tawilson
Platinum Member
Sounds like a good situation to justify a logging winch.
Cutting Trees at an Angle
- Thread starter TJP89
- Start date
- Views: 8664
CobyRupert
Super Member
Yup
A long cable is your friend.
A cable on a hung up tree where the butt is hung up too can "lever over" the tree and kill if the cable is hooked on the tree too high, or wheelie you tractor if hooked low.
Another problem with a hung up tree is the kerf doesn't open away from saw bar as with a normal tree that learns more as you cut. Learn some cuts and how to use a wedge so all the down force of the tree doesn't end up on your bar and you have a pinched saw, game over.
Don't ask me how I know.
Be careful, sometimes when "they go" it's quick and without warning unlike a tree that slowly leans over. And the upper part of the tree wants to chase your saw to the ground;
MFWD
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2012
- Messages
- 112
- Location
- South Mountain, Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- 2002 New Holland TC35D with cab, a 2007 New Holland Skid Steer and a 1970's 154 Cub Lo-Boy, 2016 John Deere XUV 550 Gator
Hello,
I usually use my skid steer and a long steel cable or long chain. Even then, sometimes it's very difficult to get them down. Sometimes the way they get hung up in other trees seems to lock them in. If you can come at them in all directions, most of the time you can beat them !!!!!! I'm not sure what I would do without my skid steer !!!!! Good luck !!!!!
MFWD
I usually use my skid steer and a long steel cable or long chain. Even then, sometimes it's very difficult to get them down. Sometimes the way they get hung up in other trees seems to lock them in. If you can come at them in all directions, most of the time you can beat them !!!!!! I'm not sure what I would do without my skid steer !!!!! Good luck !!!!!
MFWD
arrow
Super Member
Here wedges are your friends. You'll need at least 4. The tree is being supported so you cannot "fell" it. What you can do s use your ck to pull it off it's stump once you make cuts to free it. Make two felling cuts on opposite sides of each other one on the lean side and the other opposite and parallel to the ground. I usually cut the lean side first. Leave about a 3"-4" hinge. Bang in 4 wedges into these cuts as you are going along: 2 on one side, two on the other about a foot apart for an 18" tree. Plunge cut or continue cutting the hinge out. The wedges will prevent the tree from crushing the chainsaw bar. The tree should now be free of it's stump and because the cuts are parallel to the ground, your tractor should easily pull it off it's stump. I've had big leaners slide off the stump all by themselves but these are like finding pearls in oysters.
Now here's what to watch out for. Some trees will want to twist off their stump which is fine because you are never standing in back of the tree to be the brunt of a possible deadly "kick out". As suggested, use a long cable and or pulley snatch block as sometimes, as Coby already stated, a tree will grab it's stump and the top will start moving toward the pull line especially if the tree is not leaning very much. A long enough cable coupled with a perpendicular pull and a low cable set, will mitigate this being problematic. I've taken down hundreds of "leaners" this way with few problems. Start with smaller trees until you get the hang of it but I usually reserve this method for larger trees. For that 6-12" tree, I use the following method:
Make a felling "notch" opposite the lean side about 3'-4' up. Make the felling cut. The tree will collapse on itself. Keep cutting like this until the rest of the tree hits the ground or pull the rest of the tree off with the tractor.
If you cannot get a tractor in there, a 2-4 ton come along can be used.
Now here's what to watch out for. Some trees will want to twist off their stump which is fine because you are never standing in back of the tree to be the brunt of a possible deadly "kick out". As suggested, use a long cable and or pulley snatch block as sometimes, as Coby already stated, a tree will grab it's stump and the top will start moving toward the pull line especially if the tree is not leaning very much. A long enough cable coupled with a perpendicular pull and a low cable set, will mitigate this being problematic. I've taken down hundreds of "leaners" this way with few problems. Start with smaller trees until you get the hang of it but I usually reserve this method for larger trees. For that 6-12" tree, I use the following method:
Make a felling "notch" opposite the lean side about 3'-4' up. Make the felling cut. The tree will collapse on itself. Keep cutting like this until the rest of the tree hits the ground or pull the rest of the tree off with the tractor.
If you cannot get a tractor in there, a 2-4 ton come along can be used.
Last edited:
square1
Veteran Member
This technique, while scary as all get out, is effective and probably one of the safest. My heart races and adrenalin pumps every time I use it. Do heed the warnings of safety everyone here has given, including the ones in the video.
Always keep an eye on the kerf in addition to the top of the tree (you have two eyes for a reason
). The kerf will indicate which way the tree is going to release as it begins to open. If there is sideways energy being released and the kerf opens opens toward you that's a very real reason to rethink your position and either move or get ready to move.
Always keep an eye on the kerf in addition to the top of the tree (you have two eyes for a reason
). The kerf will indicate which way the tree is going to release as it begins to open. If there is sideways energy being released and the kerf opens opens toward you that's a very real reason to rethink your position and either move or get ready to move.
Egon
Epic Contributor
A good sharp felling axe may be the easiest way to separate the leaned tree from their roots. If using a chain saw having a extra bar and chain makes life much easier at pinch time.
arrow
Super Member
I"m scratching my head at this as he states "I didn't need to escape". The separation happened so fast he couldn't if he wanted to. I feel there are safer methods for this problem for the casual chainsaw user. Good advice Square about "watching the kerf" as a tell tale of a tree going to twist.
arrow
Super Member
Very sage Egon about the extra bar and chain or an extra chainsaw. Nobody can have just one chainsaw right?
Andre Belliveau
New member
It's a challenge for sure. I do selective cutting and I get trees hung up all the time. I can usually count on the wind to get them down. Failing that I hang my block with a choker chain on another tree close to the one that's hungup; run my cable through the block and down to the but of the tree. A pull with the winch and it comes down. Safety first. Stay clear. Good luck.
