What features of a UT are superior to a CUT in a rough, hilly, forest setting

[tcreeley]

IDK the difference between a UT and a CUT?


Is it HP?

 

[vtsnowedin]

IDK the difference between a UT and a CUT?


Is it HP?

The line between them is a bit fuzzy. As Compact is in the name of the CUTs I would say size is first consideration but my 5045E is sometimes called a "Compact tractor" even by John Deere. At 5040lbs for the bare Machine , a wheel base of 81 inches and 13.6X28 rear tires I don't consider it compact but a standard Utility tractor.
Now you can get CUTs with a lot more horse power then my 45 and in a lot smaller frame weighing a lot less but where you want to draw the line between them is up to you.
Perhaps you could consider hitch capability. Maybe rate all the category zeros as sub compacts, The category one only as compacts. Those that are one and two as Utility and two only as Big AG.

 

[silvertramp]

View attachment 418902

Forest setting is rough, rocky, and I have a dozer coming in to clear wide trails.

That first pic looks a lot like my property. I'm able to creep around pretty well with my Yanmar 276D. (27hp, 12 speed forward, 4x4) It's small enough to usually get to where I need to be, and the 12 speed lets me go really slow if necessary.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I don't know of any true Utility Tractors that aren't CAT II on the 3 PH as a minimum and of course the bigger Ag UT may be CAT III. Most CUT's are Cat I so there is a true distinction.
I have one of each CUT (26 HP) and UT (70 HP) and I wouldn't swear that one is more stable than the other. One thing that I can do with my UT is widen the stance with the adjustable rims whereas my Kubota B26 CUT has fixed rim width and cant be adjusted at all. The width on the B26 is less than my RTV 900 so it feels a bit tippy on a slope, more so than my utility tractor but both can tip at the drop of the hat when transporting materials with the FEL so caution is needed when using the FEL even on moderate slopes.
Every thing else has been mentioned about being stronger built etc but I cant say that they are built proportionally stronger per HP. They do have to be heavier and stronger to handle the extra HP but that doesn't mean that they are really any stronger per HP. My B26 weighs 4001 pounds with FEL & backhoe and has a 26 HP motor. MY LS P7010 tractor weighs 6675 + 1895 for FEL without bucket which probably weighs 800 more so approximately 9000 total.

 

[newbury]

OP -
Multiple threads for the same topic can be confusing.

What features of Utility Tractor outperform a Compact Tractor in a hilly, rough, 100 acres bush lot setting ?
Basically doing some small food plots, firewood, and trails for Maple Syrup in the deep spring snow.

Suggestions on the type of tractor seem to be a resounding Utility Tractor.
I am trying to understand exactly what features are superior and how so.
Traction, ground clearance, more rigid cab structure, more solid frame ?
Heard center of gravity ? But I thought that CUT's were lower to the ground given the height of the Utility's that I have sat in.

Thanks

First of all I couldn't find the "split" of SCUT vs CUT vs Utility but I think of them like in the Kubota lineup
BX series - SCUT, small front wheels
B (and smaller L) series - CUT
M series - Utility, generally above 50 HP, engine.

The utility will give you more lift and ground engagement (pull). Define what you HAVE to lift that can't be broken down into smaller pieces. If all you are doing to the trees is cutting firewood and hauling sap you may not need a utility. These things can probably be broken down smaller pieces and hauled in into several trips. However if you HAVE to be able to pick up a 200 gallon tank full of maple syrup with the loader a CUT may barely manage it. This is often seen when moving bales of hay. If you are buying bales by the 1400 lb rolled bales you'd better be able to handle it.

Other than that and ground clearance a CUT can do everything a Utility can do, it just takes more time. and ground clearance is important in the woods.

Having read some of your other thread I think a Utility tractor would be your best bet.

I've a Kubota M4700, 50HP/42HP @ PTO. I bought that to add to my B7610. I needed more lift capacity. I've about 300 acres of Mississippi woodland. I needed to be able to pick up a 10 foot log for my sawmill and that required a utility tractor.

 

[fishheadbob]

Sounds like you plan on being in the woods. A utility tractor can pull more as it's heavier and comes with larger tires; if you're skidding logs a ut will do more in less time. A heavier tractor will come with aggressive R1 tires and obviously dig in more. Those same tires will often do some damage to lawns.
Someone earlier said that a glass cab in the woods will result in broken windows sooner or later. I agree.

 

[ovrszd]

As I mentioned in another thread, I own and operate a Grand L CUT and M UT and while I can't debate physics etc., I know from personal experience and that of my sons and brother, all experienced drivers, our M is much more stable and will either operate in places our GL won't or if it will the pucker factor is way up there.

One day, I was bush hogging the farm where my son lives with the GL and got to a really rough section of land with some significant washouts and it was nerve wracking and I was getting bounced around pretty badly. I parked the GL and got the M and ten foot cutter out; much smoother and more stable.

I still prefer my GL, but there are times I must default to the M.

I fully understand why some prefer a UT and some a UT as in my experience, in many if not most operations any one tractor is going to be a compromise one way or another, you just have to balance your priorities.

I totally agree with this Larry.

I can't scientifically discuss it. But it's true. It's even more prevalent for me now since buying a Ford 3910FWD. I'm not sure what it would take to tip this tractor over. It's much more stable than my M9540. My "pucker factor" kicks in long before it's nearing tip angle.

I thought my old Kubota L4400 was stable. Boy was I wrong.

 

[number9L]

I maintain 82 acres (~85% wooded) with my Kubota L3800. I've added 3 sets of wheel weights and 5" rear wheel spacers to make it feel comfortable on 20-30* slopes. Don't **even** think of R4 tires!!! I had them and the SUCK, traded for R1's (AG) tires and there's no comparison. My tractor has never failed to do anything I needed it to. I mow the lawn, cut brush, build and maintain roads and trails, ditches, drag trees, you name it.

I looked hard at the JD 5045E like vtsnowins. I'd really like one setup like that but the trans killed it for me. I do too much work where the HST is perfect for to go without it. If not for that, I'd most likely have one :/