Tow hitch off the 3 point linkage counter weight

[o2batsea]

Titan Attachments actually makes several models of what you need if you take the current counter wight off. You can get a great deal bidding on their stuff on Ebay

Adapters, Titan Fitness items in Titan Attachments store on eBay!

I have the 3pt goose neck/hay spear model and it works great for moving my trailer. I also bid on a quick attach receiver hitch for the loader to do the same, with a bit more finesse to back the trailer into the barn.

Also if you search Ebay for similar products there are several 3pt hitches that take suitcase weights and have the hitch you need too.

The OP lives in Oz.

 

[powerscol]

I'd think that 3510 could pull any trailered load around the farm via the 3pt that the average half-ton pickup could take down the road. As stated keep it heavy on the tongue or tie down the 3pt to keep it low.

Local place that sells and services trailers has one of these on their Kubota they use on the lot.

http://www.tractorhitch.com/images/flexpointflyer.pdf

They move some huge trailers with a rather tiny tractor.

That is very similar to the one I use, but got it from Titan - great prices on their Web and Ebay. I also picked uo the front Quick attache unit to better maneuver the trailer into its tight parking spot.

I plan to use the 3pt one to drag the trailer around the subdivision as I load it up - balanced over the axle so as not to make the tong heavy. Should work fine.

 

[Sysop]

Here is what I'm using: 5000 lb. Step Bumper Receiver

I tried to attach a picture of my ballast box with the hitch on it, but my tablet browser is not being cooperative.

Thomas

PS: This is what I mean...

View attachment 423794

You have to look really close at the bottom center of the BB.

That is the same sorta thing I used on my boxblade. Mine was an old Reese bumper mount hitch.

Between loading tongue heavy and the 680# box blade, I've never had to chain it down even with about 8000# behind me coming off the big hill... I did chain it the first few times, but it quickly proved unnecessary.

 

[KiotiJason]

Sorry to be a bit blonde but what do you mean chain it down?

 

[Sysop]

Sorry to be a bit blonde but what do you mean chain it down?

The only thing that causes the three point to go down, is gravity. The only thing holding it down is gravity. When the arms are at their lowest position and nothing is on them, you can lift them up freely with no resistance other than gravity.

To chain it down keeps it from raising up unless enough upward lift is generated to break the chain used. If you have tons of whatever behind you pushing on the tractor coming down a hill, there is a potential for a tail heavy trailer to use the tongue to lift up on the three point, raising the center of gravity, putting the trailer hitch at a really bad angle on the ball, and easily breaking something or causing injury.

The best method of chaining it down would be to connect a chain to the drawbar on the tractor, routed up and over both lift arms on the back of the tractor. Holding down the lift arms will prevent all of the three point from raising. I have seen people go from the drawbar to the top link and end up messing up the top link.

If you leave some slack in the chain, you can monitor it. If you ever see it raising and pulling the chain tight, you loaded the trailer too tail heavy and should load more on the front to increase the tongue weight.

 

[KiotiJason]

The only thing that causes the three point to go down, is gravity. The only thing holding it down is gravity. When the arms are at their lowest position and nothing is on them, you can lift them up freely with no resistance other than gravity.

To chain it down keeps it from raising up unless enough upward lift is generated to break the chain used. If you have tons of whatever behind you pushing on the tractor coming down a hill, there is a potential for a tail heavy trailer to use the tongue to lift up on the three point, raising the center of gravity, putting the trailer hitch at a really bad angle on the ball, and easily breaking something or causing injury.

The best method of chaining it down would be to connect a chain to the drawbar on the tractor, routed up and over both lift arms on the back of the tractor. Holding down the lift arms will prevent all of the three point from raising. I have seen people go from the drawbar to the top link and end up messing up the top link.

If you leave some slack in the chain, you can monitor it. If you ever see it raising and pulling the chain tight, you loaded the trailer too tail heavy and should load more on the front to increase the tongue weight.

Ah I see, thanks. So if you have consider all of that, why would they sell 3pl tow hitches when you have a draw bar anyway. I can understand if you have a hitch on a box blade or something, who he's kinda why I posted the thread.
Same topic but another question. I've got a new trailer and on the trailer coupling it has a bolt with a thread that seems to be adjustment for the ball?. If it's done up the coupling/ trailer won't hitch to the ball. If it's too loose the nut seems to just about work its way off the thread. I've been loosening it to get it on the ball and then doing it up with a bit of slack but the nut always works loose. My other trailer didn't have this setup so I don't know what the go is.. I thought about drilling a hole at the top of the thread and put a split pin in it so I can't loose the nut and then maybe some locktite to keep it there. Any advice on the adjustment etc would be appreciated as I'm worried if it's not right the trailer will come off. It's a 2" tow ball hitch. Thanks

 

[Sysop]

Some pictures would be great, can't really visualize what you're talking about.

If there is an adjustment on the ball socket, I'd get it adjusted so it goes on and off fine with the latch raised, and won't come off with it latched, then double-nut it to hold it rather than a pin. Being on a trailer I would probably even use one of the locknuts with the nylon insert as the doubled nut. Once adjusted and a lock nut tightened against the other nut, it will not move...

 

[PhysAssist]

That is the same sorta thing I used on my boxblade. Mine was an old Reese bumper mount hitch.

Between loading tongue heavy and the 680# box blade, I've never had to chain it down even with about 8000# behind me coming off the big hill... I did chain it the first few times, but it quickly proved unnecessary.

Pretty much exactly the same thing.

K.J.,

Do you mean under the latch that you flip down to lock the trailer coupling?

If that's what you're talking about, then Sysop is absolutley right about adjusting it so it works in bother direction and then using a locknut to hold your setting...

If not, then he is right that you ought to post some pictures, in order to get a meaningful answer.
Thomas