Tires R4s are better in the snow than R3 turfs

[curtisbeach]

You are correct about more gripping edges. I read a report on snow tires and why they grip. It is the leading edge that actually gets into the snow to propel a vehicle forward. Turf tires have more leading edges.

Although I have chains on my trufs now, just because I hate putting them on when the conditions A) require them and B) those conditions mean its nasty work, but the turfs work fine in regular snow. More gripping edges equal more traction. Nuff said.

 

[curtisbeach]

Most 4WD tractors are geared so the front wheels out drive the rear wheels when in 4WD. They have to in order to steer and to overcome the traction provided by the larger footprint of the rear tires.
This is the main reason tractors are not supposed to be in 4WD when on pavement. It tends to scrub the tread off the smaller front tires. Putting tire chains on just the rear tires in snow makes the no-turn situation more difficult. I had logging chains on my New Holland for two years and it moved forward easy enough but was difficult to turn. I now run tire chains on front and rear of both tractors with R4 tires. It is a rough ride when on hard surfaces with chains on. I read in the New Holland manual about the front wheel drive when in 4WD.

Gotta admit that R4s are better forward and backward in the snow than R3 turfs. R4s nor R3s turn in the snow worth a ****. Need individual rear brakes for that like my 4010 had or a JD 2025. R3s turn better on grass. R4s aren't worth a **** turning in grass, but they won't tear up the grass like R3s do in the turns (grip; tear).

Ralph

 

[RoyJackson]

Most 4WD tractors are geared so the front wheels out drive the rear wheels when in 4WD. They have to in order to steer and to overcome the traction provided by the larger footprint of the rear tires.
This is the main reason tractors are not supposed to be in 4WD when on pavement. It tends to scrub the tread off the smaller front tires. Putting tire chains on just the rear tires in snow makes the no-turn situation more difficult. I had logging chains on my New Holland for two years and it moved forward easy enough but was difficult to turn. I now run tire chains on front and rear of both tractors with R4 tires. It is a rough ride when on hard surfaces with chains on. I read in the New Holland manual about the front wheel drive when in 4WD.

The Deere dealers don't recommend chains on the fronts because it can over stress the front driveline...also, on some tractors, there are clearance concerns.
I've never used front chains...but I did have to learn how to use the split brakes for turning.

 

[curtisbeach]

I do admit there are clearance concerns especially with logging chains. I rum bar grip chains on the front and on the Mahindra with little room for clearance on the Mahindra. I reversed the wheels on the New Holland for more clearance. Stress on the front drive? Most tractors come with loaders and owners push lifting to the max lots of times. This means the weight you lift plus the tractor weight is on the front drive axle. The front drive train takes the biggest beating on the tractor unless, you are actually farming with rear implements. My cousin broke the front drive shaft on his 23hp Kubota when the tractor needed the 4WD for traction to slow it down on a steep bank. The tractor took a fast ride to the bottom with no injuries.

 

[jonnmero]

Those of you who don't use chains on the wheels in snow, is that because the terrain you use the tractor in is quite flat? Here in Norway I wouldn't even consider not using chains, but it ain't very flat either.

 

[Reg]

but R3s are BETTER with chains than R4s with chains - assuming you NEED the traction and don't care about the (FROZEN) "lawn" underneath.
R4s and even WORSE R1s just swallow chains into the gaps between lugs, R3s keep all that steel out there where it BITES.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Exactly - they look great, but aren't worth much except for loader work where the stiff sidewalls prevent blowouts. They are worst of all worlds when it comes to traction.

True. I have had issues climbing out of ditches, or over rocks and logs. Occasional use of the FEL to push out, or engage the differential lock to climb out work fine, and of course I can always put chains on to exponentially increase traction. R4's are what you want if you're going to be doing work where there are a lot of sharp or pointy things that could punch or cut your tires (such as broken stone or lots of broken branches.) Not much of that plowing snow.

Of course the best of both worlds would be to have two sets of tires.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I had a 955 for several years. I didn't know much about compact tractors as this was my first one. I found a set of old tractor tire chains and cut them down to fit the tires on my 955 because as everybody knows you need traction in snow. I never used them and when I traded the tractor they went with.

By the way my 955 had R-3's.

Of course the best of both worlds would be to have two sets of tires.

I disagree with this statement! I think the best of both worlds would be to have two sets of tractors!

 

[mmurphydds]

Boy, my experience has been just the opposite, both in the snow and on grass. And just last night, when I was plowing the 9" we got yesterday, my neighbor commented again that he wished he had my big Titan R3s on his Kubota M6040, instead of his R4s. He has to use chains. The Titan R3s are very impressive. I'm thinking the overall size of the tire may make a difference in the effectiveness of specific tread styles. The bigger the tires, the bigger and deeper the lugs on the R3s.

Gotta agree with you on this. My friend has the JD4520 with R4's and I have the JD4720 with the Titan R3's you have. Neither tractors have fluid fill or wheel weights. We both live in the same town (same temps and snowfall amounts) and have the similar size driveway/apron areas, so that's about as close to a head-to-head comparison you can get. For snow moving and scraping down the concrete, he hates his R4's and I love my R3's. We both use 4WD moving snow. He even went out and bought a JD3320 with R3's (for a landscaping side business) and uses it instead for snow moving.

On turf grass, we have both agreed that the R3's do less damage in 2WD, and I don't use 4WD on my relatively flat lawn. On hills or in the woods I know R3's are not as good, so I keep the loader on and carry a box scraper for weight or am assisted by the weight of my rotary mower when dressing my trails.

 

[jonnmero]

I had a 955 for several years. I didn't know much about compact tractors as this was my first one. I found a set of old tractor tire chains and cut them down to fit the tires on my 955 because as everybody knows you need traction in snow. I never used them and when I traded the tractor they went with.



I disagree with this statement! I think the best of both worlds would be to have two sets of tractors!

Sure saves a lot of work, but on a half-acre somewhat hilly block it would be a bit crowded.

 

[urbandeere2520]

Those of you who don't use chains on the wheels in snow, is that because the terrain you use the tractor in is quite flat? Here in Norway I wouldn't even consider not using chains, but it ain't very flat either.

I'm moving vast quantities of snow using a 2520 with R4s and no chains on a 20 degree slope asphalt driveway with no issues.

 

[jonnmero]

Asphalt being the key item here. Anyplace the is maintained as a regular travel way particularly with asphalt usually has been cleaned of enough snow and ice so it travelers or maintenance vehicles do not need chains, (dirt roads can be quite different though). Especially if you are in a place where snow may not be a constant part of everyday life. Unless of course you work in the woods in said areas or perhaps if you live where the weather channel show "Highway Through ****" is, or a comparable area like mountainous roads, notches, passes or more northern areas. There is such a thing as what is called black ice. So if you live in snow & ice rich areas in everyday life continuously for many months at a time, chains may be a good option.

Several good and for me valid points. Also, the snow mower is attached behind the tractor, so the use of chains is not an option, as indeed all tractors around here use chains or studs. (Your darling wife is the person sitting on the tractor, and not the tractor? Just looked at another thread where love of tractors is the theme ;-)

 

[bigtiller]

I find Turfs to be the best in the winter. Good grip on ice, nice wide footprint. The only thing they don't handle well is 6 - 8 inch of corn or meal type snow, then again not much does.

I never heard of that kind of snow.

 

[arrow]

but R3s are BETTER with chains than R4s with chains - assuming you NEED the traction and don't care about the (FROZEN) "lawn" underneath.
R4s and even WORSE R1s just swallow chains into the gaps between lugs, R3s keep all that steel out there where it BITES.

Yes and no. Ags only "swallow" chains that are tight. Loosening of chains on R1's is the difference maker as they are not swallowed at the bottom of the tire.

 

[DK35vince]

I have R-4's and they are useless in snow/ice.
I chain up all 4 and can push snow.

 

[check]

Those of you who don't use chains on the wheels in snow, is that because the terrain you use the tractor in is quite flat? Here in Norway I wouldn't even consider not using chains, but it ain't very flat either.

For me it is mostly because they are such a pain to put on, but also because I have v-bar chains which yield a very rough ride on pavement, plus my property is relatively flat. I have to drive about 300 yards down the paved road from one of my properties to the other, but if I was just on the one bigger 25 acre property which has a gravel drive, I would put the chains on and leave them on all winter.

 

[Red Horse]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

 

[jonnmero]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

Sounds like you could use something similar to my KWB snow chains. Great on asphalt as well. They are Austrian, but I think (but can't guarantee) that they are available in North America as well. The circumferential part should help to avoid the chain falling in between the cleats.

 

[arrow]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

This is one of the biggest myths in tractor tire chains of "falling between the cleats" If you make them "tight", they will do little to help your traction. They need to be loose as in "no tensioners" or at least loosened tensioners so the chains can "work" as they come around and make ground contact. When loosened, they look like they fall between lugs on top of the tire but coming around to make ground contact, a loosened chain will "hang" and will be the first thing to make ground contact.
Your larger problem is clearance. A big tire needs a big link (at least 3/8") to be effective. Without wheel spacers of some type, you may not be able to put this large a chain on your tractor. If indeed that is the case, then you need a smaller link but more cross chain (2 link).
The simplest chain for you would be the 2 link ladder If you can fit them on w/o hitting the tractor. There are designs that use a smaller link purposely for clearance problems. Big tires usually mean expensive chain but 2 link ladders would mitigate some of the cost of going to more exotic designs.

 

[RockyNY]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

I am going to be ordering up a set of these non v-bar chains for my tractor with R4's:
DUO-Grip tire chains for farm tractors