often (at least I do not change the deflection angle on my snowblower much if ever.) You'd still have the rotation which is definitely nice and the hyd top link which would allow you to adjust the angle the snowblower makes with the ground. That angle is important to avoid digging into the ground or gravel, etc. as I'm sure you know.

My recommendation to you would be to change out your seals on the cylinder. Yes a cylinder will move over time. No it should not move to affect your implement in only a few hours, even a day for that matter.

Just my :2cents:

 

[MHarryE]

I'm not sure I understand how the cylinder will change position if the QD's are disconnected unless either the rod seal leaks or the QD's leak. The double acting cylinders used as hydraulic top links are not balanced - oil volume behind the piston end is larger than oil volume behind the rod end. Even if there is no seal on the piston the cylinder won't move because there is no space for the volume changes. The attached link explains this with illustrations.

The Root Cause of Hydraulic Cylinder Drift

My top and tilt both drift. If I do not want the tilt to drift (spending a day moving large rounds using the rear spear for example), I disconnect the QD's and it is hydraulically locked. Only time I have ever disconnected the top is when using a towed implement that requires both circuits - fold and raise our cultivator for example.

 

[JWR]

Great idea bumperm ! Switching between the 2 solves all dilemmas and may well be handy for other things too!

 

[JWR]

I'm not sure I understand how the cylinder will change position if the QD's are disconnected unless either the rod seal leaks or the QD's leak. The double acting cylinders used as hydraulic top links are not balanced - oil volume behind the piston end is larger than oil volume behind the rod end. Even if there is no seal on the piston the cylinder won't move because there is no space for the volume changes. The attached link explains this with illustrations.

The Root Cause of Hydraulic Cylinder Drift

My top and tilt both drift. If I do not want the tilt to drift (spending a day moving large rounds using the rear spear for example), I disconnect the QD's and it is hydraulically locked. Only time I have ever disconnected the top is when using a towed implement that requires both circuits - fold and raise our cultivator for example.

I think it will drift if left overnight with a snowblower hung on it. But maybe I'm wrong. Try it and let us know !!