wood splitter

[Leejohn]

Take the lever off where it hooks to the valve body, but leave it hooked to the spool. Now push handle hard to move spool all the way in, then pull hard. Dead head the cyl both way and if no psi then it's the valve, could be a motor spool valve.

 

[ron65]

Your relief valve should be set to about 2950 psi.

Your two stage pump is capable of 3000 psi.

What pressure do you get at the end of the extended stroke?

Did you remove any of the relief valves to inspect them. If so, did you put all the parts back together correctly?

J-J


1- What pressure do you get at the end of the extended stroke? answer - 500-600 psi

2 - Did you remove any of the relief valves to inspect them. If so, did you put all the parts back together correctly? answer - I did not remove anything from the relief valve, only loosened the lock nut and adjusted the allen head screw in and out. And you are right to question me if I: "Put all the parts back" -----That would describe my luck to a tee, but I can without a doubt plead innocent to that one this time

 

[ron65]

Take the lever off where it hooks to the valve body, but leave it hooked to the spool. Now push handle hard to move spool all the way in, then pull hard. Dead head the cyl both way and if no psi then it's the valve, could be a motor spool valve.

Leejohn

You have to remember I am a carpenter by trade. I fix and build things by hitting them with a hammer and if given instructions otherwise, I can get confused very easily I understand the unhooking of the handle from the valve body and then pushing and pulling of the spool. Just not sure about the dead heading. Am I to dead head the extend port with a gauge in it like you had me do before and then just plug the opposite valve port? This would completely take the cylinder out of the system.

 

[J_J]

Take the lever off where it hooks to the valve body, but leave it hooked to the spool. Now push handle hard to move spool all the way in, then pull hard. Dead head the cyl both way and if no psi then it's the valve, could be a motor spool valve.

This is the log splitter valve he has installed.

Prince log splitter/lifter valve (RD522CCEA54B1)

If the relief works in one direction, it should work in the other direction.

Can you disconnect your log splitter cyl and connect it to a tractor valve and see if it functions correctly. If it functions correctly, then the valve is at fault

 

[ron65]

This is the log splitter valve he has installed.

Prince log splitter/lifter valve (RD522CCEA54B1)

If the relief works in one direction, it should work in the other direction.

Can you disconnect your log splitter cyl and connect it to a tractor valve and see if it functions correctly. If it functions correctly, then the valve is at fault

J-J

I do have a loader but would have to purchase more hose for testing. I do not know if I followed Leejohn's instructions correctly, but I get the same result all the time. I dead headed the extend port with a gauge and plugged the opposite port, disconnected handle from valve body, pulled spool in and out with the same result as every other test. The gauge in the extend port still only reads 5-600 psi when spool is positioned at extend port.

You mentioned cylinder condition and here is another test I did to which I thought would show cylinder condition is o.k.: With everything back together where it is supposed to be, I reversed the hoses on the valve body so when piston is fully extending you do not have to hold the handle, it would kick out when piston was fully extended. Then if I over ride the detent to try to extend piston further so I could get a pressure reading, the pressure shot up to 2,000 psi. Which seemed to show the cylinder was holding pressure. At one point I even placed a 4-5" piece of Tamarack cross wise the wedge and the piston sheared it about 3/4 of the way through before I could stop it. Would that tell you that the cylinder is likely o.k?

So no matter what I do, the extend port will never give me a pressure above 5-600 psi and which takes a short time to build up to that. Yet the opposite port for that same spool will easily and very rapidly give me 1500-2000 psi. And the log lift spool, on the same valve body, will give those higher psi reading in either of it's ports very quickly. So three ports on the same valve will give high pressure but one will never give over 5-600 psi.

Maybe I am missing something in telling you about this problem.

 

[J_J]

You are stating the problem as you see it.

I agree, your problem does not make sense.

Why the cyl will not make relief pressure in the extend mode is puzzling.

Can you switch the hoses and use the log lift to operate the splitter cyl to see if the extend mode will build up relief pressure.

 

[ron65]

You are stating the problem as you see it.

I agree, your problem does not make sense.

Why the cyl will not make relief pressure in the extend mode is puzzling.

Can you switch the hoses and use the log lift to operate the splitter cyl to see if the extend mode will build up relief pressure.

J-J

Good idea, I will try that as well.

Thanks

 

[muddstopper]

Where do you have the pressure gauge mounted. It sounds like you are moving the gauge around to different ports. The gauge should be installed between the valve and the pump. Mounted on pump side of valve will let you adjust the reliefs. You have pressure at the pump to valve per your other posts. If your cylinder is good, and you cant get pressure to the cylinder, the problem is your valve, or your plumbing, or reliefs not properly set. When you deadhead the valve and it goes to 5-600psi, will it continue to climb if you continue to pull the lever. If so, could be the valve isnt going all the way in for full flow. If not, then relief is set to low, bad, or has internal leakage, (cracks internally are not unusual, altho not all that common). Someone already suggested to remove valve handle and try to push the spool to see if it will go in farther than it will with lever attached. have you tried that?

 

[J_J]

The pump is capable of 3000 psi, and he has already seen 2000 psi on the gage .

The gage should be installed in a tee in the IN port of the log splitter valve. That way, it will reflect any pressure in the circuit.

The gage came from the factory set to 2000, so it appears the relief valve is working and relieving at 2000 psi.

The puzzling part of all this is that he can obtain 2000 psi on the retract if held open.

It does not make any difference how much lever is applied, as any GPM should make the cyl build up pressure under load.

If the cyl can not build up pressure to the relief limits, there is a leak somewhere .

Once he uses the log lift ports to verify the log splitter cyl, we will know if the problem is the cyl of the valve.

What kind of pressure are you getting on the log lift cyl?

 

[muddstopper]

JJ, I agree with you. My suggestion to hold the lever long enough is based on partial engagement of spool valve will allow low flow and low pressure readings until resistance is met. Continueing to hold the lever engageing the spool will let pressure built to relief setting, albeit somewhat slower than if the spool was completely engaged. Once total resistance is met pressure should rise pretty fast. As I under stand it, his switching of the hoses to the cylinder, the system will build full pressure on both sides of the cyl piston, depending on which end he currently has the hoses connected to. I think that eliminates the cylinder as the problem since he has stated system pressure at both ends of the cylinder. The pump is building system pressure as set by the relief at 2000psi, You are right, if the relief works in one direction,it will work in the other direction, the oil flows over the relief in the same direction, requardless of which direction the spool is centered. I think that narrows it down to either a defective control valve, or improper plumbing. The problem seems to be only on one port/direction of the control valve, could be a crack internally allowing oil to flow back to tank which would negate any attempt to adjust pressure at the relief.