Repainting over original factory finish ...

[rswyan]

As part of my relocating my rear remotes and sprucing up the B2910 generally, I plan to repaint the ROPS ... which has gotten banged up over the last ten years or so.

There are quite a few (little) spots where the original paint is completely gone and are now rusted ... and the original paint that does still exist is faded and/or chalky.

Plan is to remove the rust with a wire wheel in a grinder, then treat the exposed bare metal with phosphoric acid to kill any residual rust, then prime. There are some parts that might get a dip in a vinegar part due to accessibility (or lack thereof) The existing old paint I was going to hit with some Klean-Strip deglosser that I have.

Here's the big question:

Ok to prime the entire thing, including the deglossed original paint ?

The new paint will be nothing fancy - just Kubota ROPS gray out of a rattle can ...

 

[PILOON]

I would prime.
Prime sticks to metal. Paint sticks to prime.
Most paints stick poorly to bare metal.

Exceptions would be acid etching products and some very pricy specialty industrial products.

 

[rswyan]

I would prime.
Prime sticks to metal. Paint sticks to prime.
Most paints stick poorly to bare metal.

Exceptions would be acid etching products and some very pricy specialty industrial products.

PILOON,

Thanks for your input.

I intended to at least prime any bare metal.

My uncertainty was really about whether to prime over the deglossed old paint.

It just seemed to me that if I hit the whole thing with primer, I might end up getting a better overall finish.

 

[flyerdan]

I'd read the instructions on the de-glosser and see if they recommend it as a surface prep for painting. I'd still probably go over it with some 220 to rough it up for the new paint, as that's how I always used to do it. A good shot of primer on the bare metal and a fog coat over the rest should make a good base for the top coats.

 

[jwayne14]

you need to sand it all to have any kind of lasting results. you just don't need to sand the good (intact) paint with the rougher paper, like you do with the rusty areas. but you still need to prep these areas for new paint. which is not, imo, just a deglossing with a solution.
if you don't, dont tell anyone, at the very least.

hit the paint with 220 like noted above. then hit it with 400. clean it. and paint it.
unless you get to bare metal, you really dont have to prime it.

 

[rswyan]

fd,

I'd read the instructions on the de-glosser and see if they recommend it as a surface prep for painting.

Yes, they do ... in fact, they say to just leave it on and let it dry before applying paint.

They also say that it works on enamel ... as well as varnish, latex, and stain. According to their FAQ, it appears I'm a bit outside of the shelf life tho' ... product is probably 10 years old. Probably have to try it on something and see what it does. Instructions:

Klean Strip | Easy Liquid Sander Deglosser

I'd still probably go over it with some 220 to rough it up for the new paint, as that's how I always used to do it.

That I can do

A good shot of primer on the bare metal and a fog coat over the rest should make a good base for the top coats.

Sounds like a plan ... :thumbsup:

I used the Kubota ROPS Gray enamel in a rattle can to paint the Prince SV valve that is my rear remotes and it's held up pretty well. I think the key on that was getting it thoroughly degreased and the oil off of it ...

Thanks for your input.

 

[rswyan]

you need to sand it all to have any kind of lasting results. you just don't need to sand the good (intact) paint with the rougher paper, like you do with the rusty areas. but you still need to prep these areas for new paint. which is not, imo, just a deglossing with a solution.

Okay.

if you don't, dont tell anyone, at the very least.

LOL ...

hit the paint with 220 like noted above. then hit it with 400. clean it. and paint it.

Yeah ... I dunno if a second pass with 400 is gonna happen ...

I'm not looking for a show car finish ... just a decent appearance and some protection for the metal.

unless you get to bare metal, you really dont have to prime it.

But given the amount of nicks, scratches, and the like - and their locations - it will probably be easiest to do like flyerdan said: hit the spots of bare metal and fog the rest of it.