LPGS - I got one!

[aeblank]

Got to spend some more time with it tonight. The blades weren't very far down, but I adjusted them flush anyway. I think a big part of my problem was QH slop. I adjusted it level, when suspended. Well that isn't the same as level when being dragged. So anyway, I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the top link length in addition to the blade adjustment. It still loaded up full some, but it also emptied. Much of the time it was only partially loaded. So, I think i'm there. It did seem that it unloaded where it should, and was clipping the tops of my hoopties.

At this point, after maybe 1/2 a dozen passes, I think I have everything churned up enough that it needs to sit for a while, get rained on, something......

Thanks for the setup advice. It did help. Also noteworthy is that SAND does not require much blade depth.

Off to do a rain dance.

 

[crazyal]

Just curious, why not just use the position control to adjust for height?

The whole point of a grading scraper is to have long skids that avoid falling into the low spots. You want it almost totally detached from the tractor so as the tires go in and out of dips and pot holes it doesn't affect the scrapper. Since you can't pull it from the bottom of the scrapper (mine is about 6" above the bottom of the blades) the torque on the scrapper will want to lift up on the rear. To stop this from happening you need to set your top link to counter the torque. You can use position control but you'll need to keep one hand on the lever and always be adjusting it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The whole point of a grading scraper is to have long skids that avoid falling into the low spots. You want it almost totally detached from the tractor so as the tires go in and out of dips and pot holes it doesn't affect the scrapper. Since you can't pull it from the bottom of the scrapper (mine is about 6" above the bottom of the blades) the torque on the scrapper will want to lift up on the rear. To stop this from happening you need to set your top link to counter the torque. You can use position control but you'll need to keep one hand on the lever and always be adjusting it.

I understand how things work, I maintain well over a mile of road, have most all of the different implements that get used to maintain a road. After the road has been graded and all you are doing is maintaining it, setting the implement down on the road and holding it with the position control at that level really cuts down on all the material that is gathered up. As in there is usually no reason to be making major cuts and there should not be any major repairs that require large amounts of material to be cut or filled.

Just my experience I guess, others will vary.

 

[RDrancher]

I understand how things work, I maintain well over a mile of road, have most all of the different implements that get used to maintain a road. After the road has been graded and all you are doing is maintaining it, setting the implement down on the road and holding it with the position control at that level really cuts down on all the material that is gathered up. As in there is usually no reason to be making major cuts and there should not be any major repairs that require large amounts of material to be cut or filled.

Just my experience I guess, others will vary.

Agreed. I don't understand the "set it and forget it" mentality. Might as well hook it to the back of a pickup and drag it around. In a grading / spreading scenario, just like a BB, the LPGS is a finesse tool...the skids and length just cut down on the amount of operator input that's required to achieve similar results.

 

[jenkinsph]

Agreed. I don't understand the "set it and forget it" mentality. Might as well hook it to the back of a pickup and drag it around. In a grading / spreading scenario, just like a BB, the LPGS is a finesse tool...the skids and length just cut down on the amount of operator input that's required to achieve similar results.

I agree ^^^^^


Further, the longer skids with the blades set farther back from the leading edge work well in the long stretches of a driveway or field but reduce your ability to work the blade for cutting off a bump or mound. I can see the need for both long 5 ft plus and the common shorter skids of 3 to 4 ft. Nothing I know of replaces seat time and operator input makes all the difference.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree ^^^^^


Further, the longer skids with the blades set farther back from the leading edge work well in the long stretches of a driveway or field but reduce your ability to work the blade for cutting off a bump or mound. I can see the need for both long 5 ft plus and the common shorter skids of 3 to 4 ft. Nothing I know of replaces seat time and operator input makes all the difference.

I don't know if anyone has ever come up with an optimum cutting edge spread. :confused3: On my bigger LPGS, (7' runners) the cutting edges are 22" apart, there is room to move the back one back, I want to put it so there is a 30" spread between edges and see what and if it actually makes a difference. My thinking is that it will, I just need to find the time to do it along with everything else. :sigh:

 

[crazyal]

I wouldn't sat set it and forget it but more of a different technique. I adjust the blade height, start off flush or a hair low and then just keep making passes slowly pulling the gravel uphill. Usually I don't need to touch the 3pt lever. Only if I cut too deep and start to build up too much material on the blades and the wheels start to spin in the loosened gravel will I lift the GS up. Once I have worked the drive to about where I want it I raise the blades to slightly above flush and give it a finish pass. I think of it like plowing a field, once you set the turning plow you shouldn't need to do much as long as your field is smooth.

I no way imply that my way is best or the only way, it's just what works best on the mile long hilly gravel road I maintain for me. For anyone who just got a GS my suggestion is to try all the different ways listed and find what works best for them. For me a GS without rippers would be pointless yet clearly for others they aren't needed. I like to break the gravel up on a drive before working it and I use them to remove roots and branches slightly below the surface.

 

[tem00]

This may be late to the post, but i also recently acquired one. It痴 difficult to get results on Florida痴 sandy roads. It seems to either be loading up like a BB or barely scraping. I've tried about every adjustment, speed, and technique i can think of. The skids either dig too deep, or you are just skimming the surface despite being on the draft like a hawk.

Note: mine is a fixed blade design from A&B, but i doubt it matters. If anyone has any new tips for use, they would be appreciated

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This may be late to the post, but i also recently acquired one. It痴 difficult to get results on Florida痴 sandy roads. It seems to either be loading up like a BB or barely scraping. I've tried about every adjustment, speed, and technique i can think of. The skids either dig too deep, or you are just skimming the surface despite being on the draft like a hawk.

Note: mine is a fixed blade design from A&B, but i doubt it matters. If anyone has any new tips for use, they would be appreciated

Set the LPGS so that both cutting edges are cutting, either an equal amount or just a bit higher in the front. You can see in the picture that mine is about 1/2" higher in the front. My cutting edges stick down 1" from the runners.

Now let the implement down until it is on the ground. DO NOT push the position control lever any further forward than to just let the implement down. You want the hitch to carry a load, not just go down as low as the implement wants to go on it's own.

Try this, it typically works very well for people that do not have or do not use draft control. :thumbsup:

 

[aeblank]

I use the top link (manual one....) to adjust the level of cut. I have similar problems/sand. Longer top link, less cut, shorter is more cut.