LED light questions.

   / LED light questions. #1  

alltherage

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
159
Location
Western NY
Tractor
2011 Cub Yanmar EX2900. 1939 Farmall A, 1940 Farmall H, 1959 Oliver 770
So I ordered a couple 27 watt lights and the opt7 dual harness and received them today. I want to mount them on the rops where the halves hinge together. I want to run the bolt that holds the hinge assembly through the light bracket. It will require me to get a bracket with a larger hole as well as a longer bolt for the rops. Anyone done this? Also, the opt 7 comes with the clips that need to be attached to the wires coming from the light. Anyone know how to do this? Seems simple but I don't wanna screw it up lol
 
   / LED light questions. #2  
Haven't seen one mounted like you are planning but I'm sure it will work. I think I know what you mean by the clips but pics would help. If they are the clip on wire splices you just put the two wires you want to connect into the clip and close it. Personally I would use butt splices and then shrink wrap over them so they are waterproof.
 
   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The harness already has the wires going into a clip, but the lights are bare wire. The harness includes clips for those though. I assume you just put the bare wire in and pinch them. No instructions provided. Harness appears to be of great quality and has excellent reviews fyi
 
   / LED light questions. #4  
I think you're on the right track. Pics would confirm though. Is this what you have splice.jpg

I would use these with heat shrink over the top.
butt splice.jpg
 
   / LED light questions. #5  
IMHO... Run a new fused power wire from the battery to either a relay or the switch creating a new circuit.
That way if you blow out the headlights or another set of lights you will still have something to see with.

Those connector should be thrown out, too many future problems with poor connections. Best way would be to peel off the sheathing on the main wire and strip the end of the branch wire, wrap the branch wire around the main wire tightly (a good mechanical bond) and solder. Once you have proven the circuit works, clean the soldered joint and use some brush on rubber sealant.
A good solid, water proof connection is worth it's weight in gold, especially when you do not have any troubles later on.

Sealable heat shrink is another option but hard to use on an existing wiring harness.

Another thought... alway size your components, i.e. wire, fuses, relays, etc to the smallest amperage rated component.
 
   / LED light questions. #7  
Got it now. I actually used the same one when I hooked up my light bar. If I remember correctly it came with the automotive style connector that mates with the harness. There are two terminals, the gray shell and a lock. Basically crimp the terminals on the wire, push them into the gray shell from the back. Then insert the orange lock into the front of the connector to lock everything into place. I got the two circuit one and it only came with one connector. I bought another one from Digikey, but I had to call tech support to get all the right pieces.
 
   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Got it. Thanks buddy!
 
   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Is the toggle switch waterproof? Where's a good place to mount it? I saw where a guy mounted them inside a waterproof mini-tackle box
 
   / LED light questions. #10  
I was just reading the Opt7 Sw Harness specs.
They are built with 14 gauge wire and include a 30 amp fuse, this sounds good but, 14 gauge wire is rated for 15 amps not 30 amps.
What can happen if there is a shorted condition is the 30 amp fuse won't blow and the wire will melt and then a fire.

I am not sure what the draw for two 27 watt LED Lights is but you need to use a wire sized for the amperage,or a larger gauge than needed and a fuse rated for the components on the circuits.

Think about building your own harness, an easy task and cheaper.

Me thinking out loud again.
 
   / LED light questions. #11  
Is the toggle switch waterproof? Where's a good place to mount it? I saw where a guy mounted them inside a waterproof mini-tackle box

The IP67 rating means it is water proof. I drilled a hole in my dash and mounted it next to my factory light switch. It took a couple hrs to fish the wire through the tractor and make it look good. I tried to follow the factory wire runs to keep everything neat.
 
   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
thanks. I will probably drop a 15 amp fuse into the harness so that it's all consistent, but my understanding is the draw on these LED lights is very small. I think watt=volt x amp, so that would put each 27watt light at 2.25 amps, or 4.5 amps on the harness in total.
 
   / LED light questions. #13  
I was just reading the Opt7 Sw Harness specs. They are built with 14 gauge wire and include a 30 amp fuse, this sounds good but, 14 gauge wire is rated for 15 amps not 30 amps. What can happen if there is a shorted condition is the 30 amp fuse won't blow and the wire will melt and then a fire. I am not sure what the draw for two 27 watt LED Lights is but you need to use a wire sized for the amperage,or a larger gauge than needed and a fuse rated for the components on the circuits. Think about building your own harness, an easy task and cheaper. Me thinking out loud again.

Scrambler I think you are right about the amperage but I did find this chart online that shows for a 12 v application 14 ga can carry 40 a.
Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems

All I can say is I haven't had any issues with mine and I have around 50 watts of led in three lights.
 
   / LED light questions. #14  
Not familiar with the OP's tractor, but I mounted similar lights on my L3130, without compromising the ROPs... ditto for the L3400. Here's some photos- the hinge brackets had holes in them which I utilized, and the switches, waterproof, are eBay items, around $6 ea. I used relays in both cases (probably overkill), and took power from the "work light" fuse circuit on the tractor's fuse block (switched) for the switches and ran a 14 gauge power supply, fused, direct from the battery to the relay to make a separate system from the tractor lights.
 

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   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Nice setup
 
   / LED light questions. #16  
Scrambler I think you are right about the amperage but I did find this chart online that shows for a 12 v application 14 ga can carry 40 a.
Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems

All I can say is I haven't had any issues with mine and I have around 50 watts of led in three lights.

50 watts is only about 4.2 amps. You could easily get away with 18 gauge wire for that, maybe even 20 gauge if you're brave.
That link you posted refers to two other charts for wire size and current in 12 volt systems. All three are different so automotive wiring clearly isn't an exact science!!
 
   / LED light questions.
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Figured out a way to mount them in the preexisting holes. Won't be able to fold rops up but that's fine for my purposes. Now just need to wire
 

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   / LED light questions. #18  
Scrambler I think you are right about the amperage but I did find this chart online that shows for a 12 v application 14 ga can carry 40 a.
Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems

All I can say is I haven't had any issues with mine and I have around 50 watts of led in three lights.

That chart is for voltage drop and not protection.
14g at 40 amps and shorted you will have a melted mess if not a fire.
 
   / LED light questions. #19  
Amperage is amperage... 40 amps calls for fine stranded 10 ga or 8 gauge wire.
It is better to over build than under build and worry about a fire.
I use the following wire gauge amperage rating.
16 ga wire = 10 amps
14 ga wire = 15 amps
12 ga wire = 20 amps
10 ga wire = 30 amps
There ratings cover safety factors and extended draw which can lead to problems if not accounted for.
There is the length of the wire to take into account but for most automotive/tractor uses base ratings for wire use is safer.

Alltherage's idea of lowering the fuse value is a good one, yes the draw of the LED lights is low and that is good, so change the fuse value for the lowest value needed; over build the circuit but under fuse it for safety.
54 watts calls for a 5 amp draw, lower the fuse to 10 amps.
You fuse the circuit for the lowest amperage draw component.

I would rather be safe than sorry.
 

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