Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Need snow removal help

[DHD]

I think the statute of limitations is only good up until the school bell rings. LOL

 

[dave1949]

Looking over your shoulder at passing sweet young things doesn't hurt, right? :laughing:

 

[skyhook]

Finally, a few members with a sense of humor.

 

[ecbaatz]

I have read thru this thread and no where was mentioned about a rear pull snow blower. I have a front mount but have read good and bad about the real pull. Mostly good. It might be worth looking at.

 

[bumperm]

Another advantage of a 3PT. rear mount snow blower, it's not brand name or model specific for any one tractor like a front mount blower can be.
So if you purchased a rm blower and did not like it, resale would be much easier.

IMHO a rear mount snow blower offers more benefits than a front mount snow blower.:thumbsup:

When I sold my BX2230, I removed the front blower and sold it to a fellow with a house up at Tahoe - he had a 2230 too. Sold the tractor for a reasonable price to a friend, and sold the blower and mounting hardware for a handsome price. Together, more than I paid for the rig originally. So, if you have a front blower to sell, there are enough people out there that someone with the same/similar tractor will want it - especially if it's well kept (I had installed electric chute and deflector on it).

For me, front mount is the way to go, no question. My back and neck won't allow a back mount. Plus, I think the front mount is more maneuverable and can be used with more finesse. Costs more, but I'm worth it (Disclaimer: I'm not sure anyone else thinks I'm worth it. - - I'll check with the wife . . . )

 

[leonz]

I have read thru this thread and no where was mentioned about a rear pull snow blower. I have a front mount but have read good and bad about the real pull. Mostly good. It might be worth looking at.

Where he lives a pull type would not work well simply because of his altitude, low ground clearance and the amount of time he would have to spend in the mule driving up and down the road with it.

 

[PILOON]

Rear mounts are not brand or model specific so that eventual resale is much surer.
My observation is that rear units are generally much more HD as well.

Careful observation is that the many, even not most, of the front mounts use standard 'walk behind' components notably the cast aluminum gear box and flighting (auger).
Generally limited to smaller CUTs.

Another observation is with that the front overhang makes it very difficult to work in tight spots and the turning radius is awful while a rear has a very good visibility and excellent turning radius.(think fork lift trucks).
Obstructions are totally hidden from view due to distance and angles. When you blow forwards and turn you are pushing snow sideways due to the long swing.
On rough roads the ride is terrible due to the long overhang.
(I have some experience with a front mount 72" on an 80 hp tractor and hated it)

With the advent of low priced back up camera systems (like $50-100) the sore neck syndrome can be eliminated.
Another point is tractors, in most cases, are designed for rear mounted implements as all they were generally designed for farming.

For a pull type to be effective you need a heavy tractor (like 75hp class) as lighter units would ride up and over the snow. eg something heavy enough that the wheels stay in contact with the road surface no matter the type of snow.
IMHO pull types were really designed for urban 'door to door' snow contractors.

 

[bumperm]

Piloon,

While we're each entitled to our opinions, facts are indisputable, and some of what you posted is either not true, or "somewhat slanted". My comments below, between your lines, and preceeded and ended with *****

***** Yes, but at least they get to see where they're going in stead of craning their necks to look aft. But I'm with you, it doesn't seem like it'd be workable with deep drifts either.

bumper *****

 

[kco]

Rear mounts are not brand or model specific so that eventual resale is much surer.
My observation is that rear units are generally much more HD as well.

Careful observation is that the many, even not most, of the front mounts use standard 'walk behind' components notably the cast aluminum gear box and flighting (auger).
Generally limited to smaller CUTs.

Another observation is with that the front overhang makes it very difficult to work in tight spots and the turning radius is awful while a rear has a very good visibility and excellent turning radius.(think fork lift trucks).
Obstructions are totally hidden from view due to distance and angles. When you blow forwards and turn you are pushing snow sideways due to the long swing.
On rough roads the ride is terrible due to the long overhang.
(I have some experience with a front mount 72" on an 80 hp tractor and hated it)

With the advent of low priced back up camera systems (like $50-100) the sore neck syndrome can be eliminated.
Another point is tractors, in most cases, are designed for rear mounted implements as all they were generally designed for farming.

For a pull type to be effective you need a heavy tractor (like 75hp class) as lighter units would ride up and over the snow. eg something heavy enough that the wheels stay in contact with the road surface no matter the type of snow.
IMHO pull types were really designed for urban 'door to door' snow contractors.

Piloon, I respectfully disagree with your last point regarding pull-type blowers. I have a 74" pull-type Meteor on a DK35SE (28 PTO hp) which works fine in heavy snow. The blower weighs 748 lbs and does not ride over the snow even if it is heavy wet snow. Perhaps lighter blowers might have the problem you describe. Here are some photos from last week in non-urban settings:





I did not get photos of another neighbour's driveway which had not been cleared at all this winter. It had about 6" total snow before Christmas, another 10" December from Dec 27 to 29, and the 24" inches shown in the above photos. It was over 1/2 mile of uphill clearing and my tractor could not push through it. So I had to clear the whole first path by backing into the snow as far as I could and travelling back forward. It took about two hours to do the first back-and-forth swath to his house. But after that It was easy to widen it by taking 1/2 width swaths and knocking down the deep stuff with the bucket held at a level just below the top of the front wheels. On this day it had warmed to just above freezing and the snow was much denser than that in the above photos(it was around -6 C when that snow fell).

We get a fair amount of snow in this area but normally in 12" or less dumps, and we have virtually no wind. Last week's 24" was a record single-day amount since 1937. A pull-type may not work as well in heavier and very-severe locations but it is perfect for my area. Even in deeper snow a person can clear with the backing in and blowing ahead method I used on the deeper driveway.

 

[bumperm]

Impressive, kco! Without a cab, what do you do about keeping your coffee warm?

We could use some of that snow please . . . last year was bleak and this one is shaping up to be even worse.