Hydraulic Top Link Drawbacks

[texasjohn]

I really hope you don't go...your opinions and knowledge are valued.

I can see where laving check valves can help in some cases such as mowing. I would also add that the jobs that require floating the top link are few and far between.

Buy whatever makes you happy. If I offended anyone I am sorry but I call it as I see it. I am signing off TBN for good. Over the years I just see too many armchair debates and recognize that I have personally spent too much of my time here without enough return on the time spent. I fully acknowledge how little difference it makes whether I am here or not. You guys have fun with it, life goes on.

 

[davethegundoctor]

I have had these for well over 20 years. No problem. A Hydraulic top link team up with a Quick Hitch - Heaven!!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I don't have a hydraulic toplink or sidelink (yet!). But for those of you who have leak down issues, but like to set it and forget it for a particular task, you might want to pick up a pack or two of these stroke control discs (what we called "donuts" back on the farm):

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/stroke-control-with-finger-tab-1-1-8-in-to-1-1-2-in

You set your toplink or sidelink where you want it for a particular task, and then put some of these around the cylinder shaft so that the full amount of the exposed shaft is covered. Then when it leaks down, you can just close the cylinder as much as it will close, and these allow you to return the cylinder to exactly the same position every time.

If you're constantly changing the toplink or sidelink, these won't do you any good. But they work great to be able to return a cylinder to a repeatable point any time you want.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Edit to delete duplicate post.

 

[boggen]

I don't have a hydraulic toplink or sidelink (yet!). But for those of you who have leak down issues, but like to set it and forget it for a particular task, you might want to pick up a pack or two of these stroke control discs (what we called "donuts" back on the farm):

SpeeCo Stroke Control, 1-1/8 in. to 1-1/2 in. - Tractor Supply Co.

You set your toplink or sidelink where you want it for a particular task, and then put some of these around the cylinder shaft so that the full amount of the exposed shaft is covered. Then when it leaks down, you can just close the cylinder as much as it will close, and these allow you to return the cylinder to exactly the same position every time.

If you're constantly changing the toplink or sidelink, these won't do you any good. But they work great to be able to return a cylinder to a repeatable point any time you want.

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

We used them all the time back on the farm. Most of our chisel plows, disc harrows, rotary cutters, etc. were pull-type and used hydraulic cylinders that raised and lowered a rockshaft that controlled the height of the gauge wheels. We would set the height/depth we wanted and then use a combination of these "donuts" on the hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Xfaxman]

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

I made mine from thick wall tubing, slit on the bandsaw.


On the Gorrilla Grapple


Works good like stroke stoppers should.:thumbsup:

 

[npalen]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

Make sure ball valve is not brass and is rated for pressure that is applied sounds like it's cheaper than P.O. checks

 

[Threepoint]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

Npalen, hadn't thought of using a manual shutoff valve in that way. Any drawbacks to it, other than the fact that you've got to remember to open and close it?

What kind of position indicator are you using for your tilt angle? Great idea, could you maybe post a pic?