My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter

   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #51  
I have a 5" cylinder using about 32" of stroke, and a 13 gpm pump.
Jim

That has to be brutal. And I thought dads 11gpm/4.5"x24" was slow.

How many HP is the motor?
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #52  
This is for everyone who wants to follow the theory that a beams strength only comes from flanges and not web.. This is beam in horizontal attitude. Flange on top and flange on bottom. Log splitter application..

Take a wooden ruler lay it flat on a table, hang 6 " off of table and hold down on the half on table.

Place one finger on very end of ruler that is hanging over floor..

Now give that end in mid air a soft push down toward floor until it flexes.

Note results...

Now rotate ruler 90 degrees with the same 6" hanging over. And push toward floor again, now this time push as hard as you like..

Note results...

Questions???????

MIKES RESEARCH ON BOX TUBING IS ON THE MARK.

Anyone that thinks his findings are wrong should not be handing out advice to others on this topic..
It is not advice at that point it is misinformation..

The flange and web work together..

This is not rocket science.
And no need to reinvent the wheel..

Ok Mike lets see some more progress..
The connection points for cylinder are important.
Not done proper they can be a weak spot..
As you know..
 
Last edited:
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#53  
I hope you line the 45 degree side tables. I like some flat area to rassel the bolt around to get it aligned the way I want. Of course I just have a single wedge. A six way would probably mean fewer choices.
I have a 5" cylinder using about 32" of stroke, and a 13 gpm pump. Cycle time is a boring 22 seconds. Yours sounds much better!
Keep us updated: this is real interesting.
Jim

I'm not sure about the 45 side table either. Just something I thought I'd try. It's is easy enough to remove if'n I don't like it.

I'm hoping I don't have to touch the log after I load it onto the lift. Just raise it up and have it role into place. I'm going to start with a 4 way wedge but then build a 6 way. I know a lot of people complain about there debris from a 6 way but my gasification boiler likes small splits.

I've got a bit more done but can't find any pics right now. I had hoped to get back working on it but I've been spending all my workshop getting my truck to pass inspection. Spent this afternoon replacing fuel tank straps.:(
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #54  
NH = salt, like MA. Ugh. Rusty straps are a pain.

Jim
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#55  
The cylinder attachment point is something I've second guessed. Here's what I have so far.

I used a piece of 9.5" wide 1/4" plate that I welded on 4 sides. I also cut 2" holes in the center of the plate that I welded around.

Over that I use 6" wide 1/2" flat stock, the entire perimeter is welded to the 1/4" plate.

Then I put some 1/2" flat stock on the top to attach the two sides.





And finally a piece of 6x1/2" flat stock vertically between the two side plates and up against the 1/4" tube for the jockey wheels



 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #56  
A little more progress on the out feed table, log lift and side table.

The out feed table is removable to save a little space in the barn.

I made the side tables at a 45 angle and removable. Hopefully by making them at angle I can raise a log with the lift and have it roll into place without having to touch it.

I also will be able to swap the side that the log lift is on.
Nice touches.

I welded on my log cradle/rest/stop ... and my lift will be non-swappable, side to side.

I was thinking though, since your log cradle/rest/stop is removable, it would be nice if it were adjustable (in/out) to accommodate the occasional huge round.

Just a thought.
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #57  
This is for everyone who wants to follow the theory that a beams strength comes from flanges and not web.. This is beam in horizontal attitude. Flange on top and flange on bottom. Log splitter application..

Take a wooden ruler lay it flat on a table, hang 6 " off of table and hold down on the half on table.

Place one finger on very end of ruler that is hanging over floor..

Now give that end in mid air a soft push down toward floor until it flexes.

Note results...

Now rotate ruler 90 degrees with the same 6" hanging over. And push toward floor again, now this time push as hard as you like..

Note results...

Questions???????

MIKES RESEARCH ON BOX TUBING IS ON THE MARK.

Anyone that thinks his findings are wrong should not be handing out advice to others on this topic..
It is not advice at that point it is misinformation..

The flange and web work together..

This is not rocket science.
And no need to reinvent the wheel..

Ok Mike lets see some more progress..
The connection points for cylinder are important.
Not done proper they can be a weak spot..
As you know..

Not sure who you are accusing of giving mis-information. Only misleading information I see is in your post. You ruler example means nothing. Flat steel is different than an I beam.

The only correct thing you have said is that the web and flanges work together. But we have already established that.

The fact is the strength comes from 2 main things
1. Amount of material located farthest from the center (someone earlier mentioned "extreme fiber"). For an I-beam, this would be the flanges
2. How far apart those extreme fibers are. IE: how tall the web is

I'll give you a simple W8x31 beam to prove my point.
This beam is 8" tall, and 8" wide.
The web is a thin 0.288" thick
Each flange is much thicker @ 0.433"

Using your incorrect logic, one would believe that the beam laying on its side, having the two thicker flanges being vertical would be stronger. After all, There is two pieces almost 1/2" thick and 8" being vertical as opposed only one thin web.

But that would be totally false. Infact, In I configuration with the flanges on top and bottom, the beam is 3 times stronger.
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #58  
It's the same idea as a wood I-beam used for floor joist. The web is usually only OSB while the top and bottom flanges are much heavier material. The top is under compression while the bottom is under tension. The webs job is to spread those compression and tension forces further apart. The further apart the stronger the beam. With the log splitter the top flange is under tension while the bottom is under compression the main reason I-beams fail is usually from a twisting action. When torsional forces are applied to an I-beam they are very weak. I have never seen a beam bend on a log splitter yet, twisting yes.

Great build by the way. I really like the cart setup. My father built a splitter years ago and I would love to rebuild it to better suit his needs. The cart setup you have would be the answer.
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #59  
Mike... any plans to add a gusset to beef up front to back pull on the real axle? Looks like you have the side to side built very stout.

I've got a lot of rough to very rough terrain that are hard on spring and axle mounts.
 
   / My 3rd and hopefully last log splitter #60  
Your pictures reminded me of something I saw in a Mennonite shop some time ago. Most thought invoking!

DSC01291.jpg
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Miller and Smith PNR-1000 Pull-Behind Proof Roller Trailer (A49461)
Miller and Smith...
2019 Komatsu PC490LC Hydraulic Excavator (A49461)
2019 Komatsu...
RIDE AND DRIVE INFO (A50775)
RIDE AND DRIVE...
2014 New Holland T8.360 MFWD Tractor (A51039)
2014 New Holland...
HUSKY 135 PSI AIR COMPRESSOR (A50854)
HUSKY 135 PSI AIR...
2021 Ver-Mac PCMS-3812 Solar S/A Towable Trailer Message Board (A49461)
2021 Ver-Mac...
 
Top