Tires R4s are better in the snow than R3 turfs

[urbandeere2520]

Those of you who don't use chains on the wheels in snow, is that because the terrain you use the tractor in is quite flat? Here in Norway I wouldn't even consider not using chains, but it ain't very flat either.

I'm moving vast quantities of snow using a 2520 with R4s and no chains on a 20 degree slope asphalt driveway with no issues.

 

[jonnmero]

Asphalt being the key item here. Anyplace the is maintained as a regular travel way particularly with asphalt usually has been cleaned of enough snow and ice so it travelers or maintenance vehicles do not need chains, (dirt roads can be quite different though). Especially if you are in a place where snow may not be a constant part of everyday life. Unless of course you work in the woods in said areas or perhaps if you live where the weather channel show "Highway Through ****" is, or a comparable area like mountainous roads, notches, passes or more northern areas. There is such a thing as what is called black ice. So if you live in snow & ice rich areas in everyday life continuously for many months at a time, chains may be a good option.

Several good and for me valid points. Also, the snow mower is attached behind the tractor, so the use of chains is not an option, as indeed all tractors around here use chains or studs. (Your darling wife is the person sitting on the tractor, and not the tractor? Just looked at another thread where love of tractors is the theme ;-)

 

[bigtiller]

I find Turfs to be the best in the winter. Good grip on ice, nice wide footprint. The only thing they don't handle well is 6 - 8 inch of corn or meal type snow, then again not much does.

I never heard of that kind of snow.

 

[arrow]

but R3s are BETTER with chains than R4s with chains - assuming you NEED the traction and don't care about the (FROZEN) "lawn" underneath.
R4s and even WORSE R1s just swallow chains into the gaps between lugs, R3s keep all that steel out there where it BITES.

Yes and no. Ags only "swallow" chains that are tight. Loosening of chains on R1's is the difference maker as they are not swallowed at the bottom of the tire.

 

[DK35vince]

I have R-4's and they are useless in snow/ice.
I chain up all 4 and can push snow.

 

[check]

Those of you who don't use chains on the wheels in snow, is that because the terrain you use the tractor in is quite flat? Here in Norway I wouldn't even consider not using chains, but it ain't very flat either.

For me it is mostly because they are such a pain to put on, but also because I have v-bar chains which yield a very rough ride on pavement, plus my property is relatively flat. I have to drive about 300 yards down the paved road from one of my properties to the other, but if I was just on the one bigger 25 acre property which has a gravel drive, I would put the chains on and leave them on all winter.

 

[Red Horse]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

 

[jonnmero]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

Sounds like you could use something similar to my KWB snow chains. Great on asphalt as well. They are Austrian, but I think (but can't guarantee) that they are available in North America as well. The circumferential part should help to avoid the chain falling in between the cleats.

 

[arrow]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

This is one of the biggest myths in tractor tire chains of "falling between the cleats" If you make them "tight", they will do little to help your traction. They need to be loose as in "no tensioners" or at least loosened tensioners so the chains can "work" as they come around and make ground contact. When loosened, they look like they fall between lugs on top of the tire but coming around to make ground contact, a loosened chain will "hang" and will be the first thing to make ground contact.
Your larger problem is clearance. A big tire needs a big link (at least 3/8") to be effective. Without wheel spacers of some type, you may not be able to put this large a chain on your tractor. If indeed that is the case, then you need a smaller link but more cross chain (2 link).
The simplest chain for you would be the 2 link ladder If you can fit them on w/o hitting the tractor. There are designs that use a smaller link purposely for clearance problems. Big tires usually mean expensive chain but 2 link ladders would mitigate some of the cost of going to more exotic designs.

 

[RockyNY]

I've had a 755, and a 3320 over the years both with R-3's and chains. Replaced the 3320 with a 4720 also with R-3's and chains and quickly decided this thing in mud was useless. And regarding someone's comment about a "nice wide footprint" with R-3's, IMO that is NOT an advantage-at least from a "pounds per square inch" of ground contact. I would say the R-3's on the 3320 were much narrower than the R-3's on the 4720 (44's??). In any case, I got a good deal on a set of R-4's with rims from my dealer and sold the R-3's.

Again appreciate the toughness of the R-4's in the woods and when doing loader work, but with some 90" of snow here since mid January, and plenty of ice on the ground chains would be nice.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good chain for R-4's keeping in mind if the fall into the "void" between the cleats you have accomplished nothing. Also have to be sensitive to fender clearance. And one last thing. I don't have a lot of overhead clearance in the barn bay I keep this in as it has an OH door.

Any thoughts?

I am going to be ordering up a set of these non v-bar chains for my tractor with R4's:
DUO-Grip tire chains for farm tractors