Firewood - Wood Splitter - Not Tractor Attached - Whats best?

[CalG]

"Cycle" as applies to a wood splitter is Out and back. With the hydro valve configured for auto retract. The return stroke is done while the next piece is being positioned.
Plus, as the retract stroke on a hydro unit requires a fraction of the fluid volume, the retract time is always less than the extension.

Bottom line? I can't keep up with the hydro unit for more than about ten minutes, less on a hot day. The "lickity splitters" are for the boys! ;-)

Consider too, loading rounds with the bucket loader sure cut's in on the "Splits per minute" count ;-)

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Ok,

A couple questions/points from my perspective...

1 - What's a table? I am pretty fit and I do not mind the "work" involved in most of this, but the engineer in me cannot "see" how the table helps. One that splits laying down or standing up makes sense to me, but I'm a n00b still in many ways... I'm sure a conveyor belt fed splitter with an auto-stacker would be PERFECT but seem to me that path leads to robots, Skynet, and "Terminator" movies... (LOL!)

Keep in mind that previously I've been splitting with a maul, and only occasionally burn. In fact, I stacked rounds, and only split them before I burned them, after "seasoning" in a stack outside as long as from Fall 2010, to as recent as last spring.

2 - MOST of what I will wanting to split is the tops from very large hardwoods, so I suspect likely twisted/crotch type.

3 - I'm still paying off lawyers etc from my divorce last month so money is not an "issue" but not unlimited either. I seriously doubt I'm buying a $3,500 splitter. I'm thinking under $1,000 honestly...

Be well,
David

 

[Garandman]

It's the black thing. Even on a small piece where you might only have three splits, the first split cuts it in half, and the two pieces fall off either side. So you wind up walking around to fetch it, regardless of religious affiliation (KE or Hyd).

The table keeps the pieces there, you shove off what you don't want and keep the piece to be split again. They seem to run $80-150 as an option.

Keep in mind that some hydraulic spiltters can be oriented vertically so you don't have to lift the piece up.

 

[Teachu2]

Ok,

A couple questions/points from my perspective...

1 - What's a table? I am pretty fit and I do not mind the "work" involved in most of this, but the engineer in me cannot "see" how the table helps. One that splits laying down or standing up makes sense to me, but I'm a n00b still in many ways... I'm sure a conveyor belt fed splitter with an auto-stacker would be PERFECT but seem to me that path leads to robots, Skynet, and "Terminator" movies... (LOL!)

Keep in mind that previously I've been splitting with a maul, and only occasionally burn. In fact, I stacked rounds, and only split them before I burned them, after "seasoning" in a stack outside as long as from Fall 2010, to as recent as last spring.

2 - MOST of what I will wanting to split is the tops from very large hardwoods, so I suspect likely twisted/crotch type.

3 - I'm still paying off lawyers etc from my divorce last month so money is not an "issue" but not unlimited either. I seriously doubt I'm buying a $3,500 splitter. I'm thinking under $1,000 honestly...

Be well,
David

TSC sells a 22 ton at just under a grand if you want new - powered by Kohler. Used are harder to find, but cheaper. You might consider posting a "wanted" ad on Craigslist. The $1400 Troy-Bilt 27 ton is a good machine, powered by Honda, and Lowes often has cheap credit terms, if you wish to string it out for 6-12 months. If my $500 Craigslist special had not happened, that was my Plan B.

 

[caver]

I've seen several 22-ish ton splitters at a couple area farm stores on sale for maybe 6-700 in the past few weeks. I split mostly Oak with a 22 ton Swisher. I do agree with others that a log lift would have been better. If money was no object.......I would just pay someone to bring me firewood.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

TSC sells a 22 ton at just under a grand if you want new - powered by Kohler. Used are harder to find, but cheaper. You might consider posting a "wanted" ad on Craigslist. The $1400 Troy-Bilt 27 ton is a good machine, powered by Honda, and Lowes often has cheap credit terms, if you wish to string it out for 6-12 months. If my $500 Craigslist special had not happened, that was my Plan B.

I have a Lowes card and 18 month 0%.... Hmmm

That sounds really attractive.

David

 

[Teachu2]

I have a Lowes card and 18 month 0%.... Hmmm

That sounds really attractive.

David

Sometimes a plan just falls into place!

Shop Troy-Bilt 27-Ton Gas Log Splitter at Lowes.com

 

[Piston]

.....not just ONE...

Is that even possible?


It almost seems like some people are trying to say that one single type of splitter is the "best".

It may be the best for one person, but not another. I personally don't want a SuperSplit style splitter, but I know they are super fast (a LOT faster than hydraulic in some situations).

I would choose the Split-Fire 3465, 4 way splitter, bi-directional, with extended length to 30" and a hydraulic log lift. My reasoning is because I tend to split large, heavy pieces of wood, and would not want to lift the wood up off the ground onto that table. I could use the FEL which works great for once in a while, but when your splitting a lot of wood its not the most efficient log lift.
I also like to split my wood pretty small, at about 16"-18" length, and since I re-split a lot, I don't want the wood being pushed off the end, I want it to stay right there where it is.
The other reason is because I think about having my kids help me split wood someday, or even other people who aren't familiar with splitters, and I feel that it's easier to lose a finger on the quicker models like the Supersplit.

With the ability to make 8 splits in a matter of 9 seconds or so, it would give the Supersplit a run for its money. Still, if you have the right size wood, I don't think there is a faster splitter out there assuming you can keep the thing fed.

If I wanted the splits to be pushed off the end of the splitter, was using relatively "normal" size rounds to split, and wasn't concerned about other, inexperienced people, then I don't think you could beat the SS.

For my situation, the Split-Fire would be "best". However, I don't think it's the "best" splitter.

 

[gladehound]

If I did it all over again. I wouldn't get a log splitter. I had an average chainsaw (Stihl MS290), then got a log splitter (TSC 22 ton), then got a really good saw (Dolmar 7900). If it doesn't split easily with a maul, the Dolmar will rip it as fast as my splitter and is much more convenient for the really big stuff where I can bring the saw to the giant round rather than bringing a giant round to a splitter. The point is, I think a great saw or saws is a better spend than a cheap splitter and both can be had for about the same coin.

 

[David P]

This video most closely resembles how I split wood. I cut to 16" and split it into very small pieces. I slide the pieces that have been split and are ready to stack to the right side of the splitter and the kids pull them off and stack them onto pallets. Large rounds are rolled into the FEL and pulled right up to the table so they may be rolled onto the table. I stack them in the FEL 2 rounds high so by the time I get it split, I'm ready for a short break which I use to re-load the FEL.

I really struggled with my decision between the SS and the Split-Fire. In the end, the SS works best for my application but I don't think it's perfect for me, either. It sure would be nice to have a second splitter that would allow me to split the huge stuff vertically once in a while.

But in the end the SS and the accompanying exercise program are cheaper and more convenient than a less-expensive splitter and a gym membership.

When purchasing equipment (and anything, I suppose), everything is a trade-off. Compare a light weight John Deere Gator 6x4 outfitted with the flotation tires with something like a Kubota RTV (or similar): One is nice and light weight, goes through the mud and slop without making ruts or getting stuck, travels along steep grade with ease due to the low center of gravity, etc with the other that can actually push snow, doesn't get stuck in 4 inches of snow, is much heavier duty in almost every aspect and you see what I mean. Everything's a trade off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V95e-sMQTL8