Creating my horse barn

[s219]

I normally have put the "j" anchors in wet, but it's a pain. Around here, people use a double bottom plate -- sort of. For a 2x4 wall, we put a treated 2x6 down and bolt it in place with the anchors (for a shortcut, I like to rest the 2x6 on the anchors, all lined up, then tap with a hammer over each anchor to mark where the holes get drilled). Then the 2x4 wall and its bottom plate get nailed to that 2x6. Standard practice is to notch the bottom 2x4 plate to miss the anchors (often done shoddily) but I instead drill a hole with a chisel bit so it pokes through cleanly.

Obviously a lot of hassle. I always wondered why this was done versus drilling and placing anchors afterwards, and learned it's because the anchor bolts are on the checklist for the foundation/footing inspection, at least in my county. You can't even move onto framing unless you have the foundation/footing paperwork. So that means anchors put in ahead of time, and all the headaches that brings. I think you're taking a better approach Eddie.

 

[EddieWalker]

There are no codes here, and if my memory is right, we used to have to have the bolts in place in CA, where I'm from to pass inspection. It's all kind of fuzzy now, but I did try using them when I first moved here and was told by some other contractors that nobody does that. Most just stand up the walls and use concrete nails to hold them in place. That is the most common way that I've seen it done. I like the bolts. They are strong and easy to do. They are more costly then the nails, but they work and they give me a sense of security using them. I use them on my clients homes too, and they really like seeing them.

Eddie

 

[i579rbd]

Hi Eddie,
Are you also doing the fence in the background? When you get the chance could you please do a quick "how to" on putting up a ridge beam? Thanks

 

[MacLawn]

Wow, s219, that's a good idea! I'll do that when I frame in my carport. I have poured rebar walls for foundation, and when I did it about 7 years ago, I put the J thingamabobs in while concrete was wet, so they're cured now! So now, I'll bolt me 2x6s down, mark me bottom plates to fit over sticking up bolt haids, then frame as usual. Love that idea! I believe in treated wood, so I'll use all treated. I hate water and wood lice damage. Course, ye have to keep water away anyway, but I just like treated wood.

 

[ustmd]

There are no codes here, and if my memory is right, we used to have to have the bolts in place in CA, where I'm from to pass inspection. It's all kind of fuzzy now, but I did try using them when I first moved here and was told by some other contractors that nobody does that. Most just stand up the walls and use concrete nails to hold them in place. That is the most common way that I've seen it done. I like the bolts. They are strong and easy to do. They are more costly then the nails, but they work and they give me a sense of security using them. I use them on my clients homes too, and they really like seeing them.

Eddie

Not to start a debate, but I thought that if you use those types of expansion anchor bolts close to the edge of the concrete, you run the risk of blowing out the edge of the concrete.

I have been drilling and using the epoxy to set the galvanized threaded rod. If there is a better/easier way, I am all for it.

 

[EddieWalker]

Hi Eddie,
Are you also doing the fence in the background? When you get the chance could you please do a quick "how to" on putting up a ridge beam? Thanks

Yes, part of the project is fencing in four acres for the horses. This is also part of our driveway, so I want it to look nice as we drive past it every day.



As for the ridge beam, it's just a matter of going to Gable Roof Framing Calculator - Gable Roof Plans - Online and putting in the dimensions of the building. They do all the calculating. Then I print it out and cut everything like they say to. For this job, the bottom of the ridge beam is 2 ft 1 3/4 inches. I had Karen cut the boards and we just placed the ridge beam on top of them.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Not to start a debate, but I thought that if you use those types of expansion anchor bolts close to the edge of the concrete, you run the risk of blowing out the edge of the concrete.

I have been drilling and using the epoxy to set the galvanized threaded rod. If there is a better/easier way, I am all for it.

I've never had any issues with anchor bolts doing anything to the edge of the concrete. The concrete between the posts in just 5 1/2 inches thick. It's standard quikrete readi mix stuff from Lowes, which isn't the strongest cement out there. The sill plate is 3 1/2 inches wide and it's at the edge of the concrete. I'm guessing that my holes are probably an inch and a half from the edge of the concrete.

Maybe there might be an issue if you drill too soon. I've never heard of any problems or experienced any.

Eddie

 

[MacLawn]

Wow, Eddie, wha' kind of fence posts are those! Vinyl, for electric horse wire?

 

[EddieWalker]

Yes. We really like the look of the white vinyl three rail fence. Unfortunately it's not strong enough to keep anything in, so we are running three rows of aluminum for a hot wire. Top wire is for the horses, middle wire is for Oscar, and the bottom is to keep critters out.

I'll post some pictures when we have the wire strung and everything working.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

There is going to be a porch type roof coming out about 12 feet from the barn with four cedar posts supporting it. Karen and my parents spent the day working on the posts.


















Eddie