Ballast box

   / Ballast box #32  
My manual say I need 600 lbs for my tractor/loader.

Where did you find that in the manual? I've read both the loader and tractor manual and couldn't find a number, just both of them saying to use ballast with the loader. I was hunting for a number because i was in the process of building mine. I decided to just wing it. I think i went a touch heavy though.
 
   / Ballast box #33  
Where did you find that in the manual? I've read both the loader and tractor manual and couldn't find a number, just both of them saying to use ballast with the loader. I was hunting for a number because i was in the process of building mine. I decided to just wing it. I think i went a touch heavy though.

Actually it was in the sales brochure for the CK series. It specifies 600 lbs for the KL120 (CK20 FEL which is close to CK2510 specs) and 700 lbs for the KL130 which is for the CK27/30/35. I could scan the page and post it if you want. I couldn't get it to down load from Kioti.

How heavy did you make your box. Also I think you're better off heavier than lighter.
 
   / Ballast box #34  
Well that would explain why i couldn't find it. I thought for sure i was just missing it. And I'm honestly not sure how heavy the thing is. But when i lift the 3pt i can see and feel the weight come off the front end. I'm sure I'm losing traction ability with the front but man alive is it ever more stable with a load in the bucket now. I'm going to try to get it over to the local ag scales at the elevator and get a solid number on it.

The base is made out of I beam, and the sides out of what was left of a car dolly after i made my cultipacker. Then i put 8 brake rotors in it and filled with ready mix. Four 60lb bags and one 80lb bag. (it's what i had lying around.)

It needs another coat of paint but i had stuff to do.


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   / Ballast box #35  
That is heavy duty. And the fact that it extends past the lift arms probably make it more effective. Mine is centered on the lift arms for compactness. I weighed each rock and steel plate as I added it and it comes up to 635 IIRC. With the chains and tools I figure 650. The bucket can't lift the rear wheels off the ground so I figure it's enough.

Which also makes me wonder if my hydraulic valve relief is set correctly. But I have no way to check. I assume it's set at the factory. If it's set by the assembling dealer than it needs checking. Cuz the set-up dealer sucked.
 
   / Ballast box #36  
That is heavy duty. And the fact that it extends past the lift arms probably make it more effective. Mine is centered on the lift arms for compactness. I weighed each rock and steel plate as I added it and it comes up to 635 IIRC. With the chains and tools I figure 650. The bucket can't lift the rear wheels off the ground so I figure it's enough.

Which also makes me wonder if my hydraulic valve relief is set correctly. But I have no way to check. I assume it's set at the factory. If it's set by the assembling dealer than it needs checking. Cuz the set-up dealer sucked.

These are known for not being set accurately by any OEM, I think. They seem to maximize their warranty potential instead of maximizing the performance they advertise. I built a test gauge and mine was low ~ 10%, as I recall.
 
   / Ballast box #37  
That is heavy duty. And the fact that it extends past the lift arms probably make it more effective. Mine is centered on the lift arms for compactness. I weighed each rock and steel plate as I added it and it comes up to 635 IIRC.

My original plan was to have it more centered on the lift arms and more compact but i wasn't thinking right when i made the spot for the top link connection and put it right out at the edge so i had to make the lower link spots out the front too. I'll admit though, having the slide through pin set up like i do for the lower links makes hooking up to it a breeze.

And again, had i been thinking i would've weighed it all as i put it together like you did too so i would know. I just got too wrapped up in getting to the finished product i didn't even think about doing that.
 
   / Ballast box #38  
Interesting. Many people weighing in on this site have said that if your loader goes into bypass w/out lifting the rear wheels the BB is heavy enough. And this does that. During plowing/snow moving I didn't lift the wheels. I didn't make it heavier cuz I didn't think I need to. I can easily add 300-400 lbs.

IIRC my 3 pt is rated at 1,200 lbs.

It's not quite that simple. You can be fine on a level balanced lift. Then if you lift something off center or with the tractor pointed downhill, things will change drastically. I know because I've had the experience of being unable to lift something, moved to get a different "bite" and suddenly found a back wheel off the ground. A bit of margin on the ballast weight is prudent.
 
   / Ballast box #39  
It's not quite that simple. You can be fine on a level balanced lift. Then if you lift something off center or with the tractor pointed downhill, things will change drastically. I know because I've had the experience of being unable to lift something, moved to get a different "bite" and suddenly found a back wheel off the ground. A bit of margin on the ballast weight is prudent.

Thanks. I'll do some more experimenting (carefully) and see if I can lift even one wheel. Then I can add weight. My aim was to keep it compact and with a low center of gravity. If I really need weight I can attach the BH which I think weighs in at 1,100 lbs.
 
   / Ballast box #40  
My tractor and Grapple are arriving this week. I knew I needed some serious ballast for the grapple work I'm about to do and came up with a FREE solution to weight. Waste Granite from my local Granite and Stone fabricator.The largest pieces 2 ft square X 1" are about 60# each the smaller pieces about 40#. I had a massive piece of slate (I think) that was also 2X2 but 2" thick that weighed in at 100#, a grand total of 400# plus the weight of the carryall and 100# of clamp on forks. The beauty, of coarse is that I can easily adjust the weight as needed.View attachment 428953
 

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