Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I would go with a tractor over that ventrac. If you are going with a sub compact I would go as large as you can, personally I would go with a compact instead as a heavier machine will probably make life easier with some of these tasks. The slopes you are describing are not super steep, as long as care is taken to not drive sideways on a hill with a load held high I wouldn't worry about it, I operate equipment for a living and we commonly have to get on hillsides steeper than this with a rubber tire backhoe which is very top heavy, they can handle a surprising amount of slope but care must be taken because a wrong move can make a huge difference

The only problem with "larger" is they seem to have a higher center of gravity (?) until you get to the huge monsters like the CAT excavator that did the pond work, which could literally go anywhere. I may have understated the grades a bit--not sure I understand how that percent grade thing is calculated.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

My opinion, the more weight you have under you the better. 200# man setting atop a 2000# machine is at more risk of rollover than a 200# machine setting atop a 6000# machine. You want width for stability, weight for traction, and a low center of gravity.

I also recommend HST for extreme hills too. They're generally a good bit heavier than their gear counterparts and that weight is built low in the machine so helps the center of gravity. HSTs also allow for slower/smoother movements and don't jerk around or freewheel when power is suddenly cut from the drivetrain. Most people's nerves prevent them from operating a clutch as smoothly when they're on three wheels teetering at the top of a long steep grade, and even the best of tractor brakes leave something to be desired on extreme hills...

When filling the tires, don't go over 60-65% full, it keeps the weight in the bottom part of the tire, keeping the center of gravity lower. Filling above the axle line doesn't lower the center of gravity nearly as much, it only adds weight. Filling above the top of the rim will lower the center of gravity.

Lots of folk will try to sell you on a loader, which is a nice tool to have, but they suck on extreme hills. Get a set of front suitcase weights so you can remove the loader, they keep all the weight at the centerline of the tractor which increases sideways stability. You have to keep a loader bucket low to the ground or it affects stability on mostly flat ground. On a hill this is amplified. The large upright masts the loaders mount to are holding the weight of the loader above the front wheels and it doesn't have to be up very far before it acts as a lever trying to pry the tractor over onto it's side... Keeping it low on extreme terrain is a constant exercise. It must be raised to start up a grade so it doesn't dig in, it must be lowered as you climb and crest a grade to keep the front tires well planted. On uneven side slopes it's not so bad, but on my land as the slopes change direction the corners of the bucket can drag if keeping it too low. Suitcase weights eliminate all of that...

Right now my dog can't make it up our hill due to the mud or I'd take some pics for ya... All I can tell ya for now is we have hills and we use tractors!

For the most extreme of hills I'd advise constructing a roll cage for the tractor. It is quite common here to see the entire tractor caged.

Excellent tips, thank you. Beautiful land too. Looks a little familiar..... I do get it about not running around with a loaded FEL lifted high; sounds like it takes a little practice to manage generally. Suitcase weights sound like a good idea. Nice to hear about folks actually using tractors in the mountains; I was beginning to wonder.

 

[blucoondawg]

Here's a chart showing grades in red and their corresponding angles. I'm not talking a really big tractor, my friend has a 30 HP new Holland which isn't very big and he's got the rear tires quite wide on it. It would be very stable. Loading the tires makes it even better. The bigger tractors are likely more stable than the scut due to the larger foot print.
I'm sure there's plenty of people using tractors in your conditions, I would recommend sizing the tractor to the work you have and the implements you'd like to use rather than worrying about the grade, you have to operate a tractor safely on a grade no matter it's size, there isn't one that will do what an excavator will, just use basic common sense

 

[vtsnowedin]

-not sure I understand how that percent grade thing is calculated.

If a slope rises 10 feet for each 100 feet horizontal it is a ten percent grade. You can easily mow a grade that rises 25 feet in a hundred or a 25% grade. It takes a very well set up tractor to mow the side slopes of a highway embankment which is a 50% grade. Most prudent people stay off anything that is 33% or more especially if it is uneven and might have an unseen chuck hole that would suddenly put you over the tipping point.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Sounds like you have a great project in front of you. I'd be using some of those rocks you need to move to armor the bottom of your road side ditches so they stop washing out. First priority though is to get some rye growing on all the disturbed soil to stop erosion until you can get to it. You should do that before you go tractor shopping, don't worry about prepping the soil just sow some seed by hand or with one of those shoulder bag spinners. A couple of spring rains and it will come up.

Oh we did the annual rye grass. It works great. Even those almost-vertical cut banks, you can just throw the seed against them after a rain when the soil is sticky and a few days later, voila, it's growing. I love that stuff. The side ditches actually don't erode too bad as our soil is that hard clay that was rock not too long ago; almost takes a pick axe to get into it. Once you carve a ditch into it, it stays pretty good. But yeah, the rocks do come in handy for culverts, dams, waterfalls, and we rammed them into one soft place in the road and covered them with dirt. Look nice placed randomly around the edges of the ponds too. Moving them is a chore though.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

View attachment 422377



Here's a chart showing grades in red and their corresponding angles. I'm not talking a really big tractor, my friend has a 30 HP new Holland which isn't very big and he's got the rear tires quite wide on it. It would be very stable. Loading the tires makes it even better. The bigger tractors are likely more stable than the scut due to the larger foot print.
I'm sure there's plenty of people using tractors in your conditions, I would recommend sizing the tractor to the work you have and the implements you'd like to use rather than worrying about the grade, you have to operate a tractor safely on a grade no matter it's size, there isn't one that will do what an excavator will, just use basic common sense

Thank you for the chart. I'm saving it.

Er, looks like I definitely understated the grades..... seems like I've been driving the Huskvee on a 40-50% grade. No wonder it keeps getting stuck.

 

[vtsnowedin]

The only problem with "larger" is they seem to have a higher center of gravity (?) until you get to the huge monsters like the CAT excavator that did the pond work, which could literally go anywhere. I may have understated the grades a bit--not sure I understand how that percent grade thing is calculated.

That CAT excavator probably has a center of gravity that is eight feet above the ground. It is the ratio of the height of the COG to the horizontal distance out to the outer edge of the tire (or track) that counts.
You didn't say what model Husqvarna lawn tractor but if you pick a typical one you can find dimensions on like the YTH2348LS you will find it weighs 458 lbs and is 42 inches high and 50 inches wide. That 50 inches is the mower deck so the tires out to out would be less, maybe 46 inches. It has 20x8-8 rear tires so the rear axle is 18 inches off the ground and the COG with you sitting on it is about 24 inches off the ground.
So your ratio would be 23 inches of width divided by 24 of height would be 0.96.
My tractor as set up is 94 inches wide so half of that is 47 inches and it measures 32 inches from the ground to the top of the center casting between the operators feet which is above where the COG is with the fluid in the tires but using that. 47 / 32 =1.47 so mine is more stable then yours. :silly:
Now if I take the spacers off and set the tires in to the narrowest workable setting the half width is just 35 inches and I'd get 35/32=1.09 which is a lot closer to your tractor so the set up is what makes the difference. Notice the weight of the tractors doesn't factor into this ratio except for determining exactly where the COG of the tractor is. If your adding weight you want to add it somewhere low to lower the COG not pile it on top and increase the COG.

 

[square1]

If you're getting ruts from tracked machines and skid steers, you're likely going to get ruts from SCUTS & CUTs too. Difference is they'll be your ruts that you're fixing
No matter what the machine you end up with, take steep (actually a good practice to take all) inclines at 90 degrees, not on an angle.

 

[daugen]

One of our members here with a Ventrac has lots of excellent posts and pics on it including usage.
Several years ago in PA I mowed a friend's fields that included one hill that went up to a wood line, so you could not go up and over. I took my tractor up as far as I could go, or wanted to go... and finished the rest with my Gravely garden tractor with a 60" deck.
The Gravely's odd rear engine(like a VW) layout has the engine down super low, and boy is that garden tractor stable with the right tires. Just need to make sure your engine has pressure oil lube as all modern engines do or working sideways on hills can create real problems.

seat belt and ROPS
seat belt and ROPS...

If you are dealing with large trees, bigger is surely better, but if you have to navigate in woods,
consider turning radius, size, etc. with 4wd, loaded tires and suitcase weights you should be able to go most places
other than those requiring a specialty machine. Using the wrong machine on a slope will scare you, or kill you.
Like they said at the end of Hill Street Blues, be careful out there...

one thing that you will learn as a new member is that safety is taken very seriously on this site. Good thing...

btw, WELCOME to TBN. You'll have fun here. Hope you post lots of pics of your place.

 

[k0ua]

I have managed to operate a tractor here on my property in Branson, Mo. for several years now. So far so good. We have no flat land here unless you make it by having fill hauled in. Some of my slopes are dangerous to traverse by foot, and you run a risk of falling. When I first moved here, I sold my tractor prior to moving as I thought I could not safely operate a tractor here.

I have owned 3 now at this property, the one I currently have is larger and heavier than the previous two. My Kioti is more than 6000 lb with its ballast on the back and the loader mounted and with the loaded rear tires. I am not saying there is not some danger, because there is. Especially if you do something stupid like transporting a load with the loader too high, or even attempting to go down a hill and not having the driveline in 4WD. I have made the 2WD mistake several times and have the rear tires loose traction with the ground and slip causing a "runaway".

But if you take care, think through each situation and have a tractor set up for steep grades you will do fine. I have seen state highway department mowing tractors mow slopes that scare the heck out of me. But of course those tractors are set up for that kind of work. Good luck with your tractor selection.