New NX6010 owner!

[ishiboo]

Wow, I've had my NX4510HST Cab a year now, with 75+ hrs, and the only issue I've had that you list is the occasional need to bump the HST pedals forward or reverse to change ranges. That can be an irritation, but I just nurse is for a few seconds when that happens, and I don't shift between ranges very often. Goes to show YMMV.

My QH is a 10 or 12 y/o Harbor Freight Cat 1, and doesn't cause any clearance problem with the rear fenders so long as the release levers are not left in the up position when there's no implement and the hitch is fully raised. From Eric's reports, sounds like it's different with a Cat 2 QH, as they are a bit wider. Even with a Cat 1, though, you do have to be careful to stay clear of the QH when raising and lowering from behind the tractor using the remote hydraulic lever. Otherwise you can get pinched between the corner of the QH and the fender.

Instead of the factory radio, I put in an inexpensive aftermarket with AM/FM and weatherband. Works fine for me, but I'm no audiophile, especially when on the tractor. I can see how it would be tough to do a flush mount with larger speakers.

No problems at all so far with dust infiltration into the closed cab. No problems with FEL hydraulic hoses rubbing.

Re your pt. 2, I don't have a clearance issue with the arm rest, with the seat fully back, where I prefer it. Not sure what you mean by cheap plastic; you may have higher standards than I for tractor cab interiors. Compared to the 2014 Kubota L4760 (Grand L), which I was ready to buy until I looked at the NX4510, I didn't see much difference. My wife helped me a bit with the shopping, and I was quite surprised when she got into the Kioti and said she thought the interior was actually nicer. :confused3:

Your point 4, when you move into a pile with anti-stall activated, are you stalling out even in low and medium range? FWIW, even though I run in Linked Pedal mode most of the time, I still throttle up manually to full PTO speed when doing loader work.

I'll probably grab the Speeco Cat 1 hitch then. I can't imagine really needing any Cat 2 attachments with this size tractor. Glad to know they fit

I might be wrong on the dust infiltration. I thought it was when I was doing a bunch of box blading and raising dust, but I noticed some by the back windows I had open just for driving... may have got it in there. I do notice there is a ton more engine noise when the brake pedals are pressed down, but that couldn't account for dust when driving as I only use the brakes for parking as I'm sure most of us do.

You're probably right on the cab, I haven't been in enough cabs or recently to really know.

Yes, the anti-stall happens in medium... not sure about low as I had to move material a decent distance and it would have taken forever. I do throttle up for loader work, probably only about 2000 though. If stalling was a big issue I would crank it all the way up, it was more a comment about the "no stall" functionality than a big concern Linked pedal is awesome and every hydro should have it.

 

[ishiboo]

Believe it or not, when I removed my entire interior to sound dampen, there weren't too many holes on the underside. The dust is most likely coming from the pair of side intake vents on the underside of the cab cap that feeds the HVAC. However, each vent has a filter. The filters are inspected by removing the two thumb screws and dropping the vent cover from the outside.

I think I was wrong, but I'll take a look at the vents.

The rear fenders need to be redesigned for space. Other manufacturers do not mount their fenders so far rearward. Both of my fenders are broken from hitting them with my CAT 2 Quick Hitch. My right rear fender was eviscerated by a red oak, but that oak did me a favor by turning the half-missing rear fender extension into a feature since it allows better access to installing PTO shafts since the fender went AWOL. In time I plan to remove both rear fender extensions and install a length of conveyor belt as fender extensions.

Yes. I know that someone mentioned the fact they were plastic, but I think that's a great benefit to the Kiotis... fenders receive damage from rocks from tires and the occasional "oops" and the plastic should do a lot better with no rust and cheaper replacement than steel.

I also love the switch openings on the fender for some reason... trying to figure out what to do with them

The response of the HST could be improved by the factory and a huge upgrade would be the addition of synchronized range gearing and better shift gates. Kubota's two-speed electronic HST does seem to be superior. Even still, I'm getting my work done but every time the transmission pops out of M under load because of poor gating makes me wonder how many times the transmission teeth can survive before shelling.

Yeah, synchronized ranges would be awesome. I haven't had a gate issue yet... fingers crossed. The HST is responsive enough, I was concerned as when I drove the NX5510 cab, there was a large lag... but it clears up as soon as it's warm.

The handles on the throttle, and three rear remotes all have set screws to retain them. However, the three point and transmission range handles, as well as the draft control handle and the little, overhead vent handle all lack set screws and I'm routinely pulling off the three point handle as I use it. Annoying.

Anyway, I shared with my dealer to pass onto Kioti that the factory should include a hydraulic hose loom to keep the hoses from rubbing on sharp edges. Check the leading corner of the cab on the right side for rubbing problems as well. Here is the loom I made to solve the hoses getting nailed by the HST pedal linkage.

Yeah, that's what I meant... sorry. It's the same situation on the non-cab models with the foot rest there.

Did you install the remotes yourself? I'm wondering if I should do it. The $500 in labor would pay for the third remote and some more cool stuff. I ordered two (since they refuse to admit you can have 3, but of course we know otherwise). They acted like it was a hugely difficult job requiring tire removal, but looking at where it goes and the fact it's all cable-operated, I can't help but think it looks really easy.

Overall, I love the tractor... just some small things they could fix.

 

[countrybumpkin]

500 dollars just to install the rear service remotes??? That's just crazy, if that's right. It took me about a hour to install the two remaining remotes on my 5510, tractor had one on it already when I looked at it on dealers lot. Did you check and see if they can order the third remote part number? I posted it back in another thread.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I think I was wrong, but I'll take a look at the vents.



Yes. I know that someone mentioned the fact they were plastic, but I think that's a great benefit to the Kiotis... fenders receive damage from rocks from tires and the occasional "oops" and the plastic should do a lot better with no rust and cheaper replacement than steel.

I also love the switch openings on the fender for some reason... trying to figure out what to do with them



Yeah, synchronized ranges would be awesome. I haven't had a gate issue yet... fingers crossed. The HST is responsive enough, I was concerned as when I drove the NX5510 cab, there was a large lag... but it clears up as soon as it's warm.



Yeah, that's what I meant... sorry. It's the same situation on the non-cab models with the foot rest there.

Did you install the remotes yourself? I'm wondering if I should do it. The $500 in labor would pay for the third remote and some more cool stuff. I ordered two (since they refuse to admit you can have 3, but of course we know otherwise). They acted like it was a hugely difficult job requiring tire removal, but looking at where it goes and the fact it's all cable-operated, I can't help but think it looks really easy.

Overall, I love the tractor... just some small things they could fix.

When I bought my tractor, Kioti was telling dealers that only two remotes fit. I looked at it and said, install three remotes, 2 number 2 and one number 1. Zero cost on labor. I would have done the work myself had I known that waiting on the dealer would delay my being able to take delivery 6 to 8 weeks after I paid for the tractor in full.

To install, pop out the driver's seat and lift it out the door (or get help from a friend), remove the B and C pillar covers leaving the B pillar hanging from the wires, and pop off the bulkhead on the right side. Seems to me in the My NX6010 thread, I have detailed directions.

The photos eventually time out in that thread because I link to my Facebook account and FB doesn't like the share forever. Here is a refresh of photos. I have more wiring going on from stuff I've added as well as sound damping material.

So your interior will look like this

And out in back you can see how the cables are all routed. Very easy if you're handy and many people at this point have done it themselves. Country has the length and thread pitch of the bolts you need if you add all three valves (and you should add all three).

 

[countrybumpkin]

If you havn't ordered the rear remotes yet, see if your dealer can get the third postion remote if you decide to order all three. it would save you from having to get the longer bolts from fastenal or someplace else, and also give you the green handle and dust caps to color code the remotes.

Anyway here are the part numbers for the third position remote.

T5538-A04000101 Spring Return to center

T5538-A04000111 Detent

 

[ishiboo]

If you havn't ordered the rear remotes yet, see if your dealer can get the third postion remote if you decide to order all three. it would save you from having to get the longer bolts from fastenal or someplace else, and also give you the green handle and dust caps to color code the remotes.

Anyway here are the part numbers for the third position remote.

T5538-A04000101 Spring Return to center

T5538-A04000111 Detent

Thanks all. I figured it was easy, but I thought due to the fact that the service manual says to remove the rear tire (even though we know that's completely unnecessary) routing would be a major pain... that looks straightforward as possible.

Hopefully the dealer will refund my money. I would have to tow the tractor there so there would be even more time/money lost.

I went with one detent and one regular valve, would you guys recommend detent or not for the third? The detent valves still spring return if you don't go all the way to detent, or it's detent only?

Ownership update:

Did some tilling today and got to experience the PTO. First thoughts are the "auto PTO" is awesome, PTO cruise and hydrostatic cruise are great as well. How do you increase/decrease hydrostatic cruise speed though? Pushing the button up once activated doesn't do it.

Also, I was not sure about whether to get a cab or not... in the end, I went with one. I can say that beyond the obvious stuff (heat in winter, AC in summer) that one of the other benefits is almost completely eliminating implement noise. You can barely tell you're running a tiller, and the dust doesn't affect you. Bugs of course do not bother you either. In the end, I thought I'd never need/want a cab except for snow, but that couldn't be further from the truth.

One more thought... I almost bought a Woods disc, when I already own the tiller and only had 3-4 acres to till this year. I'm glad I tried the tiller (6' KK gear). It covers an acre faster than you'd think, combines the stalks/weeds/etc. very well, and leaves a pretty good finished product.

 

[ishiboo]

As weak as the hydrostatic high range is, the low range is the opposite... there's a TON of power there and more traction than I expected.

 

[paulfun9]

I don't know about the NX series but on the DK I activate the cruise at the speed I am going and if I come to an area that I want to go faster in I simply push the pedal a little further down. The pedal does resist but will move if you push it with a little strength.

 

[ishiboo]

As weak as the hydrostatic high range is, the low range is the opposite... there's a TON of power there and more traction than I expected.

Pulling my loaded dump trailer with some topsoil, I realize that it has far less pulling power than my L3650 even in low range. The HST was really struggling in some soft soil to get it moving and keep it that way.

Not sure if this is a Kioti issue alone, or if it's to be expected going from a GST to a HST.

 

[ishiboo]

If you havn't ordered the rear remotes yet, see if your dealer can get the third postion remote if you decide to order all three. it would save you from having to get the longer bolts from fastenal or someplace else, and also give you the green handle and dust caps to color code the remotes.

Anyway here are the part numbers for the third position remote.

T5538-A04000101 Spring Return to center

T5538-A04000111 Detent

I'm doing this now... the second remote I have is a detent. Do the detents work the same as a string return if you don't push them all the way I assume? So I should probably get the detent valve for the 3rd as well?