LED light questions.

[All In A Days Work]

I plan on using a relay, but I like how heavy duty the switch that blue72camaro and 5 picker posted.

 

[blue72camaro]

I have relays that I could use for each light circuit but I just dont see the need. The light I am using for the rear facing shouldn't pull more than 2.5 amp and the switch is rated at 25 so why add the complication and another part to fail. Even with the forward facing I dont plan on using anything that would use over 10 amps and I will fuse both circuits accordingly at the fuse block I am adding.

 

[Scrambler82]

I plan on using a relay, but I like how heavy duty the switch that blue72camaro and 5 picker posted.

With a rely you can run any switch you want.

I have relays that I could use for each light circuit but I just dont see the need. The light I am using for the rear facing shouldn't pull more than 2.5 amp and the switch is rated at 25 so why add the complication and another part to fail. Even with the forward facing I dont plan on using anything that would use over 10 amps and I will fuse both circuits accordingly at the fuse block I am adding.

Yes, if the switches are large enou you don't have to use a relay and the power wire is fused for the load created by the lights, plus any surge factors.

Usually relays are used for high amperage loads or when the load exceeds the component amperage rating, so it is a personal preference in your case.
My reasoning is old school, hard to break old habits.

 

[All In A Days Work]

I already have a power wire run from the battery back to the dash. I want to have the lights switched from the ignitio. So no matter what switch I use, I plan on using relays. I guess I am a little old school also.

 

[Scrambler82]

Having a relay actuated by the ignition that controls a fused power wire, supplying power to a bank of switches is nothing new; you see it in most vehicles and it works well.

Fuse the power wire for the load of all the switches and fuse each switch for each light or set of lights.

Easy clean and will work well.

Luck.

 

[mangus580]

When I started adding electrical stuff to my tractor, I added a solenoid under the hood, switched by the ignition, powering a fuse box. This gives me 6 fusible, keyed, power sources.

 

[Scrambler82]

Blue Seas has a great line of waterproof circuit panels and other electrical devices for Marine and RV applications. No relay build in but easily added.

A little less waterproof is the Painless Wiring Unit called the Circuit Boss. There two units have relays build in just add power and accessories.

Make sure you fuse the power source wires and as close to,the power source as possible.

I am glad it was mentioned about a circuit panel i was thinking along this line but it slipped this old mind but now I put it on the list... "Add waterproof, relay controlled, circuit panel for tractor lights and Seat area".

Thks

 

[blue72camaro]

I already have a power wire run from the battery back to the dash. I want to have the lights switched from the ignitio. So no matter what switch I use, I plan on using relays. I guess I am a little old school also.

We are both doing the same thing, just going about it differently. I will put a single ignition switched relay on the feed to my fuse panel and distribute from there to all my lights and other accessories. Does the same thing but I only have to use one relay to switch 4 circuits instead of a relay for each circuit.

 

[newbury]

I have to say that the opt7 harness ended up being the perfect length for this tractor. The battery is all the way in the front of the tractor which made me nervous at first. I'm not the most capable at this stuff but it was pretty easy with some patience. I'm sure there are easier ways to wire these in but I wanted the lights to be separate so I didn't compromise anything. Loving the result and can't wait to add front lights somehow

OP - I'm needing to do similar for my M4700.

Where do all of you get your lights?

A quick search and I see:
TUFF LED LIGHTS 4 Inch Square 27watt LED Work Lamp Light 1550 Lumen, $90 for 4, Amazon
4PCS OFFROAD 4" 18W CREE LED LIGHT BAR, 1800 Lumen, 4 for $83 - ebay
PAIR 4 LED Square Lights, 16W, 1440 lumens 2 for $90, thus 4 for $180 from Light It Up Offroad, an advertiser here.

Any recommendations?

 

[alltherage]

I got mine on ebay. Do a search for 2x27w led addmotor. Addmotor is the vendor. Should be 28.99 for the 2 together. I just ordered 2 more!!

 

[newbury]

I got mine on ebay. Do a search for 2x27w led addmotor. Addmotor is the vendor. Should be 28.99 for the 2 together. I just ordered 2 more!!

Thanks BUT:
The vendor ONLY uses paypal and ONLY ships to the paypal address. My Paypal address is in Virginia, I'm in Mississippi (with my M4700) until at least April.

Also - a NO return policy.

I'll wait till I get to Va if nothing else shows up.

 

[alltherage]

There were other vendors accouple bucks higher for the same lights. Addmotor shipped quickly and i was completely happy. Make sure you look at the physical measurements on the add. I ordered 2 from another vendor because i thought they were the same and cheaper. Nope...they are tiny and plastic. Car running lights. Advertised as 2x27w though.

 

[stnemason]

I picked up a pair of these from Amazon after a friend recommended them after he put them on his tractor. $35.99 and free shipping. They seem very rugged. Planning on installing tomorrow, hence why I am here reading how tonight...

Amazon.com: TaoTronics® Off Road LED Lights Waterproof Work Lights LED off road Work Light Light Bar off road light bar Pack of 2 27w Dc 12v 24v LED Flood Work Lamp Off Road Floodlight 4x4 -Jeep Cabin/boat/suv/truck/car/atvs Fishing Deck Driving Light

Or search: TaoTronics® Off Road LED Lights Waterproof Work Lights LED off road Work Light Light Bar off road light bar Pack of 2 27w Dc 12v 24v LED Flood

 

[Mika75]

I have been following this thread, and have been looking at others. I have a BX25DBL. I found the taped up wiring accessory harness in the rear of the tractor where others said it would be. My question is this; I found three wires all taped up. One was a black wire with a bare metal end. A ground, I am assuming. The other two are red and black striped. One larger in diameter than the other. The larger one is hot all the time, and connected to the 20 "work light" fuse. The smaller red and black wire is only hot when the ignition is on. Can anyone tell me what that wire is for?

 

[aeblank]

I bought 6 of these guys and mounted 4 of them.
http://tinyurl.com/ntrkbw8

LOVE 'EM.

I blow snow at 5AM while the kid is sleeping and my wife is in the shower. I have my own "zone of daylight". The joke is that I blind any squirrels that I might wake up.

I would have done a light bar, but my ROPs has to be down to fit in the garage. So, I mounted these on the ROPs hinge plates.

 

[Mika75]

That's exactly what I bought 2 of. I will mount them on my ROPS, but my question is which wire to use. The heavier one is hot when the ignition is on. The smaller one operates with the light switch. Does it really matter which one I use?

 

[aeblank]

The lights don't care which one you use. Do you want your lights to come on with the light switch, or not?

Me, I ran a dedicated feed to an auxiliary fuse panel, then to switches, then to the lights. The feed is always hot, so I can turn the lights on with the tractor off. Many don't like it that way, I'm sure many others do. Just gotta decide what YOU want.

 

[The Suburban Farmer]

I bought 6 of these guys and mounted 4 of them.
http://tinyurl.com/ntrkbw8

LOVE 'EM.

I blow snow at 5AM while the kid is sleeping and my wife is in the shower. I have my own "zone of daylight". The joke is that I blind any squirrels that I might wake up.

I would have done a light bar, but my ROPs has to be down to fit in the garage. So, I mounted these on the ROPs hinge plates.

Those are the exact ones that I purchased as well, and they work great... 2 of those facing forward and one rectangular "light-bar" style that is rear-facing. I wired mine to the existing switch instead of putting them on an individual circuit, but I might change that this year. For mounting, I have the same issue as aeblank -- need to move the ROPS up and down for storage, so I made a mounting plate out of 1.5" angle iron -- mounted the lights to the angle iron and then used 2 u-bolts to connect it to the top of the ROPS. I didn't want to drill into the ROPS, and this has worked pretty well. I put the wires in a cable shield so that if they accidentally got caught in the ROPS hinge it wouldn't damage the wires, but that hasn't been a problem.

These things are like the sun. My neighbor even joked with me that I wake them up with my early morning snowplowing by causing his roosters to crow.

 

[Mika75]

Thank you aeblank and The Suburban Farmer!

No, I don't think I want mine to come on with the headlights. I will use the 'hot all the time' wire and make a fused switch box. I plan for now, to have one light face forward to act as a headlight, and the other to face backward for when I use the backhoe. Both on their own switch. In fact, I was thinking of having the one I will use for the backhoe on a swivel. This way I could have both face front when I drive at night. I ordered some switches off eBay. Waiting for them to come in before I do anything else.

Thank you both again for your response!

 

[All In A Days Work]

I put a Sun shade and some 27 watt LED lights on my tractor today.