Welding a Yanmar block. HELP

/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #1  

davecharles

Bronze Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
50
Location
Carbondale IL
Tractor
Yanmar 2220D Yanmar 240D
I'm in the middle of a complete overhaul on my YM240 Yanmar. I was cleaning the block getting ready to install new liners, pistons, rings etc when I found a crack in the block (water jacket) below the water inlet. The horizontal crack is about 3 to 4 inches long. I know to drill the ends of the crack and clean out the crack. I need to know who has successfully welded an old Yanmar block. I have a mig welder with 75/25 gas or 100% helium. What wire is best on the iron? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I am a novice welder. If it is too difficult to weld I can take it to my local machine shop.
Dave
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #2  
Take it to a machine shop that has experience with cast iron repairs.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #4  
If you are not willing to pay a pro then drilling holes at each end of the crack to keep the crack from spreading and then brazing it is the surest and safest repair by a novice for most cast irons. That said, if the repair is more structural in nature to the engine block then I might rethink brazing, but brazing is stronger than most give it credit for. Simple non-structural water jacket no problem.

Drilling the holes at each crack end and then using an acetylene torch and appropriate cast filler rod can also be done but it takes skill.

Lock stitch is also good but can be pricey.

Arc welding on cast can be a big mistake if done wrong especially on something that has to expand and contract with temperature changes like an engine block has to. If this was a $10 part then I might risk some less than recommended repairs but an expensive engine block then I would limit my risks for things to go awry and use the best method that I could for the crack type - especially on an engine that I was rebuilding.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #5  
If you are goint to weld then use a Ni rod designed to weld cast iron. I would also preheat and control cool the welded cast. If it is not a stress being area braze the crack as others have said.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #6  
Yes, brazing is an option BUT in order to braze it, it has to be stripped down to the bare block a preheated to 1000 deg's or so. Some people have had success with a good epoxy on a water jacket leak.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #7  
Here is a very interesting read on cast iron welding. Not near as easy as one would think.
Be sure to view the powerpoint presentation at the bottom of the page.
Cast Iron Welding
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #9  
I have limited experience welding cast, but have done it. Had to repair an expensive racing engine block one time. It was a shot in the dark, either fix the old block or buy a new one and than do all the expensive machineing needed to get it race ready. Nothing to lose by trying to weld it so I did. First thing I did was drill the ends of the crack. Then vee'd out with angle grinder. Then took a propane torch (weed burner) and preheated around the weld area to 900*f. I kept the propane torch handy during the entire welding process. I would weld about 1 inch at a time using my mig and 70es wire. I would then take the torch and apply heat until the entire weld area was a even 900*f and then repeat procedure of welding, 1 inch at a time and add heat. Once weld was complete, we set the entire engine block over the wood heater with a roaring fire and let set until fire died and engine cooled off. No cracks and engine won ten races that year and has been rebuilt several times since.

I also brazed up a old water pump that had froze and busted the whole side out of it. I didnt have the money to buy a new pump, so it was either fix it or do without water. Followed pretty much same procedure as welding the engine block, except at that time I didnt have a propane torch to preheat with. Since it was winter and I had a fire in the old barrel stove, I set the pump head on top of the stove and did all brazing with pump setting on the stove. I had every thing on I could to keep the stove from burning me up while brazing and it took several step backs away from the stove for me to cool off before the braze was complete. Left pump head on stove over nite and put together and reinstalled the next day. Far as I know that pump is still in the pump house and working fine.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you for the replies. Looks like a trip to the machine shop to get a bid. If I can afford their price I'll have them weld it. If it's too high I'll use $5.00 worth of epoxy.
Dave
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #12  
Find someone with a spray powder torch and spray it up. Simple and will never crack or leak.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #14  
I would braze it as well. I don't think you'll need to strip the block. You only need to heat the local area for brazing usually, having made a few brazing repairs like this myself. Make sure you use some fresh flux or a fresh brazing rod with flux. Clean it up as good as possible though around the crack and follow all the normal prep procedures like drilling the ends of the cracks. Use a magnyfying glass and plenty of light to make sure you are at the crack's end though.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #15  
I'm in the middle of a complete overhaul on my YM240 Yanmar. I was cleaning the block getting ready to install new liners, pistons, rings etc when I found a crack in the block (water jacket) below the water inlet. The horizontal crack is about 3 to 4 inches long. I know to drill the ends of the crack and clean out the crack. I need to know who has successfully welded an old Yanmar block. I have a mig welder with 75/25 gas or 100% helium. What wire is best on the iron? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I am a novice welder. If it is too difficult to weld I can take it to my local machine shop.
Dave

I welded a flange that had broken completely off of the block on my 1948 Farmall Cub. Used a Hobart LX Stickmate welder and Super Missile rod (1/8" dia, DC+, 100 amps).

You need to grind a V to clean out the crack and drill the ends of the crack to keep it from propagating.

Use short welds (3/4" or so) to keep the cast iron under about 300F. I use a cheap IR thermometer from Harbor Freight. Let the material cool back to room temperature before running the next bead. Start at one end of the crack. Then the other end and continue this type of skip welding until you reach the middle of the crack.

You need to use a welding rod/wire that's good for stainless steel (rod has a high nickel content).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwF4iYgkd0U

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0857244

Good luck.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #16  
Stainless rods and nickel rods are 2 different things and although I like Lanse, aka Chuck, he is not the one to go to for advice on welding cast iron.
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #17  
I hate to say this but I have had so good of luck with jB waterweld I would try it first.it hasn't failed me in a application yer it is a putty that dries rock hard and bonds to nearly everything, the old me would have welded it but his stuff is so good I would try it first!!!!
 
/ Welding a Yanmar block. HELP #18  
little late to this party, but check with an old implement dealer or mechanic the old farmalls and IH tractors used to develop cracks all the time with loader use. They drilled tapped and installed tapered cast-iron plugs then drilled and tapped right alongside of them and put the next one in with a half moon drilled hole thru the one before locking it in place and grinding it flush. have a couple of 6.9 fofrd diesels crack alongside the freeze plug hole where the soft plug heater went, did this to 2 of mine and another one for someone else. don't remember what exactly they called them but at the time got them from and IH dealer put in the plugs last one partways into the freeze plug hole then ground it out and put an o-ring sealed plug in the hole. They both held for over 250,000 miles one engine is in a grain truck now I think there is close to 38yrs and 400,000 on the block repair.
 

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