How do I secure these ripper teeth to my box blade?

[adt2]

Okay, I'm stumped. My guess is, they guy I bought the tractor and implements from forgot to include some parts. I'm stumped as to how to secure these teeth to the box blade short of rigging up some kind of Rube Goldberg setup.

Here's one of the teeth. Note that the one I have in-place at the bottom is NOT secure at all. I was just fooling around.


Here's a closeup of my fooling around.


Here's where I'm headed with my Rube Goldberg idea. Take a long piece of steel rod and clamp it in place as shown here. Far from ideal, but might work in a pinch.


You know, as I'm looking at the middle picture, it occurs to me that the notches are likely supposed to fit on the top/bottom of the welded frame, which would allow the teeth to move back far enough to drop that lynch pin down the front and wedge it into place. Did I just answer my own question?

 

[bcp]

Flat or round L-shaped pin:



Shank Lock Keeper, 10405 | Agri Supply

Bruce

 

[Bird]

Yep, Bruce has it right. The pin fits behind the notch in the ripper.

 

[adt2]

Ah...so THAT'S what all those "extra" pins in the tractor's toolbox are for. Thanks for the heads up, guys.

 

[kenmac]

my ripers have holes drilled in them... U put the pin through them to keep them in place

 

[Bird]

my ripers have holes drilled in them... U put the pin through them to keep them in place

The first box blade I bought had that type and the Countyline brand currently sold by Tractor Supply Co. uses that type. The second one I bought had the notches, as shown in the photos of this thread, but it also had square pins instead of the round ones.

 

[Gary Fowler]

BCP has them right, mine is the same way. I do think that the ripper design that has the round hole is much stronger. Mine are notched and I have broken a lot of ripper teeth with the notch in them. It is a weakened section where the notch is compared to the ones with a hole in the middle

 

[clemsonfor]

Yep the guys have it right. Mine are just like yours and a hitch pin style L pin holds them in

 

[careyo63]

Mine also and what I really like is the one piece Rippers. Mine look to be just pressed on and it wasn't long Wks. I had to weld 2 of them back on.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]
You know, as I'm looking at the middle picture, it occurs to me that the notches are likely supposed to fit on the top/bottom of the welded frame, which would allow the teeth to move back far enough to drop that lynch pin down the front and wedge it into place. Did I just answer my own question?

OP, yep, you figured it out yourself. :thumbsup: My small (5') Howse box blade uses this system. The pin just drops down vertically along the leading edge of the scarifier shank, forcing the shank aft so that its notches engage the cross beam. The system works, but I find it more annoying than other designs. YMMV