Question for the rock and gravel guys

[RedNeckRacin]

Never used that screen chart before, always had to use AASHTO or PA DOT gradation. Main point is, put the big stone on the bottom to spread the load and cap it with finer material to lock it together. If its a constantly a problem area, your going to eat a lot of rock trying to firm it up. You can always use geo-textiles or geo-grids to help keep the sub-grade out of your stone. Usually you can assume a rough estimate of cutting your stone use in 1/2 with the geo.

 

[Looking4new]

I just spread a tri-ax load (44,700 lbs) of ASTM #3 (2") down to stabilize a high clay area that gets soupy in wet weather.
Hoping the freeze/thaw of winter and frequent driving over it will help pack it in.

View attachment 407982

I'm pretty sure it's going to take additional filling and raking each time we get a thaw and the gravel sinks in.
About 1/4 of the stone remains in the pile to be used as filler for any low spots that form.

That looks like limestone. IF in fact it is, you should wet it down and then roll the he!! out of it. It will harden right up.

 

[s219]

I just spread a tri-ax load (44,700 lbs) of ASTM #3 (2") down to stabilize a high clay area that gets soupy in wet weather.
Hoping the freeze/thaw of winter and frequent driving over it will help pack it in.

View attachment 407982

I'm pretty sure it's going to take additional filling and raking each time we get a thaw and the gravel sinks in.
About 1/4 of the stone remains in the pile to be used as filler for any low spots that form.

That should work great. Whenever we have a soft muddy spot here I dump a load of #3 and let it do what it needs to do to setup. Has always worked like a charm for me. I also discovered I can distribute #3 in a box blade very well, contrary to my initial thought. #3 makes a very nice base for crusher run since it gives a lot of surface anchor to lock things in. If the ground is really soft and "flowing", putting geotextile fabric under the #3 is a good idea to keep the #3 from sinking.

 

[LD1]

I just spread a tri-ax load (44,700 lbs) of ASTM #3 (2") down to stabilize a high clay area that gets soupy in wet weather.
Hoping the freeze/thaw of winter and frequent driving over it will help pack it in.

View attachment 407982

I'm pretty sure it's going to take additional filling and raking each time we get a thaw and the gravel sinks in.
About 1/4 of the stone remains in the pile to be used as filler for any low spots that form.

Are you going to top-coat it with anything? or is it just for tractor passage?

Last load of stone I got was over 50k:confused2:

 

[PILOON]

You always want the base to be larger material be it 2" or whatever followed by smaller grade.
Our local designation would be 0-3/4" as the top finished layer.
The finest finish would be what we call stone dust which is basically 1/4" and under.

All this being said a layer of geotextile as your first or base is probably the best start.
It serves as a mesh to support gravels and most important prevents migration of any subsoils or muck from migrating to the surface all while allowing drainage.
Think or geotextile* as a big snowshoe under your gravel base.
In my area the roads dept use it all the time.

*sold for gardening in 36" rolls but also in 10'-12' rolls for road work.
(Old synthetic carpeting could also do as a substitute for geotextile.)

 

[Rustyiron]

Greg,

I have a asphalt driveway and large asphalt pad but added a large gravel pad beside the asphalt. If your ground is as hard as mine the crusher run by its self would work fine. Save a few $$ also. But if he ground is soft you may need the larger washed stone first.

My crusher run pad is several inches thick and I packed it with the F250. I had it put down 2010 and had no issues. I have had several tandem trucks on it with no movement. It has held up great, smooth and hard.

I did box blade it and re-packed it over the summer just because of the dead weeds and grass from the round-up. You know crusher run has fertilizer and weed/grass seed in it :laughing: I am thinking about spreading some on my yard where the grass won't grow!!

If I can get home before dark I will snap a picture of the pad.

Bingo! Here's a man in at least the same state! These things are regional, to say the least, and actually very local. I'm sure that there are big differences between the western Mtns. and the piedmont. The only thing I can add from afar is bigger stone first then top it with smaller stone with fines to "lock" the surface together.

edit; get your drainage right before anything. It's the most important part of it all:thumbsup:

 

[gregfender]

Thanks for the advice, folks! I'll be getting to work on it this spring. It looks like I'll be going with a couple of inches of #2 or #3 for the base, then an inch or two of crush and run to bind it all. I will just be happy to get the dirt covered!

 

[hunterridgefarm]

I know you have already decided...but I did take pictures last night so I will post them just for the heck of it.

The pad is in a "L" shape so the picture only shows part of the pad.

In the back ground you can see the grading being done for my pole barn/workshop. I have taken 28 trees down since Thanksgiving, still needs a little more grading and a few stumps removed.

 

[gregfender]

I know you have already decided...but I did take pictures last night so I will post them just for the heck of it.

The pad is in a "L" shape so the picture only shows part of the pad.

In the back ground you can see the grading being done for my pole barn/workshop. I have taken 28 trees down since Thanksgiving, still needs a little more grading and a few stumps removed.

That looks great. My only concern with just crush and run is unless I lay it on crazy thick, I'll lose some of it mud. I've got a good bit of red clay where I'm putting it down and I'm thinking I might need the #3 for stability on the base.

 

[tjcarguy]

Crush and run ? is that football ? ---Trevor